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Old 02-08-2011, 02:54 AM   #1
318_mzk2
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Default official obdI m52 swap+mods and much more (318mzk2) :)

alright guy so finally im going to get started on my swap, parked the car today and swapped insurance to my 318i beater. and will begin to tare down my car very soon..
so for those who seen my last swap thread..no more m50..
in the thread below are pics of when i bought my car and some progress
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31449

now on to whats going to be done.

my plans are to convert it to obdI
obdI m52
race land headers $200
s52 cams $250
24lb injectors $100
ARD pulleys $150
3.5 hfm $100
war chip and tune $450
m3 jb racinng ltw flywheel/act 6 puck racing clutch $400
akg 75a motor/trans mounts $180
3.73 lsd diff $200
zf trans$300
zf drivesaft $100
short shifter..$120
75c t stat $24
obd1 coolant adapter $34.99
crank case gasket set $69.99
stewart water pump $170
head gasket set $190
head bolts $20x2
custom stainless steel exhaust $600
mishimoto radiator $150
rims and tires $900

most of all these parts i already have..or are ordered

i already started to take apart the motor since i will be doing new head gasket and all the other seals that i could possible think off now that the motor is out.i also will be welding the oil pump nut...

here are some pics of the m52 already on the stand



i did this today at work and im liking it .polished tstat housing
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:46 AM   #2
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i think the 3.73 would be a lil high ratio for this project, no? you'd go thru the gears pretty quickly. torque would be there for sure but top end not as much as a 3.25
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Marv's 332ti is in the werks. Stay tuned ya'll ...

Check list: S52 swap, manual transmission swap, 3.25 LSD with M Coupe diff cover, SuperSprint muffler, M3 style mirrors, AFE intake, ASC delete, M50 Manifold swap, UUC strut bar, ZHP lighted knob, Vaders, M-tech interior, OEM armrest, AC Schintzer front lip, AC Schnitzer rear spoiler, Roof spoiler, 18'' rims, M3 front drilled brakes, LED interior lights, 3 spoke Euro style steering wheel, OEM roof spoiler and bike holder, Thule fairing, Euro tail lights, oil pressure guage, carbon fiber hood painted to original paint (still showing CF weaving), what's next to do...?
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Old 02-08-2011, 03:00 PM   #3
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I rock out with 4.10, 3.73 is perfect.
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Old 02-09-2011, 03:32 AM   #4
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i have both. 4.10 lsd and a 3.73 lsd...

i was thinking on putting in the 4.10 but since i do alot of highway driving i bought the 3.73....maybe slap on the 4.10 when i take her to the drag strip...


soo today i ordered all my gaskets/seals..also ordered my turner chip. for my engine mods, bought some remus headers of a member on bf.c so the racelands are out..
i took out my oil filter housing and dipped in in hot water with acid for like 20 min to get all the gunk/oil off and cleaned up pretty well..ended up painting it silver..
ill post up picks tomorow and hopefully this weekend ill be taking the motor apart..
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Old 02-12-2011, 01:47 AM   #5
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yesterday was a productive day after work..spoke to my boss and got keys to the shop.. so now im got access to all the tools /light and a lift i need to make it all much easier..
after work i got the car inside the shop just with plans of removing the whole front end apart and then i decided to go on with the rest..in a total of 2.5 hours the whole swap was out...

i also cleaned up and painted my oil filter housing...and got stated on my engine bay..
here are some pics




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Old 02-12-2011, 01:49 AM   #6
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Old 02-12-2011, 01:52 AM   #7
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sorry for all the crappy iphone pics..
just waiting to receive more parts..and to get started on the wiring on the car...im thinking about relocating the fusebox some where inside under the dash.if its possible...im thinking about having the car ready and running in the time period of a month and a half.


if you guys have any suggestions ..chip in ..

enjoy
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Old 02-12-2011, 01:53 AM   #8
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Nice progress. IMO, the 4.10 is a bit on the short side for the drag strip. You may actually go through all 5 gears before you hit the finish. I topped my 4.10 with 225/45/17s this morning at 127 (on the rev limiter). 5th comes in around 107-110ish. Relocating the box inside, feasible, but not worth it. When you get other there, theres just looms of crap bound already under the drivers side, id consider just leaving it.
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Old 02-12-2011, 02:27 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluebimma View Post
Nice progress. IMO, the 4.10 is a bit on the short side for the drag strip. You may actually go through all 5 gears before you hit the finish. I topped my 4.10 with 225/45/17s this morning at 127 (on the rev limiter). 5th comes in around 107-110ish. Relocating the box inside, feasible, but not worth it. When you get other there, theres just looms of crap bound already under the drivers side, id consider just leaving it.
yea it is kinda of a pita..i just want to remove it so i get a all of the engine bay painted for fresh clean look.

yea i bet the gears go like noting..i remember i had a 4.44lsd on my 318i last year when i swaped in the m50 on my car and if i remember i think i tapped out in 5th at 112
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Old 02-12-2011, 02:31 AM   #10
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I know what you mean, heres my m50 chipped with the 4.44.



Getting behind that fuse box isnt impossible but pulling it out is a pain.
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Old 02-12-2011, 02:50 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluebimma View Post
I know what you mean, heres my m50 chipped with the 4.44.



Getting behind that fuse box isnt impossible but pulling it out is a pain.

damm jajaj.. the tach needle barely goes down ...

yea the more i think about it the less i want to do it...i dont want to end up messing up some wiring and get screwed later on.. ill see if i can get aroudn it ..maybe just unbolt it from the fire wall so it moves ..
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Old 02-12-2011, 03:00 AM   #12
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I think unbolting it lets you move it a little but youd have to get behind the dash, not sure if you have to take it out, i had mine out when i pulled my fuse box. There are four 10mm nuts and looms of wiring, you may be able to get some play, otherwise, cover and spray around i guess lol.
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Old 02-12-2011, 03:13 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluebimma View Post
I think unbolting it lets you move it a little but youd have to get behind the dash, not sure if you have to take it out, i had mine out when i pulled my fuse box. There are four 10mm nuts and looms of wiring, you may be able to get some play, otherwise, cover and spray around i guess lol.
yea i been looking for info but have found now...

i guess thats going to be the only way....

any suggestions on rear shocks...ive still got the ones i bought from rokkor and really want to get some adjustable ones.. koni sports any good?
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Old 02-12-2011, 03:23 AM   #14
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Though most people frown upon things i do but im purchasing KONI for my C57 project. The rears im getting for the 2003 Ford mustang Cobra. Theyre adjustable, correct length, bolt pattern setup, and heavy duty. They require our aftermarket rear shock mount for the larger center opening. They are 40$ each if im not mistaken, sometimes cheaper. I know Tokico makes them for 30 something in adjustable format. Going with 328 sport Koni yellows up front, non-ajustable, 96$ a piece. Debating on Eibach or another brand of springs, possibly progressive H&R race springs and a shorter, heavier, rear spring to get low enough to make my custom diffusor effective.
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Old 02-12-2011, 03:41 AM   #15
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cool so cobra rear shocks w/ rear aftermarket rsm...12mm?

so your not keeping the coilover setup on the c57 ti?
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