Refitting the turbo on my boston basket case.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by NeoMishMoo

The braided line isn't leaking its where the steel braided line screws into the turbo. The oil feed line inlet. Guess it was on a swivel and around where it swivels is leaking bad. Should I get another swivel inlet or just a regular one. Having a hard time finding them online maybe i'm not using the right term for it. thought i had a picture of the turbo but i don't.

Take oil turbo fitting off. Clean add teflon tape and install. It will take care of the leak.

[NeoMishMoo]

You think? Its leaking around any threads though. Where the inlet goes into the flange it is on a pivot so it can spin 360 degrees like in this picture except there are no threads on the bottom. Not sure if I can seal this with teflon or not...



Probably better off just buying one online for 5 bucks?

Would any big chain parts house have one of these on hand? really dont want to be patient about this.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by NeoMishMoo

You think? Its leaking around any threads though. Where the inlet goes into the flange it is on a pivot so it can spin 360 degrees like in this picture except there are no threads on the bottom. Not sure if I can seal this with teflon or not...



Probably better off just buying one online for 5 bucks?

Would any big chain parts house have one of these on hand? really dont want to be patient about this.

Take the brass pipe off the turbo bung. Cover the brass pipe with teflon tape. Install brass pipe in turbo bund and tighten it to exactly where it needs to be, then install bung on turbo with gasket and bolts. If your loosen the brass at all it will leak so tighten it perfect before you install the bung on turbo. It will not leak as long as you cover the brass threads with teflon tape then screw in tight and do not loosen at all. Ok?

[NeoMishMoo]

Got the oil leak fixed, got everything put back together and checked all my connections. But nothing happened when I tried to fire it up. Reset the wideband, still nothing. Earlier it started when it was gushing oil, but now no fire. Like it was getting not enough gas or no air.

There was a buzzing around the afm after connecting the battery, didn't matter if key was on or not. Stopped when I unplugged wire in the middle.


Heard some other buzzing and noticed a crack my coil pack and melted plastic seeping from the crack. Needless to say I pulled the battery and the coil pack.


Battery crapped out and I went from 700CCA to 740CCA, that shouldn't make a difference should it?

EDIT: found this thread http://www.forums.bimmerfest.com/sho...d.php?t=443166 guy had a similar problem with his coilpack melting. My coilpack is really hot on cylinder 4, OBDII showed misfire on 4 before starting, seems like a lot of people have had problems with #4. Might be a bad DME, not sure how much the turbo has to do with this, might be a whole new isolated problem that isn't concerned with the turbo, I'm about ready to just give up.

[NeoMishMoo]

Well bought a C.O.P. Conversion from HQ autosport. Figured since I had to replace my coilpack might as well get rid of the spark plug wires. I think they were original so they were probably due a replacing. Got the Coils on and fired up the car. Smoked a good bit both from exhaust and from engine bay. Idle was really rough. Took it for a test drive. Turbo spun up nice until I went to shift into 2nd. Heard a strange whomp and lost almost all power. Turned it around and took it back home.

Opened the hood and noticed when i revved it up the intake hose was sucking itself thin. Strangling for air. Took the lines off and noticed that the whomp was a rag that was stuffed in the intercooler by the PO for storage. Must have been in there deep as I did not see it.

The rag disloged from the intercooler and got caught on the MAF blocking it so the engine was gettting little to no air.

Was embarrassed that the problem was from such a stupid error, but relieved that it was such an easy fix, that is until i tried to fire it back up. No fire at all. Same problem as before with the bad coil pack.

Figure it must be a fuel problem as it will fire up with a little starting fluid in the intake. Checked the fuse but it looks good, guess next bet is to buy a relay since its kind of tricky to tell if a relay is bad. Really not sure what could have happened.

Engine ran, rag blocked airflow, engine ran badly (but still ran). took rag out, now it wont start. wtf?

Was hoping to have it complete this weekend, now I'm back to troubleshooting. So far this little ti is proving to be as much a project as my e30

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

did you hook up all the sensor wires after removing the rag? Maybe the MAF wire is off. Also the outside temp sensor could be unpluged in the air box area. This would make it go full rich for a -22 deg day

[NeoMishMoo]

Thats just it I didn't even unhook anything but I guess that I must have. How does the temp sensor work? because it is hooked up but it is just dangling loose in the engine bay. Not sure where it usually goes in a stock airbox. Can anyone submit a pic of their temp sensor and where it goes. Going to order my bentley today. MAF wire is on, there is some other thing that is unplugged not sure what it is I'll submit when I get the chance. seems like my fuel pump isn't working. I definitely have fire because it'll start with ether sprayed into the intake. just won't run. I dont hear the pump buzzing when I turn the key. the fuse is good but not sure about the relay for the pump. If there is a relay that works the pump.

[NeoMishMoo]

Riddle me this,
So I plug the battery in this morning and it starts right up....
Guessing the computer needed to be reset or something? I had it unplugged all night before and it didnt start but now it starts up after a few days being unhooked?

Not sure if I trust it to drive any type of long distances yet...

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by NeoMishMoo

Thats just it I didn't even unhook anything but I guess that I must have. How does the temp sensor work? because it is hooked up but it is just dangling loose in the engine bay. Not sure where it usually goes in a stock airbox. Can anyone submit a pic of their temp sensor and where it goes. Going to order my bentley today. MAF wire is on, there is some other thing that is unplugged not sure what it is I'll submit when I get the chance. seems like my fuel pump isn't working. I definitely have fire because it'll start with ether sprayed into the intake. just won't run. I dont hear the pump buzzing when I turn the key. the fuse is good but not sure about the relay for the pump. If there is a relay that works the pump.

If you have fire with starter spray then you have a fuel delivery issue. Maybe the fuel pump relay is bad. I think the CPS is good since it will start on spray. Also check the fuel pump since it might be bad and not pumping at all...

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by NeoMishMoo

Riddle me this,
So I plug the battery in this morning and it starts right up....
Guessing the computer needed to be reset or something? I had it unplugged all night before and it didnt start but now it starts up after a few days being unhooked?

Not sure if I trust it to drive any type of long distances yet...

That is odd. Maybe a bad ground somewhere

[NeoMishMoo]

Riddle me that:
After I started it up and it idled smoothly I shut it down without driving it, because I was a bit tired after work, Woke up excited to drive it but it wouldn't start again....

Got depressed and didn't post for a couple days, but the car started right up again yesterday. really not sure what is going on. Don't want to drive it with it being like this though.

Until my bentley comes in....
Which relay controls the fuel pump? Where are the main ground locations? Whats the best way to check the pump? Just take some line off and hook it up hot see if it pumps?

I've got a second pump put in but it seems to be working just fine.

[AquaCali]

Wonder if the problem may be the EWS chip in the key? I do not know how long they are good for but when I first got my car I had the dealer make a new key just in case. I do not know if they can check the key to make sure the signal for the chip is strong enough to allow the system to work.

[NeoMishMoo]

Good idea about the keychip, not sure how they act when the chip is bad.

But to update if anyone is still reading this, the car now starts up everytime just fine, guess the DME just needed to be reset? Kept it unhooked for days and now it works fine. My air fuel ratio still seems off. PO said I want 14 AFR at idle and 12 under boost. Got 40lbs of fuel pressure at the Fuel pressure regulator. The car still runs kinda funny. Only have 5lbs boost but seems sluggish. My AFR pegs at 18 sometimes which is pretty bad i suppose. It was a fun little project but I'm thinking about just selling the whole thing. I need a dependable car, not another toy, thats what my e30 is for.