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Old 11-17-2010, 12:15 AM   #1
zahir_213
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Default Another cold start problem with codes

Hello all,

I am having some cold start problems with my UK 1999 318is M44
car has done 99,000 miles.
just carried out an oil change using 5w40 fully synthetic oil.

I know loads of people have had cold start issues with a number of possible causes.

I am having the same cold start problems as everyone else.

The car seems to work perfectly once it has warmed up.

Anything other colder than 6 degrees C (42F) will almost certainly give me some problems when trying to start.

feels like not all cylinders are firing until it gets going and warms up.

So I have done the following
1. Changed the PCV + hose
2. Cleared the diagnostics, then read it again after a couple of days driving.

With regards to the codes it gave me the following results:
62 Randon/Multiple : Misfiring in several cylinders
29 Switching solenoid for Air Assisted Injection Valves Control Circuit (Bank 1)
35 Additive mixture adaptation (idle), bank 2, control limit reached

Could anyone please help me decipher the codes?
I used carsoft 6.5, did a search on the forum but it seems everyone has different types of codes?? Really confusing

Anyway my next step to try and fix the cold start issue is:

1. Try and read Air intake sensor and Coolant sensor live readings to check operation
2. Remove air intake manifold and check for perished vacuum pipes
3. Try some fancy new spark plugs

Any help much appreciated!

thanks

Last edited by zahir_213; 11-20-2010 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 11-17-2010, 02:38 AM   #2
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Those codes don't look like our OBDII codes. They're normally one letter and four numbers so I'm not sure what to tell you about that. I would suggest you start with the vacuum hoses to the injectors. I was just working on mine the other day and basically getting the same codes from an injector that wasn't getting the air it should have been from those vacuum lines. The lines crack where they slide over the plastic fittings both at the injectors and at the plastic splitter in the middle of that mess. The cracks allow unmetered air into the injectors and consequently there's not enough fuel to balance the air out. It's either that or you've got a blocked or bad injector, but given the history of these vacuum lines I think that's less likely.
I am a little confused by your code 29. All the M44s I've worked on haven't had any electronics associated with the vacuum lines to the injectors so I'm not sure what that means. It's a simple vacuum system that runs from the intake boot just before the throttle body directly to the injectors. No valves involved. Let us know what you figure out.
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Old 11-17-2010, 10:21 AM   #3
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Thanks for the reply

I will get the intake manifold off and check the pipes

Just out pf interest, what do you use to read codes? I am using carsoft but think I might try something else as all my codes seem to be different format to everyone elses!!

I'm sure my car has OBD2 so I just need the right software now I guess?

Thanks
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Old 11-17-2010, 03:32 PM   #4
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I personally use a ScanGauge II. It does many other things as well as reading the codes.
www.scangauge.com
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Old 11-17-2010, 03:51 PM   #5
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Looks like a tidy bit of kit actually

I've been using my laptop with some carsoft cables.

Do all these scanners have a standard set of codes they work to? If so, surely my software (carsoft 6.5) should be able to pick up the same codes?
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Old 11-17-2010, 05:24 PM   #6
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The OBDII specification consists of generic codes that are used across all manufacturers as well as some that are reserved for by the manufacturers for brand and model specific codes. I'm not familiar with CarSoft, but the link below will tell you more than you ever wanted to know about OBDII.

http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/obd2-codes-explained.php
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Old 11-17-2010, 05:51 PM   #7
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Europe has different obd standards, in 2001 EOBD was implemented in all the petrol cars there. Before that, it seems it was the manufacturers discretion on what to use.
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Old 11-17-2010, 06:27 PM   #8
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i have a 96 318ti M44 with 124,000 miles on it, i just did an oil change 2 weeks ago w/ 10w-40 full synthetic oil and almost imediatly after i get done with the oil change i now have a cold start issue/miss as well. when it gets warmed up pretty good it seams to go away for the most part. i replaced the vacuum line from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator because it was breaking apart but didn't change the cold start issue. i have not checked any codes yet though....the vacuum lines to the injectors are cracked and bad but they have been like that for about 10 months now and the cold start issue/missfire just started after the oil change.......weird
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1996 318ti base: m44, 5 spd, lsd - 18x8 bremmer kraft wheels w/sumitumo tires 225/40R18 & bmw locking lug studs, 10mm spacers in rear, halo headlights, cold air intake, koni str.t struts and shocks w/mounts, h&r sport springs, serp belts, control arm & tie rod kits, front sway bar links, JVC kd-x50bt headunit w/ipod hook up in the glove box, alpine sps-500(front and rear), jl audio 10" powerwedge max, jl audio 250.1 amp, motor mounts, fuel filter, passenger side window motor, drivers lower window run, muffler hanger kit, various interior bulbs, left door striker/ajar switch, lower hood latches, changed from gray vinal to black leather shift and parking brake boots, m3 weighted shift knob, ngk-r spark plugs, magnecor spark plug wires(blue),new cabin micro-filters,new headliner & a-pillar mouldings, 5w20 synth-blend oil and filter, BG Ultra Guard syn. rear end fluid & ls additive, BG Syncro Shift II syn. manual trans fluids, stainless steel braided brake lines and dot 4 fluid, extra brake light mod, new p/s reservoir and rubber hoses

need to do - fix door panels, paint job, MORE MONEY!!
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ti-billy View Post
i have a 96 318ti M44 with 124,000 miles on it, i just did an oil change 2 weeks ago w/ 10w-40 full synthetic oil and almost imediatly after i get done with the oil change i now have a cold start issue/miss as well. when it gets warmed up pretty good it seams to go away for the most part. i replaced the vacuum line from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator because it was breaking apart but didn't change the cold start issue. i have not checked any codes yet though....the vacuum lines to the injectors are cracked and bad but they have been like that for about 10 months now and the cold start issue/missfire just started after the oil change.......weird
What oil were you using before billy?
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:24 PM   #10
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idk, i bought the car April 2010 and I just changed the oil finally, been a busy year. but the previous owners had it serviced around the corner from were i work. ill try to go by there at lunch tomorrow and see if they will give me their service records for the vehicle.
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1996 318ti base: m44, 5 spd, lsd - 18x8 bremmer kraft wheels w/sumitumo tires 225/40R18 & bmw locking lug studs, 10mm spacers in rear, halo headlights, cold air intake, koni str.t struts and shocks w/mounts, h&r sport springs, serp belts, control arm & tie rod kits, front sway bar links, JVC kd-x50bt headunit w/ipod hook up in the glove box, alpine sps-500(front and rear), jl audio 10" powerwedge max, jl audio 250.1 amp, motor mounts, fuel filter, passenger side window motor, drivers lower window run, muffler hanger kit, various interior bulbs, left door striker/ajar switch, lower hood latches, changed from gray vinal to black leather shift and parking brake boots, m3 weighted shift knob, ngk-r spark plugs, magnecor spark plug wires(blue),new cabin micro-filters,new headliner & a-pillar mouldings, 5w20 synth-blend oil and filter, BG Ultra Guard syn. rear end fluid & ls additive, BG Syncro Shift II syn. manual trans fluids, stainless steel braided brake lines and dot 4 fluid, extra brake light mod, new p/s reservoir and rubber hoses

need to do - fix door panels, paint job, MORE MONEY!!
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Old 11-18-2010, 08:29 PM   #11
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ok, i went down to the shop and asked for the service records for my vehicle. well the shop said that they havent had the car in their shop for over 5 years and that records over 4 years old are purged from their system. so i don't know what oil was in it before, but looking at the condition the car was in when i bought it i would say it was a very inexpensive oil that the PO used...but i can't confirm that
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1996 318ti base: m44, 5 spd, lsd - 18x8 bremmer kraft wheels w/sumitumo tires 225/40R18 & bmw locking lug studs, 10mm spacers in rear, halo headlights, cold air intake, koni str.t struts and shocks w/mounts, h&r sport springs, serp belts, control arm & tie rod kits, front sway bar links, JVC kd-x50bt headunit w/ipod hook up in the glove box, alpine sps-500(front and rear), jl audio 10" powerwedge max, jl audio 250.1 amp, motor mounts, fuel filter, passenger side window motor, drivers lower window run, muffler hanger kit, various interior bulbs, left door striker/ajar switch, lower hood latches, changed from gray vinal to black leather shift and parking brake boots, m3 weighted shift knob, ngk-r spark plugs, magnecor spark plug wires(blue),new cabin micro-filters,new headliner & a-pillar mouldings, 5w20 synth-blend oil and filter, BG Ultra Guard syn. rear end fluid & ls additive, BG Syncro Shift II syn. manual trans fluids, stainless steel braided brake lines and dot 4 fluid, extra brake light mod, new p/s reservoir and rubber hoses

need to do - fix door panels, paint job, MORE MONEY!!
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Old 11-18-2010, 09:35 PM   #12
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I am also using 10w40 fully synthetic and have heard that using 5w30 can solve this issue.

Wonder if its worth a try?
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Old 11-18-2010, 10:08 PM   #13
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yeah, there is a poll on the site for synthetic oil and most people seam to use 5w-30, think im gonna put that in and see if it changes anything
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1996 318ti base: m44, 5 spd, lsd - 18x8 bremmer kraft wheels w/sumitumo tires 225/40R18 & bmw locking lug studs, 10mm spacers in rear, halo headlights, cold air intake, koni str.t struts and shocks w/mounts, h&r sport springs, serp belts, control arm & tie rod kits, front sway bar links, JVC kd-x50bt headunit w/ipod hook up in the glove box, alpine sps-500(front and rear), jl audio 10" powerwedge max, jl audio 250.1 amp, motor mounts, fuel filter, passenger side window motor, drivers lower window run, muffler hanger kit, various interior bulbs, left door striker/ajar switch, lower hood latches, changed from gray vinal to black leather shift and parking brake boots, m3 weighted shift knob, ngk-r spark plugs, magnecor spark plug wires(blue),new cabin micro-filters,new headliner & a-pillar mouldings, 5w20 synth-blend oil and filter, BG Ultra Guard syn. rear end fluid & ls additive, BG Syncro Shift II syn. manual trans fluids, stainless steel braided brake lines and dot 4 fluid, extra brake light mod, new p/s reservoir and rubber hoses

need to do - fix door panels, paint job, MORE MONEY!!
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Old 11-20-2010, 11:29 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ti-billy View Post
i have a 96 318ti M44 with 124,000 miles on it, i just did an oil change 2 weeks ago w/ 10w-40 full synthetic oil and almost imediatly after i get done with the oil change i now have a cold start issue/miss as well. when it gets warmed up pretty good it seams to go away for the most part. i replaced the vacuum line from the intake manifold to the fuel pressure regulator because it was breaking apart but didn't change the cold start issue. i have not checked any codes yet though....the vacuum lines to the injectors are cracked and bad but they have been like that for about 10 months now and the cold start issue/missfire just started after the oil change.......weird

See if you knocked the cylinder head temp sendor plug loose? I've done this on a oil change and it will cause hard starts...
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Old 11-20-2010, 07:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ti-billy View Post
yeah, there is a poll on the site for synthetic oil and most people seam to use 5w-30, think im gonna put that in and see if it changes anything
update on my situation, I am actually using 5w-40 fully synthetic oil and not 10w40 as previously stated!

back to the drawing board...
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