My LC2 Ti (finally!)

[Ragnorak]

How did I miss this thread? I'm a huge boosted 3800 fan. My father had a GNX back in the day and I built a 550 WHP W-Body Grand Prix about 6 years ago. Keep us updated on the swap, this motor is hugely capable.

[1ofakind71]

Update: after figuring out the engine issues I finally got back to business with the install. After laying the engine between the frame rails I discovered that the oil pain will have to be reconfigured as the pan has a center sump setup rather than a rear sump so back to fabrication mode I go!

[Crashaddict]

Originally Posted by 1ofakind71

Update: After checking clearances on the main bearings I found out that the crank would have to be machined. The problem with this is it was already done once before and machining it to .020 under will not work for me so with that, a new crank was needed. Also the pistons were .060 over bore which also sucked because the walls will be to thin and I will not run some good boost with thin cylinder walls like that. It also turns out that the block is a 84-85 block when it was supposed to be a 86-87 block (the latter are stronger) so the expence of buying all new parts is growing quite a bit. There is a silver lining to this tale though, a good friend of mine sold me a complete 87 long block, ready to go for a price I couldnt pass up. So now I can get back to business of putting this engine back together.

I have had many of the same problems as you, I was supposed to get a gen 6 93-95 13b-rew engine but only realized recently when trying to plug in the standalone ecu that it was a series 7 96-98. Not that the 7 is an inferior engine, but I found myself needing to rebuy parts. Just for curiousitys sake, what do you plan to do to the crossmember? For a driveshaft? What rear end will you be using?

[1ofakind71]

The rear end I have is a medium case with a 3.46 gear and LSD, the stock GN rear is a 3.42 so it will work great. I am having a driveshaft shop make up a stronger 2 piece shaft using the GN yoke on one side and the bmw flange on the rear, the rear shaft from the bearing back is the same length and all but a larger diameter and stronger joint, while the trans to bearing is a tad bit longer, bigger diameter and stronger joint.
As for the trans crossmember, I have a temporary piece made up that bolts in the same place of the stock one. If you were talking about the front cradle, so far there hasen't been no mods done to it, i hope I can find an oil pan solution that will require no mods necessary.

[1ofakind71]

Thanks Ragnorak, I always wanted to do this swap to a BMW, I had a 325i I was going to do this to but my neighbor rear-ended it and killed that idea for a while. I also wanted to make a RWD version of the quad cam 3.4, boosted of course, as it still has the 3.1 trans bolt pattern, with a stick shift, but on a g-body cutlass. Hmmm maybe some day....

[Crashaddict]

Originally Posted by 1ofakind71

The rear end I have is a medium case with a 3.46 gear and LSD, the stock GN rear is a 3.42 so it will work great. I am having a driveshaft shop make up a stronger 2 piece shaft using the GN yoke on one side and the bmw flange on the rear, the rear shaft from the bearing back is the same length and all but a larger diameter and stronger joint, while the trans to bearing is a tad bit longer, bigger diameter and stronger joint.
As for the trans crossmember, I have a temporary piece made up that bolts in the same place of the stock one. If you were talking about the front cradle, so far there hasen't been no mods done to it, i hope I can find an oil pan solution that will require no mods necessary.

I did the same. thing with my driveshaft, A Mazda Yoke to a BMW flange, although i had to special order an adapter from california. I went with the one piece, i feel like the length is short enough for that to work just as well. Have you gotten an estimate on the shaft yet?

[1ofakind71]

Yep, $325 for both pieces, I dont think it is too bad concidering I had one made for a 77 century and that was $300.

[Crashaddict]

Originally Posted by 1ofakind71

Yep, $325 for both pieces, I dont think it is too bad concidering I had one made for a 77 century and that was $300.

Well that's a whole lot cheaper than I paid, have any pics? Is it an all new assembly? Or are there parts being reused

[1ofakind71]

It's an all new assembly that I am still waiting for from the shop. I will post pics when I receive it. I hope it all works out because this swap has had more delays than I care to remember, lol

[Crashaddict]

Originally Posted by 1ofakind71

It's an all new assembly that I am still waiting for from the shop. I will post pics when I receive it. I hope it all works out because this swap has had more delays than I care to remember, lol

haha i feel your pain...look at the start date of my swap thread LOL

[1ofakind71]

Well after delays and more delays, I have a week to get back into the swing of things on my swap. Pics to follow soon

[1ofakind71]

After trying many different ways of not modding the front cradle to fit this center sumped oil panned engine in the car, I had to change things up a bit.
I turned to the guys at the rod and custom shop for ideas and they notched the oil pan, subframe and modded the headers.

[1ofakind71]

After a bit more wrench time, I ended up getting the engine and trans in place

[ti-billy]

This is way too awesome!

[1ofakind71]

Well just a bit of an update, I currently have the ti at the exhaust shop getting the downpipe made up. After that I will finish up the wiring and fire it up!