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Old 08-12-2009, 06:08 AM   #1
pnosker
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Default Alternator failing?

I was driving home tonight and whenever I put the brakes on, my wired V1 radar detector turned off then on instantly. When I switched from high beams to fog lights (turned highs off), same happened. At one point, all the dash lights turned on (like I just started the ignition). This, coupled with some misfiring I had earlier, sound to me like an alternator failure starting. What do you guys think? Luckily, I have a spare alternator... but it's a pain to replace .

Also, got a Racing Dynamics strut bar (for e36) and it hits the throttle so I can only go 1/2 throttle now. Will take off tomorrow. My body shop guy told me to get one because I have cracking and rust starting on my driver's shock tower.
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Old 08-12-2009, 06:24 AM   #2
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Hey Patrick, I know it's a lot of work, but if you want a driver's strut tower, I'd be more than happy to cut the one off of my m3 donor for you. As for the alternator problem, well since you already have a spare, I'd say swap it out and see if it fixes things.
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Old 08-12-2009, 03:55 PM   #3
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damn. must take care of that rusted tower asap before it gets worse and makes a bigger mess later down the road that'll cost you $$$$$$$$$.

so glad i live in SoCal where i don't have to worry about rust too much here. (knock on wood)
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Old 08-12-2009, 04:27 PM   #4
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Thanks for the offer Jess. It's getting repaired after this sunday's Autocross.
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Old 08-12-2009, 05:13 PM   #5
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after an autox......? wouldn't it make more sense to skip it....
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Old 08-12-2009, 05:36 PM   #6
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Why not test the alt first?

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Old 08-12-2009, 07:52 PM   #7
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After AutoX because its this weekend (I must do it!!) and I have it scheduled for body work on Monday. I was told the cracking won't continue till salt is on the roads anyhow. It's due to corrosion + bending of the driver's shock tower. Going to get another brace (dad will take this one for his M Roadster) soon.
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Old 08-13-2009, 02:34 AM   #8
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that's very similar to what happened to me, replaced the alternator and it was back to normal

iirc the RD strut brace is hinged, right? you could just take the center piece out and leave the ends on to reinforce the shock mount
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Old 08-13-2009, 02:45 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiFreak View Post
that's very similar to what happened to me, replaced the alternator and it was back to normal

iirc the RD strut brace is hinged, right? you could just take the center piece out and leave the ends on to reinforce the shock mount
Those will not do much/anything.

Connecting the towers will stop some flex in the body, not sure how much it will help his issue but its better than nothing.
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Old 08-13-2009, 03:39 AM   #10
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No, it's not the part of the mount that are bolted onto. The part that's rusted is the welds to the body. I know it won't do much to help the handling but the body guy said he's seen tons of cars with bad towers get helped with a bar. It's going to transfer some load to the opposite tower so it does not flex quite as much. It does have a hinge, and I know everyone says hinged bars don't do anything, but I torqued the hinge to 100 ft-lbs and I can guarantee it is going to do something. The hinge is held together by a 3/8ths in. bolt which is torqued a LOT. With it off the car, I couldn't move the bar vs the tower mount at all... and I tried a lot. Anyway, I intend to replace it with another bar that has more clearance around the throttle body/cables. It's such a close fit too... damn DASC! I thought I could fit an E36 bar on .
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Old 08-13-2009, 03:41 AM   #11
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Oh and I tested the alt/battery today and I was getting 14v when the car is on and 12.1 v with it off. That's what I expected. The problem isn't all the time-- it seems to be very erratic. My battery should still have at least 30 months on the warranty left so maybe I can get it replaced for free. 12v seems a little low.
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Old 08-13-2009, 03:42 AM   #12
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The voltage test doesn't say the alternator is working, I don't understand why people say to do it.

Voltage is only half the battle, its the current your alternator is putting out that is the most important.

10 amps at 14V won't help you jack
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Old 08-13-2009, 03:46 AM   #13
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Well it shows it isn't completely busted. Plus, it can tell you if you need new brushes or if the diode system is broken.
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Old 08-13-2009, 01:24 PM   #14
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Pat you might already know this but charge the battery over night then take voltage reading. If it is below 12.6 volts battery is bad....This is a basic check and does not do a load test. After you have a good battery in there then start the car and turn everything on (lights a/c radio, etc) check voltage you might need to rev the motor but you should be able to get into the high 13's to low 14's on volts

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Old 08-13-2009, 02:11 PM   #15
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Just tell Jess to replace your alt. it will only take him 15 minutes.
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