Z3 - Seeking feedback

[Severian]

Hey guys, I was wondering if I could ask for your advice. My wife and I are starting to shop around the indianapolis area for another BMW. I found this Z3 listed at cars.com. Many of you are more experienced buyers than I am, and I'd appreciate your ideas about what we should keep in mind when buying our second BMW. For example:

* Do Z3's suck for some reason?
* Should I be freaked out that this post says, "Engine was rebuilt by factory service at 55,000 miles."
* Should we shop Ebay instead? (I've never purchased a single thing from ebay)

Thanks in advance guys,

brad

[Panzer_M]

People claim being built in Spartenburg, they don't have the same feel as a german built BMW..which I don't know. I've liked every Z3 I've been in.

but then the Z3 Coupes and if I am not mistake the Z3Ms were also made in Spartenburg.

[SDKmann]

I wouldnt be freaked out about the factory rebuild since the problem has already been taken care of. Id go for the one in the link cause it looks like it is in really good condition. I personally wouldnt mess with Ebay but its your choice.

[Severian]

Thanks for your time, guys. I'd like to test drive the car before we buy; in fact the feel of our 318ti feels so nice, that's the reason we're looking for another BMW. We're not rich, so here we are at the edge of affordable and fun, you know?

Thanks again. I shall follow up with this seller. Any more words of wisdom will not fall on deaf ears!

[USMC318ti]

I am a proud and happy prior Z3 owner.
Mine was a 4 cylinder just like the one your
looking at. Seems like a great asking price, miles
arent to bad. Id jump on it.

[Severian]

What do you guys think about these issues with this car:

* The front bumper looks like it has been dragged over a cement parking stopper or something...it's scraped up pretty bad and cracked on the bottom. It's not too noticable until you get down on your hands and knees, but how much would this cost to smooth out the scuffled plastic bumper and paint it black?
* There's silicone sealant around the OUTSIDE edge of the rear window, like the previous owner(s) tried to stop leaks into the car. Should we assume we'll have to replace the entire top to stop potential leaks? Bavauto.com sells a canvas top for $500 and doesn't mention professional installation, but should I assume we'll have to pay to have one installed?
* This is the same engine as our 318ti, but it sounds louder on acceleration...is this because the Z3 has something built-in to make it sound more menacing?
* There's some rust on the trunk latch. Could this be a huge problem?
* The seats are powered, but the passenger seat has a little "give" to it...it kinda slides a quarter inch if you brake or accelerate. A loose bolt? Or something more expensive?

Thanks for any help guys. There are many more issues with this car than there were with our 318...ugh

[Severian]

Okay guys, sorry to bump my thread, but I must try one last time. I'm freakin' a bit about this potential purchase because I'm not sure if the issues above should be big red flashy warnings not to buy the car, or if they're just speedbumps. This deal will push through tomorrow, and you guys are my experts. Would you pay $10k for this car?

* 1998 Z3 1.9L
* 72,000 miles
* Engine reserviced by factory at 55,000 miles; looks clean upon inspection
* No keyless entry/alarm remote (must have lost it)
* Damaged front bumper (very bottom lip, won't spot unless you stoop)
* Silicone residue around the rear window; previous owner put that there, maybe indicates leak potential until top is replaced
* Engine sounds and runs clean
* 3/4 roundels need replaced, leather shifter boot needs replaced
* Rust visible around the trunk latch
* New tires; rims in good condition
* Paint in great shape
* Interior in great shape

Am I offering too much? This is my last cry for validation or invalidation, I promise.

[snwbrdrbum10]

JUmp on it. everything sounds mostly minor. enigine rebuild done by factory, so that's ok, but everything else sounds good and/or easily fixable. so do it

[USMC318ti]

The sealant around the window is a given, the window has
a tendency to come out in the older models, they were just
trying to prevent it. The sliding seat is also a Z3 quirk, mine
did the same thing on the passenger side, i solved it by
always having the seat ran to the furthest back position.
There is a fix for it though, I saw it online somewhere.....
Id pay $10,000 for it. I paid 10K for my 97 Z3 1.9 with
88,000 miles in pretty much the same condition.

[Severian]

Thanks so much guys...looks like it'll be a done deal tomorrow! BMer number two baby!! I really appreciate your feedback. This is the first FSBO transaction I've been a part of. Dealers it's all over with so fast...with FSBO I have way too long to think about it...hehe

[AlaskaBlue]

Congrats on the purchase if you go through with it. Woo muncie... I will be interested to hear reactions and comparisons of the car with the Z3. As for the spartanberg factor the Z4 we have is A+++ it is still german quality and engineering even if it is built in America.

[IndianaTravis]

I didn't realize the car was in Muncie. I would have gone to check it out for you.

I traded my first ti for a Z3 in 2000. My dad (who lives in Muncie) has a 2002 Z3. They are great cars. Mine was a six cylinder, but I've driven some 1.9s and they feel pretty much just like a ti.

It is difficult to NOT scrape the bumper in a Z3.

You will want to check out HMSMotorsport.com, z3solutions.com, and leatherz.com for cool accessories.

You will really like the Z! If you can, find out when Z3 homecoming is this year in Spartanburg, and make it a vacation. Z3 homecoming is the second most fun car event I've ever attended (MINIs at the Dragon 2003 was the most fun).

[Severian]

Thanks for the encouragement Alaska! Awesome, thanks for the info Travis. I really need to hear your encouraging words about Z3s...I just completed the transaction! I'm strung high...I will feel better in a few days I hope.

Private sales are nerve-wracking man. But we saved a lot of $$ versus what a dealer would charge. I'll check out those links, Travis. Thanks very much for the resources.

[Severian]

Well, I was finanlly able to pick up the car yesterday. So far I take issue with the following things:

* The Check Engine Light came on after 100 miles of driving. Hm...luckily we have a diagnostic code reader for the 318ti which should work for the Z3. More on this when I get home (I'm pissed, the seller said nothing about a CEL).
* There is a pronounced rattling coming from near the catalytic converter. At this point we don't know what it is yet; I saw a post here discuss the possibility of a loose E-brake cable, and our e-brake does give quite a bit...maybe I just need to adjust that (crosses fingers).
* When I hit the brakes for an abrupt stop the car pulled right. I had to pull the wheel almost 45 degrees to the left to keep the car straight as I came to a stop. Anyone know what this could be?
* I bought a new leather shift boot to replace the ratty old one that was cracked and stiff, but it feels like the shift knob is GLUED or something. There's a clear, spongy compound at the bottom of the knob. The instructions mention a penetrating spray may be needed to remove the knob, any suggestions?
* The passenger seat slides back and forth a bit. Gonna work on that soon.

Man...funny thing is I'm not a "car guy" but I wish I was. I'm going to try to diagnose/fix as many of these issues as possible though. Any comments are surely welcome.

[IndianaTravis]

I'm getting an "intermittent" CEL in my ti. It has come on twice, and both times I was 'lugging' the car a bit by being in too high a gear. That could be coincidence, though. It has gone away each time after about 3 or 4 days. Just an idea, check the gas cap. A loose gas cap will cause a CEL.

I'm guessing I either have an 02 sensor on the way out, or I have a cat going bad. Either way, I'm sure I'll have to deal with it sometime.

The pulling under braking could be a bad alignment or worn control arms/ball joints (I think?) Most likely take it to an alignment shop and they'll tell you the ball joints are worn, so it might be a good preventative anyway.

The shift knob? If it is the stock knob, you just have to pull REALLY hard. It could have been rattling and they tried to glue it on. I know people who have given themselves facial bruises removing BMW shift knobs. You have to pull VERY hard.

You are in Indy, right?