Strut help plz ...

[wsp8]

I’m in the middle of replacing the struts on my ’95 318ti. Everything’s came off okay (okay, maybe a few busted knuckles!), all cleaned and resprayed, but the new assembled strut seems about 1 ½” longer than the previous unit. I’m replacing the (stock @ 177K?) originals with Bilstein’s heavy-duty unit strut from Bavarian Auto. I selected these over the adjustable ones, because I understood they re-used the stock springs. Maybe not?

Also, as the new piston rod is significantly larger in diameter I didn’t reuse the original bump stop and collar. Is it okay to not use them?

Thanks for any ideas/thoughts!

[wsp8]

Well, I tried the right side tonight and same problem. I took pics this time, though.

Note that two of the bolts at the bearing are on, but the third cannot be installed because the bottom mount is waaaay below where it should be, so the bottom ball joint is in the way. See how the bottom of the same assembly is almost below the bottom of the rotor!

Compare the original shock (as fully extended as I could get it by hand) and the new assembled one. The new one is probably four inches taller.

BTW, I cross-checked the model #'s with the Bilstein site and they match.

Ideas?? What am I doing wrong?

[CirrusSR22]

Yes, the Bilstein HD's are for use with the stock springs. You're gonna need to put your jack under the strut and start compressing it up. Make sure the 3 strut bearing studs get seated before you put too much pressure on it. I'd also take the nuts off the other two while you fight it. You might bend some sheet metal if you don't.

Getting those bottom holes to line up does take some serious grunt. The lateral bolt is the toughest if I remember correctly. Stick a stout srewdriver in there to get the spindle hole to line up with the strut hole. You'll need it for leverage.

Also, make sure you unbolt the front sway bar from the control arm. That should help the control arm drop a little more.