1. Remove engine from car. Try not to break anything. If you break something, it's going to cost you $$.
2. With Long block removed from car, you have two options:
a. take entire long block to machinist, and let him break it down into parts.
b. disassemble the whole thing yourself, and take it to the machinist in pieces.
3. Machinist will determine if your crank and rod journals are in spec, and what bearings you need to order (stock or undersized in the event he needs to turn the crank).
4. Machnist will determine if you need new valves, or the stock hardware can be used. Not sure if the M42/M44 uses bushed valve guides, but those will probably need to be replaced.
5. Machinist will determine if a simple overbore is possible (+ .5mm or +1mm). Then order rebuild pistons (speed pro probably, go with the plasma moly coated skirts). New rings are sized accordingly.
6. Machinist will determine if block / head needs to be decked.
7. Machinist should look at your flywheel and see if it is still true.
8. Replace your oil pump, water pump, and anything else you won't want to go back in and replace after the rebuild. T stat housing, other hose fittings. anything plastic or rubber, replace. full set of gaskets.
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These are general rebuild guidelines, not specific to the M42/M44. I'm sure others will chime in with suggestions.
A lot of stuff you can do yourself, but it requires special tools, so you should only go that route if you intend to rebuild this engine or another compatible engine more than once in your life, otherwise just pay the guy to do it
As long as all of your hardware is good (crank, rods, block, head) you're probably looking at $1000 at the machinists for a cylinder bore, valve breakdown/reassembly, 3-angle valve grind, block deck, and jet tank wash.
If you have no reason to suspect the block has been abused, you can forego certain things like magnafluxing / sonic checking for cracks and bore thicknesses. __________________ 
1/1997 M44 ti M-Sport Schwartz II | 
Linear Mode
