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Old 09-19-2018, 09:38 AM   #211
paul somlo
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Finally got my projectors installed - now I need to aim them.

How does the leveling motor interact with the manual adjustment on the back? Does the range of motion on one overlap the other? Do I need to remove the leveling motor to do manual adjustment?
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Old 09-25-2018, 10:27 PM   #212
paul somlo
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I'll answer the above post, now that I've taken apart the lights and understand how they work. This is specific to my Bosch projectors, but I suspect the ZKW may be similar.

The leveling motors need to be installed, as they form the lower pivot point for the entire reflector assembly - without the motor, the other two adjustments will not work properly. The ball on the end of the leveling motor actuator fits into a channel with a circular cross section near the bottom of the reflector assembly. The leveling motor needs to be fully extended, while the reflector assembly needs to be fully retracted to engage the ball in the channel. This will prove to be helpful if you remove your leveling motor. When installed in this fashion, nothing more need be done with the leveling motor - all adjustment takes place using the two adjusters on the case of the headlight assembly.

The adjuster closest to the center of the headlight is responsible for cutoff height, while the other adjuster is responsible for lateral movement. Turning the female hex (6mm) adjusters clockwise, either lowers the cutoff, or moves the beam laterally towards the center of the vehicle. Internally, the adjuster consists of a fine pitch metal screw threaded into plastic. Go too far CW, and you lose engagement - you may have to open up the case to reengage the screw and the plastic. Go too far CCW, and you run the risk of stripping the plastic threads - you'll feel it bottom out, don't force it past this point.

By the way, the adjusters where the headlights mount on the vehicle - those are not meant for beam adjustment; they're only responsible for cosmetics; that is, how the headlight sits with regard to the hood and nosepiece.
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Old 09-25-2018, 11:37 PM   #213
paul somlo
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A few posts back, I asked about wiring harnesses. I did some research, and just wasn't hearing very good things regarding the quality of commonly available 9005/9006 pigtails. And at $3.99 for two pigtails (including shipping), I was a skeptic. So, I decided to make my own, using OEM (Aptiv - formerly Delphi Packard) parts, seals, terminals, and TPA (terminal position assurance - which keeps the terminals from backing out).

It was surprisingly difficult to track down part numbers and even identifying the connector family (Metri-pack 280) was a challenge, not having any experience with automotive connector systems. I found two sources - Ballenger Motorsports and Mouser. Ballenger's pricing is fairly high, but they do provide the option of doing the crimping for you, providing a completed pigtail. It appears they use OEM parts, as well. As an aside, what's typically referred to as a 9006 female connector is Aptiv PN 12059181, while the 9005 is Aptiv PN 12059183.

I chose to order from Mouser, and do my own crimping. I crimped directly to the round OEM connector that Kitty provided, adding wire only to provide a separate ground to each pigtail. For the ground, I soldered the three wires together and used an uninsulated crimp for insurance, finishing with a closed end heatshinkable cap. My preference would have been something like this: https://www.electriduct.com/HydraLin...onnectors.html but I couldn't find them locally, and I didn't want to incur any more shipping charges. The two additional wires can be 18 AWG.

Here's a parts list, from my Mouser.com invoice, cost was about $14 for the four pigtails, and about $5 economy shipping, crimpers were about $23:

12084166-B Male Connector, mates with 9006 female, qty 2
12084167-B Male Connector, mates with 9005 female, qty 2
12059185-B TPA, qty 4
12048159-L Male Terminals, qty 12 (min)
15324985 Cable Seals (purple), qty 8
ES-CAP-NO.2-B9-0-30MM Heat Shrinkable Cap, qty 2 (choose dia. according to your wiring method)

Crimpers: SG Toolaid 18910, cheapest price was ebay, through JB Tool Sales: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SG-Tool-Aid...72.m2749.l2649
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Last edited by paul somlo; 09-29-2018 at 12:57 AM. Reason: add PN for female 9005 and 9006 connectors
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Old 09-25-2018, 11:58 PM   #214
paul somlo
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I'll add this info, for completeness - in case you don't receive the round OEM connector with your headlights. This was posted by user "Bluptgm3" on bimmerforums.com, who attributes the source as www.topquark.net:

The plug to connect to the European headlights is the same as the plug for the MAF - BMW Part 61131392222 (you will need to order one for each headlight).
The plug doesn't come with pin contacts in it, so you will need to order those as well - they are BMW Part 61130007571 (you will need to order 8 - 4 for each plug).

(61130007571 is a standard 1.0x2.5mm pin contact (available alone as BMW Part 61130007450) with a grommet (available alone as BMW Part 61131382195) around it (picture - the top one is 61130007571, the bottom one is 61130007450) - to save some money, you could instead buy the 1.0x2.5mm pin contacts from an electronics shop, and buy only the grommets from BMW, or skip the grommets altogether)

The rubber cover ("Protection Cap") for the plug is BMW Part 12521713508 (you will need to order one for each headlight). This part doesn't appear anywhere on realoem.com (only a similar but much larger cover is listed - BMW Part 12521719733), but it is available from bmwautopartsdealer.com.
The (male) plugs to connect to the existing (female) plugs on the car's wiring harness are standard 9006 (low beam) and 9005 (high beam) connectors.


Through communication with AMP, I did find out that this connector is a special that they made for BMW - they are the sole source. The terminals are fairly expensive, but they do include the crimped wire and seal. AMP indicates that terminal 929975-1 is compatible with the round OEM connector - I haven't personally confirmed this, but it would probably lead to a cheaper source than BMW.
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