Belt slap with DASC - Page 2

JP422 · 08-30-2010, 05:57 PM

For pully location, I plan to just remove the nut, and measure (micrometer) how much the shaft sticks out. Then check thickness of the pulley and how long the actual shaft is (back to the bearing or any other stop I can use).

My coolant leak is going to be annoying to get to (gotta remove the SC again), but it does give me an opportunity to revisit everything again, so hopefully I can make it all perfect...

****Update**** Well, I just got off the phone w/ Jim Goodroe (DA) and I was asking him how the pulley should be located, and what holds it. He explained to me the SC shaft has a very slight taper to it, and the pulley should have a corresponding taper as well. No washers, etc. behind it to stop the pulley. I gues this explains the snug fit. He says as long as the pulley is snug, and there's no wobble, it should be fine. Also make sure to have red threadlock on the nut. So, I think I should be ok as far as this SC pulley location issue goes~

**xxxJohnBoyxxx** · 08-31-2010, 01:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JP422

****Update**** Well, I just got off the phone w/ Jim Goodroe (DA) and I was asking him how the pulley should be located, and what holds it. He explained to me the SC shaft has a very slight taper to it, and the pulley should have a corresponding taper as well. No washers, etc. behind it to stop the pulley. I gues this explains the snug fit. He says as long as the pulley is snug, and there's no wobble, it should be fine. Also make sure to have red threadlock on the nut. So, I think I should be ok as far as this SC pulley location issue goes~

Wow Jim is saying it's ok to not have the pulley backed against the S/C shaft? Did he give you a torque for that nut?

I need a big helping of crow pie after all this.

JP422 · 08-31-2010, 02:04 AM

Hahahahaha.... yea, I kinda got that feeling... Ok, I guess I'll still pull the pulley off again and measure (mic) everything. Worse case, I might setup some washers to help bottom out the pulley.

I wonder how all the other DASC guys are setup? I mean, my car couldnt be that off byitself.. could it?

**xxxJohnBoyxxx** · 08-31-2010, 02:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JP422

Hahahahaha.... yea, I kinda got that feeling... Ok, I guess I'll still pull the pulley off again and measure (mic) everything. Worse case, I might setup some washers to help bottom out the pulley.

I wonder how all the other DASC guys are setup? I mean, my car couldnt be that off byitself.. could it?

I doubt it. Pat Nosker or Pnosker on the board & Marko are the heavy hitters now boosting high since I went turbo. There are a lot of them on here and I don't remember anyone ever not pulling that pulley in tight.

Also I've known Jim Goodroe for a while and have done a lot of talking with him. He gets confused unless you explain everything in detail. He is a good old boy and will say "yea as long as it's tight" not thinking the pulley is not drawn all the way in on the shaft. There is a slight taper, and I mean so slight I doubt you can measure it unless you have good calipars. The pulley is suppose to pull right off after the nut is removed without a puller but be a snug fit. Magnuson builds the S/C and they are very helpful. Call them if you want the real truth. There is a guy in the back that know everything you want to know about them, he helped me when Jim couldn't when I wanted to do the 2.8" pulley on my stroker motor and spin the S/C 15,000+rpm.

JP422 · 08-31-2010, 02:27 AM

LOL... interesting. Ok. I'll take it apart first, inspect, measure, and see what my intuition and common sense tells me.

Thanks again John!

denglish318ti · 09-01-2010, 11:29 AM

Not sure my issue is an alignment problem as I took off the belt and took a ruler to the alternator and power steering pulley and they lined up great with the charger pulley. I did notice that the idler pulley had a bit of a rocking play in it, so I am going to try and change the pulleys and hopefully it will be ok. The pulley that I was using between the alternator and charger was a BMW belt deflection pulley, but maybe it is not up to the job.

I am going to use timing belt idler pulleys as hopefully these will be a bit stronger. Are the lips on the pulleys important? On one of there is only a lip on the outside edge.

Bit worried I have not found the real problem and when I put new pulleys on it will happen again.

JP422 · 09-01-2010, 06:20 PM

Do you happen to have a pic of your setup (sorry if I missed it)... What idler pulleys are you using?

The DASC kit originally uses no factory idler pulleys... except for the one on the tensioner. DA supplies 2 pulleys (composite material w/ red bearing seals). The DA pulley that mounts to the special DA plate has 2 lips, while the other DA pulley that mounts next to the Alternator has 1 lip (on the outside).

From what i heard, these DA pulleys (idlers) are not the most robust, and can wear or fail quickly. If you want replacements, DA sells them (almost $50 for the pair), or if you can find any good heavy duty alternatives, please let us know.

As for belt slap, is your belt tensioner in good condition? Personally, I'd replace them from 75-100k miles.

Good luck!

m44lee · 01-05-2012, 02:50 PM

i gather with downing not making the supercharger kits anymore that they probably dont sell the idler pulley's anymore? plus i've heard they dont last that long? mine are still fine at the mo but i'd like to have some spares ready so the car isnt off the road while i wait for a set
so does anyone have a link to some that are tried and tested?

m44lee · 01-05-2012, 02:57 PM

there's quite a few people on here with dasc's but a lack of pics i may have to get another thread going!

Monolith · 01-05-2012, 02:58 PM

If you get Jim Goodroe to respond, please post. I sent him an email more than a month ago about getting spare pulley's and never got a reply. I completely forgot about it.

denglish318ti · 02-02-2012, 10:58 PM

They are rubbish anyway, go for some cam belt idler pulleys. The ones with double row ball bearings are the best. I got some off a Land Rover. Any will do as long as it has a flat face with a M10 hole (I think). Just look on ebay for them. Should last the lifetime of the kit then.

Monolith · 02-02-2012, 11:14 PM

If you know of a current auction, a link would be much appreciated.

**maverick** · 03-11-2012, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Monolith

If you get Jim Goodroe to respond, please post. I sent him an email more than a month ago about getting spare pulley's and never got a reply. I completely forgot about it.

I have been dealing with Jim lately making a used charger work and he was very helpful, but you will find a phone call works best.

Dave

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