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Old 01-20-2008, 03:14 AM   #16
classicronnie
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where would i go about getting one of those switches, could it have happened wiring my stereo?
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Old 01-20-2008, 01:23 PM   #17
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To answer your second question: yes, if you shorted a gray/red illumination power wire to the chassis. A not uncommon way is to catch and pinch such a wire with something as you (re)install it.
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Old 01-20-2008, 06:35 PM   #18
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Thanks for the pics cooljess, I apparently had more screws to remove other than the two obvious ones. Maybe next time the dash will come out a bit easier...
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Old 01-20-2008, 11:52 PM   #19
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Found a place on the net with a price for headlight switches for about $28. Here's the link:

http://www.trademotion.com/splash/in...?siteid=214672

Part number: 61318353508
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Old 01-21-2008, 12:16 AM   #20
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is the foglight switch the same as the other one?
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Old 01-21-2008, 12:56 AM   #21
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no, it's a different part number and it doesn't have an integrated dimmer. The plugs are different also.
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Old 01-21-2008, 03:57 AM   #22
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I do believe that this is the part number for the fog light switch: 61318353504
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Old 01-22-2008, 02:22 AM   #23
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link to the switch for the foglight switch
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Old 01-22-2008, 04:01 AM   #24
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I seem to have the same problem: dashboard lights and lights on heater etc. don't work. Only one light works inside, the little reading light over your head, but only if I turn it on. License plate light does work.
I just bought the car, and it has a new stereo unit, so maybe the guy messed up some wiring? How do I check if this "headlight switch" is the problem?

Also, the power windows don't work. When I click the button it makes some sound, and on the right window it makes a horrible sound if I press it for too long, but the window doesn't seem to move. Any idea how to fix this?

Thanks.
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Old 01-22-2008, 09:00 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humanliberty View Post
Also, the power windows don't work. When I click the button it makes some sound, and on the right window it makes a horrible sound if I press it for too long, but the window doesn't seem to move. Any idea how to fix this?

Thanks.
Might be that your window is off the track, seems to be a common problem with ti's
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Old 01-23-2008, 11:21 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classicronnie View Post
link to the switch for the foglight switch
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...98&hg=61&fg=35
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Old 01-23-2008, 06:28 PM   #27
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the one tats $41.04?
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Old 01-24-2008, 12:01 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by classicronnie View Post
the one tats $41.04?
headlight switch - 61318353508 ($33.76) or 61318353506(Z3, M Coupe switch will also work)

foglight switch - 61318353504 ($41.01)
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Old 01-24-2008, 12:20 AM   #29
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If the dashlights aren't working might the cause of the blown dimmer still be there? In other words, replacing the part might just make it blow up again? How do I find out whether some wiring was done incorrectly..? Thanks
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Old 01-24-2008, 02:43 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humanliberty View Post
If the dashlights aren't working might the cause of the blown dimmer still be there? In other words, replacing the part might just make it blow up again? How do I find out whether some wiring was done incorrectly..? Thanks
Good point, that's an issue that I had to face. I spent months chasing my tail thinking that I was blowing the switch each time I plugged it in when in fact the problem was that I received 3 bad switches in a row from the junkyard.

The switch generally starts to wear the rheostat out, causing your dash lights to flicker at the slightest movement of the knob. From what I've seen, the switch finally gives in when someone interrupts the circuitry by say installing a stereo or shorts out one of the many grey/red instrument illumination wires.

If you suspect that you have a short, DON'T plug a new switch in until you find the problem. You'll need a digital multimeter to check all of the wires.
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