318ti.org forum

Go Back   318ti.org forum > Technical, Maintenance and Modifications > Differentials

Notices

Differentials Limit Slip, gear ratio discussions.

.
» Recent Threads
Valeo / Cibie part #...
Yesterday 11:52 PM
Last post by Jrrrrr
Yesterday 11:52 PM
0 Replies, 145 Views
1998 318ti
07-27-2022 05:31 PM
Last post by knightbird1
Yesterday 07:14 PM
2 Replies, 596 Views
checking for cracks in...
08-03-2022 06:15 PM
Last post by far6car
08-03-2022 06:15 PM
0 Replies, 929 Views
Reply Share/Bookmark
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-25-2005, 07:26 PM   #16
Dredder
Senior Member
 
Dredder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 484
iTrader: (0)
Default

This is exactly what im talking about. Make it clear so that others can benefit from it. Isnt that the purpose of a forum. There should be no reason another member should charge for instructions in this community.
Dredder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2005, 12:57 AM   #17
cali-ti
aka Stabby
 
cali-ti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mead, CO
Posts: 5,336
iTrader: (0)
Default

i have some input ... the e30 diff is a little too long, found we had to grind out semi-circular sections of the rear subframe that is part of the unibody/trunk to get it to fit properly (the part in constant's write up about the top diff cover bolt "touching" was an understatement in my situation, the subframe was RESTING on the top diff cover bolt and the diff cover bushing was still about 1/2 -3/4" below where it needed to be to bolt up). we used a grinder with grinding wheel to remove just as much metal as we needed to get it to fit. i don't know how anyone did it without doing that unless tolerances are fairly different between cars (constant's is a 4/1996 and mine is like 5/1996 so i find it hard to believe they are that much different). i used the e30 3.73 LSD and m coupe finned diff cover just like him. hated to grind, but i found it a necessity to get it to fit. we also found one of the other diff cover bolts prevented the diff cover bushing from getting where it needed to go and we had to grind off a small section of the diff cover bushing mount (most rearward one) that is also part of the unibody. we ground over to the ribbed section but not into it to retain strength, probably had to grind upwards about 1.5 - 2". UPDATE: was under there last night and noticed my friend had ground (and needed to) the edges of BOTH the mounts (there is one on either side of the diff cover mount bushing).

so it sounds like we have the following that make this swap potentially not just "bolt up":

1) clearance of diff cover bolts with rear subframe and diff cover bushing mounts attached to subframe/unibody, may require grinding
2) abs sensors may require shims (remove before installing half shafts back in hub to check)

also, things i'm looking for still:

1) proper torque settings for diff cover bolts (we torqued them to 35 since the cover is aluminum and i don't want to damage it but this was just a somewhat educated guess)
2) torque for new diff drain/fill plugs that use an imbedded o-ring (rather than the aluminum crush washer)

anyone who can send me those ASAP i would greatly appreciate!

btw, who is charging for instructions dredder? i agree, provide help/instructions where you can and you get so much in return here that it's justified, imho.
__________________
1996 318ti, California package, 267k miles
current mods: bilstein sports, bavauto springs, e30 m3 LCABs, solid metal ball joints, bavauto RSMs w/reinforcements, e30 3.73 LSD & halfshafts, supersprint cat-back exhaust, turner rear sway bar reinforcements, IE poly subframe & RTABs + camber/toe kits, powdercoated e36 32x front calipers, sport mirrors, H&R 28mmF/19mmR sway bars, x-brace, auto solutions SSK w/poly bushing upgrade, BMW CD43 head unit, DICE HD Radio w/iPod integration and "stealth" HD antenna, staggered style 68s, orange electronic TPMS, leather arm rest, JT Designs metal undertray

acquired and awaiting install: heated seat kit, cali top switch relo, lumbar support kit, park distance control kit, heated washer nozzle kit, m-coupe rear subframe, trailing arms, differential, and halfshafts, m-coupe front/rear brakes with master cylinder, under hood light kit, mud flaps, rear sun blind, auto-dimming rear view mirror, tilt steering wheel retrofit, apexcone 5000K HIDs with 55W ballasts




2002 X5 4.4 Sport Package, 53.5k miles
Current Mods: e46 m3 steering wheel
cali-ti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2005, 12:56 PM   #18
Constant
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 68
iTrader: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cali-ti
1) proper torque settings for diff cover bolts (we torqued them to 35 since the cover is aluminum and i don't want to damage it but this was just a somewhat educated guess)
2) torque for new diff drain/fill plugs that use an imbedded o-ring (rather than the aluminum crush washer)
1) Diff cover: M8 bolts = 33Nm = 24.3 ft-lbs, M10 bolts = 47Nm = 34.7 ft-lbs (Good guess!)

2) Don't know about the "new" style plugs, but the old crush washer ones are 51.6 ft-lbs.

Constant
Constant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2005, 01:21 PM   #19
maurolin
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Tampa
Posts: 465
iTrader: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cali-ti
i have some input ... the e30 diff is a little too long, found we had to grind out semi-circular sections of the rear subframe that is part of the unibody/trunk to get it to fit properly (the part in constant's write up about the top diff cover bolt "touching" was an understatement in my situation, the subframe was RESTING on the top diff cover bolt and the diff cover bushing was still about 1/2 -3/4" below where it needed to be to bolt up). we used a grinder with grinding wheel to remove just as much metal as we needed to get it to fit. i don't know how anyone did it without doing that unless tolerances are fairly different between cars (constant's is a 4/1996 and mine is like 5/1996 so i find it hard to believe they are that much different). i used the e30 3.73 LSD and m coupe finned diff cover just like him. hated to grind, but i found it a necessity to get it to fit. we also found one of the other diff cover bolts prevented the diff cover bushing from getting where it needed to go and we had to gring off a small section of the diff cover bushing mount (most rearward one) that is also part of the unibody. we ground over to the ribbed section but not into it to retain strength, probably had to grind up 1.5 - 2".

so it sounds like we have the following that make this swap potentially not just "bolt up":

1) clearance of diff cover bolts with rear subframe and diff cover bushing mount attached to subframe/unibody, may require grinding
2) abs sensors may require shims (remove before installing half shafts back in hub to check)

also, things i'm looking for still:

1) proper torque settings for diff cover bolts (we torqued them to 35 since the cover is aluminum and i don't want to damage it but this was just a somewhat educated guess)
2) torque for new diff drain/fill plugs that use an imbedded o-ring (rather than the aluminum crush washer)

anyone who can send me those ASAP i would greatly appreciate!

btw, who is charging for instructions dredder? i agree, provide help/instructions where you can and you get so much in return here that it's justified, imho.


Damn! That wa good Cali... It is JUST AS IT IS IN REALITY.. NO BS. EVERYONE COPY AND PASTE THIS INFO ON YOUR OWNER:S MANUAL!
__________________
1995 318Ti S52 OBD1 conversion
AC Schnitzer theme
http://baybimmers.dtdns.net/Project%...0schnitzer.jpg
maurolin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2005, 02:00 PM   #20
cali-ti
aka Stabby
 
cali-ti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mead, CO
Posts: 5,336
iTrader: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Constant
1) Diff cover: M8 bolts = 33Nm = 24.3 ft-lbs, M10 bolts = 47Nm = 34.7 ft-lbs (Good guess!)

2) Don't know about the "new" style plugs, but the old crush washer ones are 51.6 ft-lbs.

Constant
1) hmmm ... opinion on what i should do with the m8s which are currently torqued to 35 lb-ft? should i back them out and retorque them to 24? or should i leave them as they are since it's seated with the gasket? which ones are which (m8 vs m10)? there were two black ones (bottom of the cover) and the rest were a different color (too tired for brain to think of the color) - two short that go at the top and the other four that go at the four corners of the middle raised section.

2) well ... maybe i'll go with that. not sure how the rubber o-ring will deal with that, but i have spares of the old style with crush washers. doesn't that seem high for aluminum? the last thing i want to do is mess up the threads for the drain/fill plugs after all this!
__________________
1996 318ti, California package, 267k miles
current mods: bilstein sports, bavauto springs, e30 m3 LCABs, solid metal ball joints, bavauto RSMs w/reinforcements, e30 3.73 LSD & halfshafts, supersprint cat-back exhaust, turner rear sway bar reinforcements, IE poly subframe & RTABs + camber/toe kits, powdercoated e36 32x front calipers, sport mirrors, H&R 28mmF/19mmR sway bars, x-brace, auto solutions SSK w/poly bushing upgrade, BMW CD43 head unit, DICE HD Radio w/iPod integration and "stealth" HD antenna, staggered style 68s, orange electronic TPMS, leather arm rest, JT Designs metal undertray

acquired and awaiting install: heated seat kit, cali top switch relo, lumbar support kit, park distance control kit, heated washer nozzle kit, m-coupe rear subframe, trailing arms, differential, and halfshafts, m-coupe front/rear brakes with master cylinder, under hood light kit, mud flaps, rear sun blind, auto-dimming rear view mirror, tilt steering wheel retrofit, apexcone 5000K HIDs with 55W ballasts




2002 X5 4.4 Sport Package, 53.5k miles
Current Mods: e46 m3 steering wheel
cali-ti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2005, 02:17 PM   #21
cali-ti
aka Stabby
 
cali-ti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mead, CO
Posts: 5,336
iTrader: (0)
Default

i updated my post above with some more info re: diff cover bushing mounts attached to the unibody). both of them needed to have their edges ground down, not just the most rearward one).

well, i don't want anyone else to find out they need to do this crap once they've already removed their old diff and are trying to mount the new one. we had a hell of a time and made extra trips to the farm & fleet (20 mins away) because i didn't know we'd need a grinder (i'm not an auto shop so i don't have unlimited tools at my disposal ... although i'm getting there, lol). i want to give everyone the straight poop too so they can decide if they really want to do this on their own car. after all the work i'd done up to that point, i sure as hell didn't want to put the old whining damn diff back in, lol ... we determined that just grinding off what we needed to was the best option and proceeded. i don't think it will really affect the structural element of the subframe.
__________________
1996 318ti, California package, 267k miles
current mods: bilstein sports, bavauto springs, e30 m3 LCABs, solid metal ball joints, bavauto RSMs w/reinforcements, e30 3.73 LSD & halfshafts, supersprint cat-back exhaust, turner rear sway bar reinforcements, IE poly subframe & RTABs + camber/toe kits, powdercoated e36 32x front calipers, sport mirrors, H&R 28mmF/19mmR sway bars, x-brace, auto solutions SSK w/poly bushing upgrade, BMW CD43 head unit, DICE HD Radio w/iPod integration and "stealth" HD antenna, staggered style 68s, orange electronic TPMS, leather arm rest, JT Designs metal undertray

acquired and awaiting install: heated seat kit, cali top switch relo, lumbar support kit, park distance control kit, heated washer nozzle kit, m-coupe rear subframe, trailing arms, differential, and halfshafts, m-coupe front/rear brakes with master cylinder, under hood light kit, mud flaps, rear sun blind, auto-dimming rear view mirror, tilt steering wheel retrofit, apexcone 5000K HIDs with 55W ballasts




2002 X5 4.4 Sport Package, 53.5k miles
Current Mods: e46 m3 steering wheel
cali-ti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2005, 04:25 PM   #22
Constant
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 68
iTrader: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cali-ti
1) which ones are which (m8 vs m10)?
Come to think of it, I believe all the E30 bolts are M10. I think the M8's only apply to E36's (non-ti). I searched for E36, so that makes sense. You should be OK.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cali-ti
2)doesn't that seem high for aluminum? the last thing i want to do is mess up the threads for the drain/fill plugs after all this!
Yeah, it does seem high. But that's the info I got according to Bentley & Ron Stygar's site. The crush washer is supposed to distort when you tighten it down. I wouldn't do 52 ft-lbs w/ the rubber o-ring, however.
Constant is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2005, 05:05 PM   #23
cali-ti
aka Stabby
 
cali-ti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mead, CO
Posts: 5,336
iTrader: (0)
Default

thanks constant ... i feel more at ease now re: diff cover bolts (whew!). maybe i'll do the drain/fill plugs at the same (35 lb-ft). thanks!
__________________
1996 318ti, California package, 267k miles
current mods: bilstein sports, bavauto springs, e30 m3 LCABs, solid metal ball joints, bavauto RSMs w/reinforcements, e30 3.73 LSD & halfshafts, supersprint cat-back exhaust, turner rear sway bar reinforcements, IE poly subframe & RTABs + camber/toe kits, powdercoated e36 32x front calipers, sport mirrors, H&R 28mmF/19mmR sway bars, x-brace, auto solutions SSK w/poly bushing upgrade, BMW CD43 head unit, DICE HD Radio w/iPod integration and "stealth" HD antenna, staggered style 68s, orange electronic TPMS, leather arm rest, JT Designs metal undertray

acquired and awaiting install: heated seat kit, cali top switch relo, lumbar support kit, park distance control kit, heated washer nozzle kit, m-coupe rear subframe, trailing arms, differential, and halfshafts, m-coupe front/rear brakes with master cylinder, under hood light kit, mud flaps, rear sun blind, auto-dimming rear view mirror, tilt steering wheel retrofit, apexcone 5000K HIDs with 55W ballasts




2002 X5 4.4 Sport Package, 53.5k miles
Current Mods: e46 m3 steering wheel
cali-ti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2005, 06:25 PM   #24
GDB
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Tyler, TX
Posts: 1,022
iTrader: (0)
Default

Cali ti,
I was wondering if you had to grind because you had a vented diff cover, or if the regular diff cover will also require subframe grinding? I have a E30 diff in the mail right now so I'm trying to get everything lined up and hopefully get the swap done in two days (since that's the most I can take off in a row).
__________________
Member #1 Keep E46 Bumpers off E36s Club
http://www.geocities.com/guywiththebluecar/GDBsig2.bmp
GDB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2005, 07:47 PM   #25
cali-ti
aka Stabby
 
cali-ti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mead, CO
Posts: 5,336
iTrader: (0)
Default

the top of the finned diff cover isn't any thicker. be aware of it the first time you attempt to fit it up there and mark where it hits (if it's going to) both on the mount brackets and the subframe itself. then grind and attempt to remount (i actually painted with rust preventative paint once we had it right).
__________________
1996 318ti, California package, 267k miles
current mods: bilstein sports, bavauto springs, e30 m3 LCABs, solid metal ball joints, bavauto RSMs w/reinforcements, e30 3.73 LSD & halfshafts, supersprint cat-back exhaust, turner rear sway bar reinforcements, IE poly subframe & RTABs + camber/toe kits, powdercoated e36 32x front calipers, sport mirrors, H&R 28mmF/19mmR sway bars, x-brace, auto solutions SSK w/poly bushing upgrade, BMW CD43 head unit, DICE HD Radio w/iPod integration and "stealth" HD antenna, staggered style 68s, orange electronic TPMS, leather arm rest, JT Designs metal undertray

acquired and awaiting install: heated seat kit, cali top switch relo, lumbar support kit, park distance control kit, heated washer nozzle kit, m-coupe rear subframe, trailing arms, differential, and halfshafts, m-coupe front/rear brakes with master cylinder, under hood light kit, mud flaps, rear sun blind, auto-dimming rear view mirror, tilt steering wheel retrofit, apexcone 5000K HIDs with 55W ballasts




2002 X5 4.4 Sport Package, 53.5k miles
Current Mods: e46 m3 steering wheel
cali-ti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2005, 05:53 AM   #26
gills
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Suffolk LI, NY
Posts: 35
iTrader: (0)
Default

hey guys. just to chime in, i just installed an mcoupe diff in my stock subframe, used my stock ti axles by swapping the diff output flanges with my ti ones(takes a whole minute to do) and everything bolted back up just fine. i didn't have to grind any of the subframe away. before this i had an e30 3.73 limited slip in there, basically the same way. i switched to the 3.23 mcoupe diff cause i felt the 3.73 was just a tad short for comfort on the street, plus 1st gear broke traction way to easily. honestly though, i think any 4 cyl with an open diff would benefit from a 3.73 e30 lsd swap.. they can be found relatively easily and they are not expensive at all.
__________________
1996 ///Mti
gills is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2005, 12:28 AM   #27
bimmerboi318
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 290
iTrader: (0)
Default

I had the clearance issue with the diff cover bolt hitting underbody of the car. I had to loosen the 4 bolts that bolt the diff to the subframe and use a pry bar to get it to clear (remember to tighten the bolts again ). It made it without modifications, but it does make some nice contact with the underbody.

I had to shim my sensors. They were also seized into the wheel hub, so you might need new ones if you damage them.

The e30 325i axles I used fit perfectly, aside from the above issue of shiming the sensors. The tone ring is bigger in diameter.
__________________
Vince Carknard
1995 318ti Active
Hellrot, 16" 5 spoke, "Fogged" airbox mod, Stromung exhaust, Bilstein Sports, BMW sport springs, 3.73lsd,
others...
bimmerboi318 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2005, 01:05 AM   #28
cali-ti
aka Stabby
 
cali-ti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mead, CO
Posts: 5,336
iTrader: (0)
Default

well hey, at least i'm not the ONLY one with clearance issues, lol it's in there now ... and getting a decent workout daily
__________________
1996 318ti, California package, 267k miles
current mods: bilstein sports, bavauto springs, e30 m3 LCABs, solid metal ball joints, bavauto RSMs w/reinforcements, e30 3.73 LSD & halfshafts, supersprint cat-back exhaust, turner rear sway bar reinforcements, IE poly subframe & RTABs + camber/toe kits, powdercoated e36 32x front calipers, sport mirrors, H&R 28mmF/19mmR sway bars, x-brace, auto solutions SSK w/poly bushing upgrade, BMW CD43 head unit, DICE HD Radio w/iPod integration and "stealth" HD antenna, staggered style 68s, orange electronic TPMS, leather arm rest, JT Designs metal undertray

acquired and awaiting install: heated seat kit, cali top switch relo, lumbar support kit, park distance control kit, heated washer nozzle kit, m-coupe rear subframe, trailing arms, differential, and halfshafts, m-coupe front/rear brakes with master cylinder, under hood light kit, mud flaps, rear sun blind, auto-dimming rear view mirror, tilt steering wheel retrofit, apexcone 5000K HIDs with 55W ballasts




2002 X5 4.4 Sport Package, 53.5k miles
Current Mods: e46 m3 steering wheel
cali-ti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-05-2005, 02:50 AM   #29
L84THSKY
Senior Member
 
L84THSKY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Manassas, VA
Posts: 4,129
iTrader: (0)
Default

I'm contemplating doing the same thing; using the ti flanges with the 6-cylinder diff. Have you noticed any problems? I may keep it that way, or maybe swap the flanges and inner CV joints to the E30 style afterwards.



Quote:
Originally Posted by gills
hey guys. just to chime in, i just installed an mcoupe diff in my stock subframe, used my stock ti axles by swapping the diff output flanges with my ti ones(takes a whole minute to do) and everything bolted back up just fine. i didn't have to grind any of the subframe away. before this i had an e30 3.73 limited slip in there, basically the same way. i switched to the 3.23 mcoupe diff cause i felt the 3.73 was just a tad short for comfort on the street, plus 1st gear broke traction way to easily. honestly though, i think any 4 cyl with an open diff would benefit from a 3.73 e30 lsd swap.. they can be found relatively easily and they are not expensive at all.
__________________

1998 (July) 318ti, 5-spd
OEM Armrest • Blaupunkt Heidelberg CD50 CD Player/Compact Drive MP3 Player • Diamond Audio 5.25" rear speakers • Navman ICN 530 GPS • BMWALARM.COM (with comfort settings) after market alarm system • Magnecor 8.5mm wires • M-Z3 Shifter/Momo Knob • Burlwood Dashboard • Stromung Exhaust • X-brace • Racing Dynamics Front Strut Bar • Carbonio C.A.I. • 17" Rial Rims • Vader Seats/Heated/Lumbar Support • M-tech Steering Wheel/Front Sway Bar/Front & Rear Bumper • Depos/w 6500K Angel Eyes/6000K HIDs • Clear Corners • M3 Mirrors • UUC Light Weight Flywheel/M5 Clutch/M3 Clutch Slave • E28 3.46 LSD/Mcoupe Cover/E30 Flanges & Halfshafts • UUC S.S. Brake/Clutch Lines • Hartge Roof Spoiler • BavAuto Springs• Bilstein Sport Struts/Shocks • E46 M3 Rear Shock Mounts • SPC Front Camber Kit • Reiger Hatch Spoiler • BavAuto Rear Camber Kit • Dinan Stage II Software • Turner Rear Sway Bar Reinforcements • BMW E46 Auto dimming mirror with Clown Nose alarm • Engine Compartment Light • Heated Wiper Fluid Retrofit • OEM Fire Extinguisher • Da'lan Trailer Hitch • Rear Sun Shade • OEM Fog Light Retrofit • H & R MZ3 Rear Sway Bar/ UUC Adjustable End Links • Cruise Control Retrofit • On Board Computer Retrofit • M3 twistie style side skirts • Carbon Fiber Hood
L84THSKY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2022, 06:29 PM   #30
iski123
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 6
iTrader: (0)
Default

OK I'm prepping to do this swap and am still a little unclear on the parts required. I'm up in Canada so shipping for the specialty items is a pain and I'd like to get all the bits required the first time. Really can't afford to have my daily driver waiting on a hoist for an international shipment!

Sounds like the consensus is hybrid axels are not required so long as I have e30 axles in good shape? If this is true am I correct that I only need to pick up these two new parts and skip the CV circlips?

33 41 1 124 945 (x2) drive flange collar nut securing plate
07 12 9 964 672 (x4) driveshaft self-locking nuts

On pelican the 945 is showing up as a "lock nut rear axle"

Are there any other parts not mentioned in the notebook procedure that I should consider buying?

http://www.318ti.org/notebook/diff_c...ion/index.html
iski123 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:47 PM.


.
Powered by site supporters
vBulletin Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1999 - 2022, 318ti.org
© vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2
[page compression: 125.99 k/149.12 k (15.51%)]

318ti.org does not warrant or assume any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any information or products discussed.