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Old 05-21-2011, 04:56 PM   #61
blowin 4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
I would say the gauge is not accurate. Maybe a exhaut leak or it needs to be calibrated per instructions. They doo need a claibration every 3-6 months. Lambda like idle and crusing should always be 14.7 and floating around there so I'm pretty sure your gauge is off
I agree with John I ran 440 cc with 20 psi on my dasc btw John did u do any upgrades to yr fuel rail lines or return hose?
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Old 05-21-2011, 05:53 PM   #62
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Quote:
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I agree with John I ran 440 cc with 20 psi on my dasc btw John did u do any upgrades to yr fuel rail lines or return hose?
I run 3/8" hose to the fuel rail and 3/8" back to the regulator. I think the 5/16" stock hose can only handle 275hp at 60+psi. Also the faster you run the more excelleration you have which caused issues with fuel pushing forward to the front of the car from the fuel tank from G-force so beware. I run 42psi idle and 58psi under boost on the 3/8" hose. I run a stock M3 pump with no RRFPR only stock regulator with boost on the vacuum port for the extra fuel pressure under boost. Injectors handle the extra fuel load under boost.

I will say when I ran my 9's 800hp 1971 Vega I needed 1/2" line but that was running at 7psi fuel pressure to the 406ci, NOS kit was a stand alone at 7psi on a 3/8" line with race gas for the spray
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:07 PM   #63
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Ok, that makes a bit more sense actually... Gonna have it reset and see happens.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

I would say the gauge is not accurate. Maybe a exhaut leak or it needs to be calibrated per instructions. They doo need a claibration every 3-6 months. Lambda like idle and crusing should always be 14.7 and floating around there so I'm pretty sure your gauge is off
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Old 05-24-2011, 07:15 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
I run 3/8" hose to the fuel rail and 3/8" back to the regulator. I think the 5/16" stock hose can only handle 275hp at 60+psi. Also the faster you run the more excelleration you have which caused issues with fuel pushing forward to the front of the car from the fuel tank from G-force so beware. I run 42psi idle and 58psi under boost on the 3/8" hose. I run a stock M3 pump with no RRFPR only stock regulator with boost on the vacuum port for the extra fuel pressure under boost. Injectors handle the extra fuel load under boost.

I will say when I ran my 9's 800hp 1971 Vega I needed 1/2" line but that was running at 7psi fuel pressure to the 406ci, NOS kit was a stand alone at 7psi on a 3/8" line with race gas for the spray
i mean did you run a line from the tank or any bigger lines back to tank or left it stock.
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Old 05-24-2011, 07:19 AM   #65
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i bought a used g tech pro from ebay for $40 buck total garbage it keeps giving me readings of 0-60 in 7.2 7.3 lmfao im well in the low 4.6 4.8 for a fact based on a few cars that i have smoked on the road.
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Old 05-24-2011, 07:06 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
I would say the gauge is not accurate. Maybe a exhaut leak or it needs to be calibrated per instructions. They doo need a claibration every 3-6 months. Lambda like idle and crusing should always be 14.7 and floating around there so I'm pretty sure your gauge is off
Yeah, I would agree with this. Definitely pull the wideband O2 sensor from the bung and power up the sensor so that it comes up to full heat. You'll want it inopen air with no possibility that exhaust gas could be building up around you, even in small amounts.

It should read 20.9 in open air with no exhaust fumes around. Follow the instructions to get into the calibration menu and begin the calibration.

Another easy way to check the calibration is to get the car close to redline and then let off the gas, but do not disengage the transmission. When the car is decelerating it is not putting gas into the cylinders and you should see your AFR readings go to 20.9. There are actually instructions out on the web about calibrating the sensor while driving the car for cars that cut fuel when decelerating. Mine is reading 21.3 right now on decel so time to calibrate it again. For cars that are tracked, the advice from innovate is to do it after every track event.

If it is not a calibration issue, I would start troubleshooting by checking your fuel pressure at the pump and at the rail. Could be a faulty fuel pump.
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:46 AM   #67
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Interesting... I read the gauge under such decel conditions (full throttle, then foot off the gas) and yes, it goes straight down to 22!

Fuel pump is the HD version metric installed...

However, since the car sat arround not being driven for a while... it does NOT throw CEL anymore.
i.e. It is leading me to belive that it is NOT 'adapting' anymore.

If you remember, it used to throw a CEL due to adaptation values...




Quote:
Originally Posted by mohaughn

Yeah, I would agree with this. Definitely pull the wideband O2 sensor from the bung and power up the sensor so that it comes up to full heat. You'll want it inopen air with no possibility that exhaust gas could be building up around you, even in small amounts.

It should read 20.9 in open air with no exhaust fumes around. Follow the instructions to get into the calibration menu and begin the calibration.

Another easy way to check the calibration is to get the car close to redline and then let off the gas, but do not disengage the transmission. When the car is decelerating it is not putting gas into the cylinders and you should see your AFR readings go to 20.9. There are actually instructions out on the web about calibrating the sensor while driving the car for cars that cut fuel when decelerating. Mine is reading 21.3 right now on decel so time to calibrate it again. For cars that are tracked, the advice from innovate is to do it after every track event.

If it is not a calibration issue, I would start troubleshooting by checking your fuel pressure at the pump and at the rail. Could be a faulty fuel pump.
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Old 09-24-2018, 12:11 AM   #68
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Whats the PN for that “head temp sensor”? I have an M44, totally stock engine and im having the same hot start issues. WhenI search I only find coolant temp sensors, but nothing on head temp.
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Old 10-04-2018, 07:59 PM   #69
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I fixed the problem. It was a bad non return valve in the fuel pump so I spliced in a new one in line and now its all good.


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Old 10-06-2018, 12:36 PM   #70
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I know the check valve is integral to the fuel pump assembly.
Did you install an external check valve?
Where did you get the external check valve?
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Old 10-06-2018, 08:46 PM   #71
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Yes I went external in line with the hose coming off the fuel pump. Check valve nipple size is 8mm or 5/16”, I bought it off Amazon. You will also need 2 clamps in the appropriate size, and about 6in of 5/16 FUEL LINE. It absolutely must be FUEL LINE. Otherwise the fuel will degrade other hoses.


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Old 11-02-2018, 08:23 PM   #72
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Default warm engine start problem.

Update. Hard starts when warm has returned. After some research ive found it could be either a bad or dirty MAF, or a faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator. FPR seems to be cheaper, so once I figure out how to swap out that unit ill post the results.

Heres a video of what my car does. This was after a 30 minute drive:

https://youtu.be/c1Lb9B3c9vc

Last edited by Estii; 11-02-2018 at 10:08 PM.
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Old 11-02-2018, 10:06 PM   #73
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Default warm engine start problem.

Also the car runs really bad and has almost no power if i have the evap purge valve plugged in. So i just leave it unplugged and i have very little power under 3k rpm. Once i reach 3k or higher there is a noticable gain in power.


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Last edited by Estii; 11-02-2018 at 10:14 PM.
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