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Old 12-02-2013, 08:57 PM   #1
Pinion
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Default suspension over haul with picks

some of the goodies arrived today, so up went the car and down came the rear.



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Old 12-02-2013, 08:58 PM   #2
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what is the best way to get shaft bolts off inboard side, need to redo seal and bearings since I have the rear out. Tried to no avail
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:35 PM   #3
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That's some good progress. I need to do the same to mine this summer. How many miles are on your car and how are the bushings back there? What brand aftermarket bushings did you go with; IE or AKG?

For getting the halfshaft bolts off, I would say to hit the bolts with some penetrating oil and then the impact wrench.
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Old 12-02-2013, 09:47 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by MINIz guy View Post
That's some good progress. I need to do the same to mine this summer. How many miles are on your car and how are the bushings back there? What brand aftermarket bushings did you go with; IE or AKG?

For getting the halfshaft bolts off, I would say to hit the bolts with some penetrating oil and then the impact wrench.
93k on the car, bushings are poop. AKG all the way, I will try the penetrating oil, tied the impact
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:50 PM   #5
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Could you expand on the RTABS and subframe bushings?

Are the subframe bushings completely cracked so that the metal sleeve can come out? Or is there just a bit of deflection? Do the RTABs also have a lot of deflection?
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Old 12-03-2013, 12:25 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by MINIz guy View Post
Could you expand on the RTABS and subframe bushings?

Are the subframe bushings completely cracked so that the metal sleeve can come out? Or is there just a bit of deflection? Do the RTABs also have a lot of deflection?
bushings are cracked and rtabs r good, bushings are just old, this car was a sitter so some dry rot im sure. and no, not that simple as to just come out, I will be using a good vocabulary until they are out, for sure
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:18 AM   #7
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I always broke the axle bolts free while the subframe was in the car with the e-brake on.

You could drain the diff and pop the stub axles out if there is enough play in the cv joints. Or unbolt the diff from the subframe if there isn't enough play.

Or make something that bolts to the input flange that can hold itself against the trailing arm while you go after the axle bolts with a nice breaker bar/impact.
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:24 AM   #8
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all apart now, diff is in the drain pan, opened and ready for new seals and bearings. just have to remove axles from hub, don't have the right socket for the axle bolt
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Old 12-03-2013, 09:20 PM   #9
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finished all fo the removal
doing some cleaning and then re assembly








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Old 12-04-2013, 03:26 AM   #10
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Removing everything is the easy part, great project! I'll sent you mine next haha
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Old 12-04-2013, 01:07 PM   #11
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Removing everything is the easy part, great project! I'll sent you mine next haha
I'm sure, not looking forward to reinstalling rear, assembled
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Old 12-04-2013, 07:38 PM   #12
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today e front bits start to go back on
Meyel HD lca and ball joints, ss brake lines, Bilstiens and H&R sports
Sway bar later, found a leaking power steering line that would be a b#*ch to get to with a 28mm sway bar in the way (H&R) with Meyel hd links



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Old 12-04-2013, 10:07 PM   #13
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todays progress, front end done except for sway bar, waiting on power steering line



Rear is waiting on differential seals, bearings, and a thin walled 30mm to pull input shaft.
will be welding reinforcement for beefy swaybar.
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:59 AM   #14
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Are your springs going to lower you or will you end up at the stock height? Obviously handling will improve with the bigger sway bar and new parts. Just wondering what the goal is? Wish I had your confidence to just go for it like that.
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Old 12-05-2013, 01:04 PM   #15
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I had a 2" drop already, too low, going back up a small bit, still 1.4" below stock. the goal is handling, and overall just replacing things that are old. I cant leave anything alone
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