Front wheel bearing unit replacement

[bazar01]

Got a few questions to prep the work. The car is in Atlanta and 3 hours away so I cannot measure and confirm parts I need. The passenger side is making a rumbling noise when braking and turning.

1. What is the size of the big hex nut? Do I have to replace this?
2. Do I need an impact wrench to break this loose?
3. Autozone has the bearing assembly unit for like $70. Has anybody tried this and have any experience to share?
4. Can I remove the dust cap without tearing it up?
5. What else am I missing?

Thanks

[1996 328ti]

Are you just replacing the bearings and not the entire hub?

[bimmern00b]

1. 46mm and YES!!!! Never ever do you reuse this nut.

2. I would use a long breaker bar instead

3. That's about ballpark, but check with getbmwparts.com or pelicanparts.com too, ya never know.

4. you can, but don't count on it. get that dust cap and the inner one as well

5. Read this: http://www.e36-tech.com/forum/diy-fr...ment-2151.html

6. get yourself a Posi-lock 3 jaw puller. that inner race is a PITA if it is left on the spindle. If the inner race does stay on the spindle, watch this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qx9X6...eature=related

That nut is torqued to 214 ft./lbs. according to the Bentley manual, so ya gotta work it!

P.S. You have to change the hub because the bearing is integrated into the hub.

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by 1996 328ti

Are you just replacing the bearings and not the entire hub?

the whole assembly that is why I called it the bearing assembly unit.

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by bimmern00b

1. 46mm and YES!!!! Never ever do you reuse this nut.

2. I would use a long breaker bar instead

3. That's about ballpark, but check with getbmwparts.com or pelicanparts.com too, ya never know.

4. you can, but don't count on it. get that dust cap and the inner one as well

5. Read this: http://www.e36-tech.com/forum/diy-fr...ment-2151.html

6. get yourself a Posi-lock 3 jaw puller. that inner race is a PITA if it is left on the spindle. If the inner race does stay on the spindle, watch this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qx9X6...eature=related

That nut is torqued to 214 ft./lbs. according to the Bentley manual, so ya gotta work it!

P.S. You have to change the hub because the bearing is integrated into the hub.

Thanks.

If it is torqued to 214 ft-lbs, no problem, my 964 is torqued to 350 ft-lbs so I have to use a 4 foot cheater bar and a 250 ft-lb torque wrench. I have an assortment of bearing puller and if the inner race is stuck on the spindle, I just usually cut it with a Dremmel and whack it til it breaks without damaging the spindle. Once it breaks, I can slide it out easy.

Yes I am replacing the whole bearing assembly unit with the hub.

So I have to get the lock nut, dust caps and hub and bearing assembly.

Thanks.

[zoner]

After installing the M3 front end a couple of weeks back, I've noticed that my right front bearing is shot and I'll need to replace the hub assemblies.

Pelican lists a FAG hub assembly for ~$125 and an SKF hub assembly for ~$89. I've used both brands on other cars and never had a problem with either. For this application, does anyone have a preference? Is the FAG assembly worth the extra $36? I'm wondering where the Autozone ones are sourced- sometimes their import parts are sourced from name brands, just repackaged.

[spidertri]

I heard very good things about FAG and SKF, I don't think you can go wrong with either.

I recently helped my brother change his wheel bearings and we went to autozone and picked up a bearing in timken packaging. On the bearing race it was stamped NSK, I was happy to see that. If your local Autozone has them in stock just ask to look at them, if it is a reputable brand the manufacturer will be stamped on the bearing.

[bimmern00b]

Originally Posted by zoner

After installing the M3 front end a couple of weeks back, I've noticed that my right front bearing is shot and I'll need to replace the hub assemblies.

Pelican lists a FAG hub assembly for ~$125 and an SKF hub assembly for ~$89. I've used both brands on other cars and never had a problem with either. For this application, does anyone have a preference? Is the FAG assembly worth the extra $36? I'm wondering where the Autozone ones are sourced- sometimes their import parts are sourced from name brands, just repackaged.

Having used parts from other manufacturers I have no problem with them but I tend to use them only when I have no other choice. So far I have stuck with Genuine BMW or OEM parts with the exception of a Purolator air filter that I just installed. I usually check prices between Tischer, Pelican Parts, Turner, and ECS Tuning, or look up people that specialize in BMW parts on Ebay. I needed to replace one hub and found out that the one I was replacing was made by Koyo, a Japanese company that has the bearings made in China, so I opted to get the FAG hubs instead.

[bazar01]

Finally got the car back from Atlanta to work on the front wheel hub assembly. Went to Autozone and bought the hub assembly for $77.00. Time to find a 46mm socket !!!

[bazar01]

Found a 1-7/8" standard socket and was able to break loose the axle nut. Got the caliper and rotor off. Will pull the hub assembly tonight. Any surprises? I need to get this car running by Thursday. Thanks.

[familytruckster]

Shouldn't be....I just did mine over the weekend. Really easy. About 20 minutes to do one side.

[bazar01]

Got the wheel bearing out of the spindle.
The inner race separated from the bearing and was left in the spindle. Took out the propane torch, heated the inner race to expand the ID, then I just used a hook to pull the inner race out. It came out easy.

Before installing the new hub, I cooled the spindle with left-over R134, the hub went in to the spindle really easy. Installed the spindle nut and tighten by hand, ooops, the hub won't turn, it was rubbing on the inside of the spindle. CAme to find out, the Autozone huib does not have the groove in the back to accept the inner metal shield. I ended up taking out new hub back out, took out the inner metal shield and reinstalled the new hub. It spun free.

So the Autozone hub is not a direct replacement. You have to take out the inner metal shield. Hope this helps.

[bmorekirby]

How many miles are on the car? My front drivers side bearing went up on me and I havent even hit 100k yet.

[bimmern00b]

Originally Posted by bazar01

(snipped)
CAme to find out, the Autozone huib does not have the groove in the back to accept the inner metal shield. I ended up taking out new hub back out, took out the inner metal shield and reinstalled the new hub. It spun free.

So the Autozone hub is not a direct replacement. You have to take out the inner metal shield. Hope this helps.

Not to say that you cannot get away with doing that, but BMW did put that there for a reason and it may not be a good idea. You were possibly sold the wrong part and you should correct that. As the G-man would say, "Be prepared for unforeseen consequences..."

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by bimmern00b

Not to say that you cannot get away with doing that, but BMW did put that there for a reason and it may not be a good idea. You were possibly sold the wrong part and you should correct that. As the G-man would say, "Be prepared for unforeseen consequences..."

Thanks for the concern. Been around bearings a long time in plant maintenance, and I believe the Autozone will do good even with the BMW metal shield off. The bearing used has a rubber seal on both sides and it is designed to be water tight. The metal shield anyway has a big clearance and is not even in contact with the bearing so it will not prevent water from getting inside the spindle area. The ABS reluctor wheel on the hub has same dimensions and it did not trigger the ABS fault. We'll see how long the hub bearing will last.