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Old 04-29-2015, 10:42 PM   #31
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Find an old Eclipse/Laser/Talon or even an old Shadow hood damaged in the junk yard w/ the "power dome" - raised area on passenger side to clear the dual overhead cam (4G63) engine. Cut the dome out and install it like you were going to do the scoop. Unless its a BMW owner, most people won't realize it's not stock! Just a thought
Not a bad idea, i used to have a 96 Mits- Eclipse, engine was like swiss cheese. rebuilt twice, if i still had the card then that would be easy. I actually found a fiberglass bump online somewhere, but i kind of like the idea of the cowl reversed scoop.

I can actually shut the hood but the driver side sits up about a 1/4 inch higher than the fender. I havent tried to adjust anything yet though.

Anybody have any thoughts on the bypass valve?
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Old 04-29-2015, 10:49 PM   #32
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That may be more than 1/4" once the engine flexes under power!
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Old 04-29-2015, 11:24 PM   #33
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That may be more than 1/4" once the engine flexes under power!
Didnt even think about that, you know when the car sits for over a year in the same place you kind of forget it actually goes places and that things move around. looks like time to order a hood scoop.
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Old 05-01-2015, 10:05 AM   #34
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Here is a small update, I worked on the Throttle body plate adapter this morning, its almost ready for welding. Ill probably have it done tomorrow morning (i usually work on the car in the early morning before i head to the gym.)

This is the Plate after initial drilling
Attachment 15542

Here it is with the final shape cut into it and deburred/round the edge.
Attachment 15543


Then i rummaged around the garage and found some left over 2.5" crush bent exhaust pipe that i cut at a drastic angle to reach the pipe going to the supercharger inlet.
Attachment 15544

The plate looks really long, but i plan on bending part of the bottom to connect with the airbox anchor tabs that are in the engine bay to assist in holding the throttle in place. Ill add another picture tomorrow to show how its all connected.
I decided on the chromoly steel one just out of "potential" durability. I have not used the AC with my flywheel though, because i recently snapped the threaded tab off the condenser bracket. Any issues with using LTW flywheel +AC? Rattle or slip?

Last edited by midomidi2013; 05-01-2015 at 10:07 AM.
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Old 05-01-2015, 01:48 PM   #35
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I run a 9# chromoly flywheel on my WRX, never had any issues w/ accessory drive. I even run underdrive pulleys on everything but a/c w/o issue.
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Old 05-11-2015, 11:54 PM   #36
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Great write-up! If I ever go to a bigger supercharger I'll be pouring over your pictures for ideas! I had no problem going to a light weight flywheel (lower rotational mass helps acceleration). Idle might be slightly less even & a heavier duty clutch will engage a bit rougher, but I don't even notice it anymore Stock Transmission& clutch is ok for up to maybe 160 to 180 hp? Oh! I would upgrade your injectors higher than 20 lbs or else keep boost psi & horsepower low to start! The last thing you want to do is to run lean under boost (pre-detonation can damage engine) I have the same engine as JohnBoy (MM2100 FI) running 14 psi boost & I have 42 lb injectors. That size injector is a little over kill for me (I'm only at about 260 hp). Stock injectors were 18 lb if I remember correctly?, and the Downing Atlanta stage 3 kit used 28 lb injectors? Here's a sample calculator: http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/flow-calculator
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Old 05-12-2015, 04:02 PM   #37
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Oops, I read too fast; you're using the rising rate fuel pressure (from a stage 1 DA SC kit?) That will increase pressure under boost and get more out of your 20lb injectors. The stage 3 kit if I remember correctly, gets rid of the RRFP gizmo entirely and instead just uses 28 lb injectors. The advantage of using bigger injectors is that when you go open loop (boosted hard acceleration), then the open loop "maps" already in the computer will now be "magnified" by the ratio of your new injector poundage relative to the stock (18 lb) injectors. The stock fuel pump works fine at 28 lbs. but if you push the envelope of the M62, eventually you'll want more flow rate than the stock fuel pump can deliver If I remember correctly, Metric mechanic put in a Ford Mustang fuel pump in my car (drop in fit apparently) to increase flow rate, but you probably won't need that until you get well over 200hp. (a Wide band O2 sensor can help keep an eye on how lean or rich you're going under boost)
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:16 PM   #38
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Flux, thanks for your posts! This is my first FI build, so your input is much appreciated! I am in the "tuning" stage, i know you cant really tune with an RRFPR and i hope to get MS one day. I finally got my 5-15 psi spring from forge and i removed the low profile 90' coupler on the intake/back of supercharger, it was getting sucked in to the point of not sealing at idle. I instead Fiberglassed a new 90 with pieces of intercooler pipe and West Marine G-Flex so the glass will move with the aluminum under heat. the difference is huge. The car idles great, and i am able to drive it around fine. It pulls much better than stock but i am running into a small issue. Whenever i Blip the throttle or tentatively crawl with my foot lightly on the gas the engine revs then bogs down and stalls. i can "nurse" the pedal a little and keep if from stalling but i can just imagine pulling my hair out in traffic. I Think it may be: TPS (didnt have an issue before build, but who knows) Fuel pump dying? (stock since i have owned car at 40,000. Now at 120,000) RRFPR not adjusted correctly(i don't have an Wideband yet) Muffler not connected/airleak? (crappy homemade muffler-Temporary) Boost leak/vacuum leak- tested some areas but need to see for sure Any comments or experiences that could knock any of these off the list or validate them?
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:33 PM   #39
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If you want real power do a Nick G stage 3. It will have 30# injectors with EV-1 style adapters plus you install a 1995 3" MAF from a M3 or 528i, must be a 1995 for direct plug and play. The DME will be flashed with a new tune and all you need is a smaller pulley on the SC from Pulley Boys and you will be flying.

I ran a Walbro fuel pump and it was good for little over 500hp 28psi and meth shot

Last edited by xxxJohnBoyxxx; 05-12-2015 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 05-12-2015, 10:20 PM   #40
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Quote:
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If you want real power do a Nick G stage 3. It will have 30# injectors with EV-1 style adapters plus you install a 1995 3" MAF from a M3 or 528i, must be a 1995 for direct plug and play. The DME will be flashed with a new tune and all you need is a smaller pulley on the SC from Pulley Boys and you will be flying.

I ran a Walbro fuel pump and it was good for little over 500hp 28psi and meth shot
Yeah, i think the fuel pump should probably be swapped anyway, i am pushing it for how old it is now. i should probably test the TPS just to be sure.

Do you think Nick's tuning would still work even though my build is somewhat different than the DASC? I have an intercooler and different Intake manifold. I wonder if this would affect the tune?


As for a pulley, i cannot source anything off the shelf, the supercharger i have is the Mercedes M62, and is not keyed like a standard Eaton Charger.
I called Pulleyboys, but they didnt have any splined pulleys, mostly keyed.


Mine has a 26 spline shaft, the only pulley i could find that would fit is an A/C pulley from a 528i. This particular SC had a Clutched pulley, but i welded the A/C clutch pulley together and bolted to the Shaft and have it hooked up like a traditional SC, with a bypass valve to reroute the air at idle.


John, you have any thoughts on the stall after touching the throttle?
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Old 05-12-2015, 10:29 PM   #41
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Something like this had my thoughts for awhile:

http://www.sdp-si.com/web/html/newprdshafts2.htm

its a spline to keyway adapter, but they get pricey, then to buy a pulley. Probably just as much as if i just went and had a pulley made.

This was the biggest dilemma i ran into during the build. Actually still looking for a good smaller pulley. Alot of the Mercedes tuners ran into this problem and had to resort to a smaller crank shaft pulley.

Though, i just thought of this, my SC is driven off a pulley i have attached to my PS pump, i Could just find another smaller pulley that would run fit my PS pump and not touch the PS pulley.
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Old 05-26-2015, 10:58 PM   #42
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Ok.... so still working on the stalling problem, I found one of my temporary vacuum caps on my aftermarket Vacuum manifold was cracked and allowing un metered air in. I capped this port for future use of a VDO boost gauge.

Unfortunately my daily drivers battery died and i had to steal the battery from my ti, (between payday) so i haven't had the chance to see if this little fix ultimately fixed my stalling between rev/idle problem.

I will be getting a new battery this weekend.

But before i found the vacuum cap, I was thinking my problem was fuel related because the car just dies right after a slight tap of the pedal. Which made me think my RRFPR was to blame, because it idles fine, drives fine, but once i just let off the gas it just dies without the throttle being "nursed" back to idle.

i noticed that my "supposed" BEGi RRFPR looked way different than any i have seen online. See photos:
Attached Thumbnails
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Last edited by TheDude; 05-26-2015 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:13 PM   #43
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I emailed Stephanie over at BEGi for some help, she asked for photos, but i haven't heard back after that. She has been very willing to help though.

I noticed that ALL of the other RRFPRs have a Signal input barb, base fuel pressure adjustment, needle valve and either a check valve hanging on the end second vacuum line or a barb built into the needle valve to connect a vacuum line with check valve.

Mine does have a restrictor in place of where the 2nd barb would be, and from what i have read, the restrictor allows a small amount of air to move both in and out depending on the pressure the RRFPR is operating in. Where a check valve allows only air to exit.

I have limited knowledge of how the RRFPR operates so my description of the components above may not be totally correct.

So my question is, can i (should i) simply remove the restrictor and tap the hole and insert a barb w/ 1 way check valve?

Any thoughts?

Last edited by TheDude; 05-26-2015 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 05-28-2015, 01:06 AM   #44
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Oh! stock fuel pump is fine for well over 300 hp. All the stock replacement pumps for the 318 are rated for over 45 gph. (Gas is a little over 7 lbs/gallon, so 45X7 = 315 lb/hr)
Even if you went up to massive 42 lb/hr injectors (good for way over 300hp), you would only be using 42x4 = 168 lb/hr total
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Old 05-28-2015, 01:18 AM   #45
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Re rough idle, I'd check for vacuum leaks foist (spray brake cleaner near potential leaks to see if it speeds up?) & then take off the idle valve & spray brake cleaner through it to make sure it isn't gunked up (avoid wd40 like the plague; it will dry out & gunk up!). I once had a pinched wire for the tps that screwed up the idle too. Had a flakey connector for the idle valve once too. (wiggle wires/connectors while it's running to rule those out) It's usually a vacuum leak tho.
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