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Old 06-15-2008, 09:09 AM   #31
zboot
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Ok. I removed half of the drive shaft, disconnected the clutch slave cylinder, and the reverse light wiring harness thing. I had to remove the transmission mount crossmember temporarily to access the driveshaft bolts. Supported the tranny with the floor jack while doing this.

After removing the bolts, put the tranny mount crossmemeber back on, loosen the plastic clamp that secures the center of the driveshaft, then unbolt the center piece of the two halves of the driveshaft. Be sure to have marked both sides - they're only meant to mate up one way. You then kinda pull down along the center and it slides off.

So, I'm done under the car for this weekend After I get a few hours of sleep, I'll fix and test my driver's side window, fix up the bumper, then continue dismantling the front end and engine stuff.

Pics of the removed half driveshaft:

http://picasaweb.google.com/kamakula/SwapWeekendOneB
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Old 06-15-2008, 09:18 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tiFreak View Post
sounds like you're working pretty hard, I have to applaud people who are doing engine swaps themselves, I would never have the follow-through or know-how to even attempt something like this
Part of the appeal of getting my ti was that I'd get a chance to learn to do these things. I've found for the most part it's not terribly complicated just time consuming the first time around.

When I first removed the rear end of a ti, it took me ~20 hours. When I did it about a month ago at Rendoll's it took ~7 hours. I spend time beforehand reading the Bentley manual and looking up writeups online (especially for pictures) and even while I'm doing the work I reference the manual or any writeups that I found.

I'm one of those people who when it's crunch time can sit and work for 12+ hours at a time. So, I can handle the long working hours just to get one or two parts off the car
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Old 06-15-2008, 09:57 PM   #33
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looks like your getting some good progress!
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Old 06-16-2008, 03:37 AM   #34
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Grr. So I swapped window regulators, tweaked channels, did everything, then the door slam test. . . and it binds up on the way up and the new regulator arm gets bent!

I think I'm going to give up on doing the window myself and seek pro help. That's probably going to have to wait a few months for the wallet to recover from the swap.

Another thing - don't hit the clutch while the clutch slave cylinder is disconnected from the transmission unless you want to spend time reassembling the unit. To be honest, now that I know what I'm doing, it'll only take a minute or two. However, today I spent 30 minutes learning.

So, what did I get done today?

1. Took out my current regulator only to break the new one.
2. Remove more of the front end but didn't really get too far into disconnecting stuff from the engine.
3. Rotate the tires on my buddy's car that I'm borrowing.

Lessons for next time:
1. Bring pillow and blanket for sleeping in garage. It gets really cold around 6am.
2. Spend a lot more time reading up on what I plan to do next.
3. Try to have all the parts I need ahead of time so I don't spend time driving places to buy them.
4. Bring lots of water.

Here are the final pics for this weekend: http://picasaweb.google.com/kamakula/SwapWeekendOneC
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Old 06-16-2008, 03:39 AM   #35
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yeah man, well done! sounds like its coming along great.
and i hear you about the learning and whatnot - your right, its really not that complicated, its all nuts and bolts... but its the time consumption that gets you. I now know easily 100x more than I did before. I used to take my car to the garage for everything, but now im not scared to give it a go myself. Plus the feeling of accomplishment is worth all the long hours.

but I have one suggestion that just came to mind though after reading my thread again after you were wondering about odds & ends...
if the motor still has the stock waterpump (orange plastic impeller) - get rid of it now and get the upgraded metal impeller waterpump, if the plastic shatters inside the motor... you'll be in one heck of a mess...
and its probably a good time to change that thermostat too.

Changing the waterpump and thermostat is a breeze if the front clip is off the car or if the motor is still out of the car.
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Old 06-16-2008, 02:47 PM   #36
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nice progress!

keep it up and get some rest
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Old 06-17-2008, 05:09 AM   #37
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Looks like I'm going to be getting an m3 clutch and flywheel. Used yes, but likely still significantly better than my current clutch and flywheel setup. I'm also getting the MAF from the same guy.

I'm at 95% on the wheels. The guy seems astonished that I'm willing to pay for them based on the pictures and trusting him to have the one rim fixed. I hope this goes through though.

The guy with the exhaust system is dragging his feet. I'm going to return to actively looking for one. I need it shipped out so I can get it (worst case) early next week so I can have the welding done. Otherwise there would be one loud car driving down I-90 in a couple weekends.

Still roaming for a 6cyl front brake setup. Seems to be a lot of m3 parts for sale lately.
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Old 06-17-2008, 09:55 PM   #38
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Hmm, more goodies on the way. I decided to go with a 328 brake setup instead of waiting for available complete m3 ones. So, I've got calipers+carriers and brand new brembo rotors and pbr pads on the way.

BTW I bought the brand new brembo rotors + pads + sensor on special for $138 shipped from: bimmerzone.com

Also, looks like i'll be buying a hoist. HF has one for $100. *sigh* Swap costs are adding up.

We can add a 328 midpipe to the list of bought items. Now, all I need are my wheels and a few odds & ends.
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Old 06-18-2008, 02:01 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly View Post
the PS res mounts on the drivers side motor mount bracket, behind the alternator.
So I can use the 318ti PS res?
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Old 06-18-2008, 05:00 PM   #40
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Possibly but it sits in a different place altogether so you would have to change the pipes anyway. Easier to get a complete setup off a 6 pot. Dont forget, you need the 6cyl high pressure power steering lines too!
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Old 06-18-2008, 05:36 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M4YTY View Post
Possibly but it sits in a different place altogether so you would have to change the pipes anyway. Easier to get a complete setup off a 6 pot. Dont forget, you need the 6cyl high pressure power steering lines too!
I guess I'll learn what's needed as I go along. I'll need to find some pics of the PS res in a 328 so I have a better idea of what's going on. I may be running w/o power steering for a while. But hey, that works the muscles right?

Though I may have figured it out. Looking at realoem, I see that there is a power steering bracket thing that is secured to the reservoir like a hose clamp. So, I'll probably just buy one of those and use the 318ti reservoir.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:33 PM   #42
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The PS reseviors are the same I believe, they just are located in different places. Unbolt it from the frame (stock TI location) and it bolts back up to the drivers side motor mount under the intake. There are two holes there, you'll see them.

If you can get ahold of all the ps lines from a 6-cyl, any 6-cyl you'll be golden, however I did use the 4-cyl lines when I did my 325ti swap.

I wouldn't recomend it and I used 6-cyl lines on the 332ti. They are worlds cleaner.

Let me know if you have questions, I've done this twice now.... pretty familiar..

Good Luck
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:46 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by campaiar View Post
If you can get ahold of all the ps lines from a 6-cyl, any 6-cyl you'll be golden, however I did use the 4-cyl lines when I did my 325ti swap.

I wouldn't recomend it and I used 6-cyl lines on the 332ti. They are worlds cleaner.
How easy would it be to change over to the 6cyl lines with the engine installed?
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:50 PM   #44
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It will take less than 5 minutes. Most of that is probably figuring out exactly how the lines are oriented. They will attach directly to your TI rack.
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Old 06-18-2008, 11:25 PM   #45
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if you are looking for an exhaust still this was just posted on my local forum

http://forum.bavarianspeed.com/showthread.php?t=10621
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