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Old 10-10-2014, 12:09 AM   #46
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Small update. Safety wired the oil pump nut.
Available here.



The Z3 Coupe donated its old lower control arm bushing brackets. The old bushings were swapped for a new set of AKG race urethane bushings. Available here.



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Old 10-10-2014, 01:25 AM   #47
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The pump reverse thread? Because if it's not your safety wire is not doing squat. It looks pretty though.
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Old 10-10-2014, 04:01 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-technik-3 View Post
The pump reverse thread? Because if it's not your safety wire is not doing squat. It looks pretty though.
It is reverse thread. Have some confidence!
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Old 10-10-2014, 02:07 PM   #49
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I had forgotten, and many don't know how to safety wire properly so hence while I asked.

i spot welded mine last time.
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Old 10-10-2014, 04:30 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-technik-3 View Post
I had forgotten, and many don't know how to safety wire properly so hence while I asked.

i spot welded mine last time.
Spot welds work too. Learning to safety wire is not difficult. A sufficient tool and a spool of safety wire can be had for under 20 bucks. Spend about an hour safety wiring everything you can find and you will have the hang of it.
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Old 10-12-2014, 09:53 PM   #51
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You'd be amazed at how many fail to grasp it. I see it it out on the line alot.
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Old 10-23-2014, 03:12 PM   #52
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When I bought the car it came with vaders. I do not find vaders comfortable so I sold them.



With the vaders gone I needed somewhere to sit. Since this car will serve mainly as a track car, a fixed back race seat is ultimately the best solution. The cost of race seats, brackets, harnesses, sliders and mounts can add up quickly. This is a budget minded build, so another solution was needed. I searched for a set of 318ti sport seats and just about gave up on that when I stumbled upon a full blue mill-point interior (I also have a pet unicorn)!



This interior is in amazing shape. It was removed from a right hand drive car so the seat I will be using as the drivers seat is nearly perfect. I have no delusions about this being an ideal set up for a track car but it will work for now.

Some may be interested to know that the manual vaders weigh significantly more than the stock 318ti sport seats. Unfortunately I did not weigh them both but I moved the vaders around several times over the past month and I was surprised by the light weight of the ti sport seat.
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Old 10-28-2014, 08:10 PM   #53
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Refinished the stock grills. They were weathered but all the clips were in good shape. I was shooting for BMW's frozen grey finish on the rings.



Scored a set of TRM wheels in 17x8.5. They came with a set of well worn RS3's in 245.40.17.

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Old 11-09-2014, 01:28 AM   #54
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Like the TRM wheels, what's the offset? high 30's or low 40's?
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Old 11-09-2014, 02:17 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-technik-3 View Post
Like the TRM wheels, what's the offset? high 30's or low 40's?
ET 40.
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Old 11-09-2014, 03:24 PM   #56
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So the fit flush on the wheel wells. Decent wheel for the cost new. $145 and 19 lbs is decent. Kosei K1's at 17 lbs are $190 but with a 38 ET they stick out a bit. It was an issue on my silver Ti because of the coilovers would rub so I had to use a 5mm spacer making a bit more exaggerated.
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Old 11-09-2014, 03:34 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M-technik-3 View Post
So the fit flush on the wheel wells. Decent wheel for the cost new. $145 and 19 lbs is decent. Kosei K1's at 17 lbs are $190 but with a 38 ET they stick out a bit. It was an issue on my silver Ti because of the coilovers would rub so I had to use a 5mm spacer making a bit more exaggerated.
I was going to go with a set of squared DS2's but the TRM's are 5 lbs a rim lighter. Not sure where things will end up clearance wise but I have no problem rolling the fenders and it is getting a set of 82mm extended lugs so playing with spacer sizes will be easy.
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Old 11-09-2014, 03:42 PM   #58
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Agree, factory wheels are heavy, I had thought about using my DS1's from my 95 M3 but at 21 lbs a piece they really sapped the M44. So I went back to a lighter 16" wheel.

Now that I have the m52 in there the extra weight is not a major factor but I will still be using something lighter just to make the car a little more enjoyable. I plan to use my Tein coil overs designed for the M3 to take advantage of the swaybar mounts on the strut. The rear I'm not sure what I am going to use yet. What are you planning on using bigger bar or NO bar?
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Old 11-09-2014, 04:03 PM   #59
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The car came with a complete BTS kit for a 328. I am keeping the front struts, swapping the springs for a set of ti H&R race springs and I have already replaced the blown rear shocks with a set of Bilstein Sports for the ti. I am going to run an M Coupe rear bar and a Z3 Coupe (same as a sport ti) front bar along with a strut bar and an x-brace. Swapped 96-99 M3 front strut mounts and offset lower control arm bushings should provide a respectable amount of camber and caster. The rear subframe has the weld in adjusters and AKG race urethane will be used in the diff, subframe and lower control arm bushings.

Eventually I would like to go with a coilover set up, GC's front sway bar and no rear sway bar but the hodgepodge of parts listed above should be OK for a while.
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