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Old 09-04-2010, 07:46 PM   #1
Trusted-1
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Default ///BMW 318 & Z3 Dual Mass Flywheel & Clutch Kit - $282

SOLD!! Thanks for Looking!

For Sale is a Very Low Mileage BMW 318/Z3 Dual Mass Flywheel, Pressure Plate and clutch disk (check the receipt below).

This dual mass flywheel costs almost $1000 at the dealer.

This part will fit all 91-92 E30 & 92-99 E36 318 cars and Z3s with the M42 or M44 4 cylinder engines

See http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref....eur=&details=1

I upgraded my 318 to a lightweight flywheel and Stage 2 clutch and these near new parts are leftover from the upgrade.
They were only in the car about 12K miles and you can see there is very little wear on the disk and you can still see the original machining on the flywheel surface.

If you need a clutch in your 318 and the flywheel needs to be surfaced, do yourself a favor and buy these parts and save yourself some cash.




Last edited by Trusted-1; 02-27-2011 at 01:38 AM. Reason: SOLD
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Old 09-04-2010, 08:23 PM   #2
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K...how much?
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Old 09-04-2010, 10:11 PM   #3
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Thanks for checking in.

I have it listed locally on craigslist too for $282. Plus some shipping to PA

Thanks, Steve
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Old 09-07-2010, 01:08 AM   #4
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Hi trusted-1, Did you install your upgraded clutch yourself?
If you don't mind, I have a few questions on your setup.

What parts did you use on your upgrade? Mine is a larger 240mm M3 size conversion, but strangely, something is hitting (I think flywheel bolts) when the clutch gets disengaged. The sprung hub (M5/6) I'm using is flipped backward into the machined hollow of the Fidanza M3 flywheel. The disk wont fit if it's not flipped, as it will hit the M3 pressure plate.

I'd appreciate it if you can share some tips.

Thanks.

-Joe.
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Old 09-07-2010, 03:45 AM   #5
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Not sure about the disk your running but I used:
Fidanza 18 pound M3 flywheel (might have been 13 pound).
New Sachs M3 disk and pressure plate.
A new OEM M3 release fork, throwout bearing, plastic pivot, pilot bearing and slave cylinder along with a new rear main seal dot 4 brake fluid and some blue locktite rounded out the parts list.

This is all still pretty overkill for an M44 but since you need to run the M3 parts to get the light weight flywheel anyway it should be plenty stout.

I found and installed a DASC after the flywheel clutch install and it still has great grip with no sign of slipping even on autocross days with multiple full romp starts. I have a 3.25 medium case LSD that will go in soon, hopefully before the 3.45 gives up...
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Old 09-07-2010, 03:55 PM   #6
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Very nice...

I went with a M5/6 disk because it was sprung... are you using an unsprung M3 disk? I've been thinking about this, and I think the problem might be with the bolts that came with the Fidanza flywheel. The heads might be a tad taller than oem, thus hitting once the disk spins at a different speed than the flywheel (when it's released). If you are running an unsprung disk, you'd have no issues with clearance... I guess I'll find out once the tranny comes off again.

Do you have any pics of your car? I'm in South Bay area (Torrance). I also have a DASC (TT stage2)... and just installed a small case 3.64 LSD. Hope it holds up ok. The small case is supposed to be about 20#'s lighter, but may be at it's max limit. If it goes, I'm planning to move up to a med case (would like to find a torsen LSD though).

Thanks for the tip~

-Joe
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Old 09-10-2010, 03:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trusted-1 View Post
Not sure about the disk your running but I used:
Fidanza 18 pound M3 flywheel (might have been 13 pound).
New Sachs M3 disk and pressure plate.
A new OEM M3 release fork, throwout bearing, plastic pivot, pilot bearing and slave cylinder along with a new rear main seal dot 4 brake fluid and some blue locktite rounded out the parts list.

This is all still pretty overkill for an M44 but since you need to run the M3 parts to get the light weight flywheel anyway it should be plenty stout.

I found and installed a DASC after the flywheel clutch install and it still has great grip with no sign of slipping even on autocross days with multiple full romp starts. I have a 3.25 medium case LSD that will go in soon, hopefully before the 3.45 gives up...
Please list the parts that you used for the change over. I want to do the same thing...Does it work?
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Old 09-10-2010, 04:14 AM   #8
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Edwin,

Here are the parts I used, but I just have to figure out the tapping issue.

-Fidanza lightweight flywheel #195321 (E36 M3) 13.5 lbs. ($400)
(You can use a JBR flywheel, which is a sure combo, but it costs $530)
-Sachs sprung clutch disk: SD772 (E34 M5/M6) $210
-Sachs Pressure plate: SC778 $160 <--- this might be the incorrect part (it's a '95, but a '96-99 E36 M3 pressure plate is recommended.)

You can also just get a complete E34 M5 clutch kit $380 (disk and pressure plate) with any ltw FW. This setup has been "proven" on M3 forums.


Some other extras I also picked up:
-E36 M3 clutch slave (claimed to have a bigger bore, for less pedal effort)
-E36 M3 Throw out bearing, clutch fork, and pivot pin
-TOB guide tube and input shaft seal
-Rear main seal
-new pilot bearing
-new shifter bushings + delrin oval shifter bushing


Hope this helps~
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Old 09-10-2010, 03:42 PM   #9
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Joe,

I think maybe I also used the 13 pound Fidanza flywheel. The box still hase the Dual Mass in it so I can check.

The pressure plate and disk on my install were standard Sachs parts for a 96 M3 but I don't recall if the disk was sprung or not (although I don't recall ever installing one without springs).

From what I have read about the M5 pressure plates, the additional weight adds to the flywheel mass so if you go for one of those they typically use a lighter (say 8 pound?) flywheel to compensate for the additional spinning mass.

In your installation, if you flipped the M5 sprung disk so the spring assembly is on the flywheel side to make it fit, then I can see how the clearance may be too tight on the flywheel bolts.

I have never seen a disk installed with the spring assembly towards the flywheel. I did not even think it would bolt up that way.

I used the existing bolts in my installation with new loctite and torqued to spec. I know I have seen to use new bolts but I asked a seasoned BMW mechanic who builds S14 race cars and he said it was not necessary.

I bought my Fidanza open box for $150 and there were no bolts with it. Did yours come with bolts?
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Old 09-10-2010, 05:28 PM   #10
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Trusted-1... thanks for the info!


You got a killer deal on your FW. Anyway, the problem "might" be that I was sent a '95 M3 pressure plate. I don't quite know the difference yet, but putting all the information I've got together in the last few days, using a '96-99 M3 pressure plate might be the key.

As for the FW bolts, yea, you can reuse them if they are fine. If they've been torqued down 4-5 times, I'd probably look into new ones, but no biggie for now... and yes, definitely use loctite!

Hmm, I still have to re-measure the length oem FW bolts, but looking back at some pics I took of the FW's, I think the oem bolts might be longer for the DMF. The Fidanza FW is machined out in the center and can allow the sprung hub to fit in there... it's just a matter of hub to FW bolt clearance. And yes, the Fidanza FW came w/ new bolts... but strangely, no washers or "plate". The bolts just bolt straight onto the aluminum FW. All my past FW's had some sort of washer or plate to protect the aluminum. I guess this would also make the clearance issue worse though.

I also have to replace my M3 slave... Something seems wrong with... but anyway, is it possible to hyper extend the slave and push the TOB bracket too much? Sometimes, I think about the frequency of the "hitting" sound, and I sometimes doubt the flywheel bolts would sound like that (since they are so close together). Is it possible for the TOB bracket to hit the rivets on the pressure plate? That kind of spacing seems to fit the sound I'm hearing.

Last edited by JP422; 09-10-2010 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 10-30-2010, 08:16 PM   #11
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One thing that I did not previously mention is that with the light weight flywheel, the transmission input shaft and gear clusters "rattle" at idle with the clutch released. It is loud enough that the car next to you at the stop light can hear it and the car sounds like there is something wrong unless you know that this is normal operation.

Since the ti is my Wife's DD, she is bugged by this but has gotten used to it. For some, this may be a good reason to stay with the Dual Mass unit...

Last edited by Trusted-1; 11-02-2010 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:52 PM   #12
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Well, I was able to solve my clutch setup issues... and currently it is perfect. Just the right pedal pressure, not chatter, no noise, good grab, etc.

The issue I had w/ something hitting was the shop sent me a '95 PP, but I needed a '96 PP. The difference is in the pressure plate's fingers. The '96-99 have raised fingers. Basically, my release fork was going too far in and hitting the PP's outer housing. The shop immediately sent me the proper PP and everything was perfect since then.

As for the M5 disk, it's a good option because it is a sprung hub, and it can only fit backward when using a M3 PP. The aftermarket FW's are machined out to accept this. If I were to use the M5 disk AND PP, then I could install the disk in any direction, it wont matter... but like mentioned above, the M5 PP is in fact heavier. Anyway, I have none of the chattering or noise you described, at idle, etc. I do hear a very subtle clacking noise when I am disengaging the clutch at slow speeds when moving... like when I slow down to crawl over a speed bump... but if I release the clutch even slower, then there's no sounds. Overall, it's very acceptable.
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:59 PM   #13
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Did you ever sell this? I may be interested in it, if not. Thanks!
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