LED Angel Eyes: Ignition on 12v+ power

[BlackBMWs]

Question for those of you that are more electrical knowledgeable than I.

I am finally getting around to powering up my LED angel eyes and want to only have them on when my ignition is on/car running.

In another thread on Depo headlight replacement, the main identifiable possibility was the output from the starter relay. I did have a few minutes before it got dark to run a meter across different fuse circuits and found fuses 4 and 6 on my 1997 ti. Bentley says fuse 4 (15A) goes to a unloader relay and fuse 6 (30A) goes to the rear defroster. These are the two red fuses in the upper right of the photo. 4 is the lower red fuse, 6 is above it.

Since I have no idea what a unloader relay feeds, I figured fuse 6 sounds like a good candidate, any better choice here?

So to get to the wiring for fuse 6, I need to get to the wiring feeding the fuse socket and tap into the load side of the socket. I loosened the four torx screws and the 13mm nut for the power feed to the fuse box. (Yellow dot and cross mark)

The upper portion of the fuse box is loose, but it wont lift off. I removed the three relay sockets on the upper left of the photo. Are there any other connections, screws or nuts I need to remove to lift the fuse panel? Do I have to disengage all the relay sockets inside the bezel to have the bezel/fuse carriers lift up?



I stopped for the evening as it was getting dark, I figured I do a little research and carry on in the morning.

I did jumper the Angel eyes to check the color and these LEDs are plenty bright. They tested exactly as I want them to work. it'll be nice to get them operational for good.



I need to drop the aim a little bit, but these have been a nice improvement.



Anyway, thanks for any help you can offer here. I'll head over to research other E36 forums as well and report here what I find as far as lifting the fuse bezel.

Cheers!

[BlackBMWs]

A little more research, there's not much info on any of the forums. Most tie into the corners to turn on with the parking lights.

If I can believe the bentley manual, If I can locate the Red wire/Brown stripe, that should be the load side of Fuse 6 going to the Defroster relay. I'm hoping I can fish the Red/Brn wire without pulling the fuse box bezel. So, what I can't yet confirm is a relay reference to confirm which relay is which for the 97 318ti. I suspect the E36 Coupe/Sedan relay positioning will be different and those are the references I have been finding.

Anyone have a relay diagram for a 97-98 M44 318ti's?

This I believe is for a E36 Coupe or Sedan


Thanks! Rich

[John Firestone]

I hope you retightened the 13mm power feed bolt before you reconnected the battery. I would not drive the car with it loose. I have never loosened it from the top side if it is the bolt I am thinking of. All the electrical ring terminals I know of and have added are at the other end.

The fuse box top is held down by the four, long, self-tapping Torx screws at the corners. I pretty much have to remove mine, well beyond just loosening them, before the top is free. The outer one near the firewall could be a nuisance to get out: it needs a long driver, but not too long.

Have you looked at the BMW ETM wiring diagrams for the 318ti? They are much more detailed and specific than the Bentley manual condensation.

[BlackBMWs]

Hi John! Good reminder for the ETM manual. I haven't referenced that in years, but have it loaded on my garage laptop. I'll go have a look. I opened it years ago referencing for work my M62TU, but. not since and not for the M44/318ti. Perhaps I've been missing out.

As for the 13mm nut, although I have not driven it since working on it, I did retighten it before I buttoned the car up for the night. I'll zip around in my other ti till this work is done.

The four Torx screws are still loosened as I'll carry on after I look through the ETM. In removing the Torx, didja just pull straight up on them? No c-rings on the other side retaining the screws in the Bezel? I didn't want to break the 17 year old fuse box.

BTW, I now understand what function the Unloader relay performs. That could be an option, I just don't want to have the underdash apart as well, but is a good option when I get to a seat warmer option.

Thanks for the reminder John!

Rich

[John Firestone]

I am tempted to write that the four Torx screws are tenacious, but mostly I think they are just long and hold down the fuse box top piece until they are almost completely out.

The ETM has a lot of useful detail, for example, wire sizes, and junction and component locations. I spend a fair amount of time studying it before I take the car apart: to get and explore ideas, and to create a thorough plan of action.

I was looking for a similar signal at one time, to switch my DRLs. I thought I might tie them through a relay to the fuel pump signal, but came up with enough refinements during planning to decide to go whole hog and throw in a microcontroller. I have the DRLs ramp up when you first start moving and fade off after you switch off the ignition.

Have you thought of what specific behavior(s) to give your angel eyes?

[BlackBMWs]

Good reference to someone else's experiences in breaking and removing a fuse box.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...oving-Fuse-Box

I'm hoping I can see the Red/brn wire from the topside and recover it with a hookpick to avoid pulling the fuse bezel off at this point. I'm counting that there is enough slack with the bezel on to do this.

The hardest part in this is figuring out an easy method to tap into power for the behavior I want without creating other system issues.. I did spot where I could tap into the fuel relay which is outside the fuse box, but that would be plain dumb. I figure the rear defroster circuit would not impede engine management. When this works, I trust it will help someone else with less hassle moving forward. (Disclamer: proceed at you own risk. )

I will definitely have a cup of coffee before proceeding.

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Oops, Haha, Just saw your comment on the Fuel Pump relay John, No disrespect to you in my reference above. I figured I didn't want to chance impacting fuel management with Angel eye power. I have read your feedback to folks over these last couple of years and appreciate you'd take the time to comment here.

I like the idea of more specific information in the ETM. The Bentley dosent have wire gauge, so I assume based on the size of the circuit fuse what gauge it is, then confirm it when I am actually into the work. Luckly I'm not in a hurry, so I have the luxury of time to try to do it more right than wrong.

Angel eye behavior? Off unless key is in ignition on position. Then if ignition is on, the function in a DRL like fashion as well as being on when the parking lights or headlights are on, if that's what you mean.

I have my first cup of coffee in hand. My comprehension will hopefully increase in about 20 minutes.

[John Firestone]

I have added fuse and relay contacts, and found and added to comb terminal splices in the bowels of the fuse box. I have never had to remove more than the four corner Torx screws to gain sufficient access.

I mentioned the fuel pump to suggest the sort of ideas you can get while perusing the ETM with a problem in mind. I had not thought about whether it makes any sense to have it switch a pair of angel eyes. I considered using it for my DRLs because I did not need or want them to come on until I was ready to drive off. In the end, the car procrastinates even longer. If you decide to use the fuel pump signal, the ETM might suggest a way to tap in without excavating and splicing wires.

[BlackBMWs]

Yes, now that I have my first cup of coffee and it's warmer here now in freezing California. (BBrrrrr, 48 degrees, no flip flops this morning... ) I'll head to the garage and retrieve my reference laptop for the ETM.

You are one of the few, at least on this or a few other forums that are knowledgeable and experienced in this area. Thanks for your great feedback!

[BlackBMWs]

So, pulled my garage laptop.

• Carsoft
• TIS
• ETK
• EBA
• Not fully configured INPA

But no ETM... I think I confused it with TIS or ETK. Going back through my CD/DVD's no ETM to be found. Either way, I'll locate one for reference, it may just not be today.

I'll search for any online reference. if not, I'll have to rely on my Bentley and a meter,

Thanks John!

[John Firestone]

Originally Posted by BlackBMWs

... You are one of the few, at least on this or a few other forums that are knowledgeable and experienced in this area. Thanks for your great feedback!

You are quite welcome. I am not sure I am all that knowledgeable or experienced, but I do try to understand the details and not write about things I don't know. Some threads would be a lot shorter if folks would do more of that. But probably more dull.

I appreciate your replies. I have pretty much given up posting on some other forums because most of the time I could not tell if anyone had read what I had written.

[BlackBMWs]

I figure if I ask, I definitely will read it.

More often than not, it simply takes the insight of someone else who has done it already to shed some light on a topic. Pretty much why I value these forums and try to give back a bit when I can.

Thanks for the ETM tip, I did search and downloaded a PDF from the UK. Way easier to read on my 27" monitor.

I'll pull the Torx screws out and get to validating and connecting up power. I'll report back here for future reference what worked and perhaps (hopefully not) what didn't.

Cheers, Rich

[John Firestone]

Originally Posted by BlackBMWs

Angel eye behavior? Off unless key is in ignition on position. Then if ignition is on, the function in a DRL like fashion as well as being on when the parking lights or headlights are on, if that's what you mean....

It is perhaps a little unusual, but nothing wrong, to want the angel eyes to come on with either the parking llghts or the ignition (presumably in position 2). I would expect a pair of LED angel eyes would draw a modest enough current that you could achieve that by logically or-ing the two signals with a couple rectifier diodes, or a hunky bridge rectifier, say, with push-on terminals if you prefer crimping to soldering. I kind of like the idea of a hunky bridge rectifier, clamped to some metal. You could protect it with the same fuse that protects the wiring [see EDIT!].

EDIT: Upon further thought, strike that. A diode would probably burn out before a slow automotive fuse could open. Estimate the diode's i^2t pulse capability and compare it to the fuse's.

[pdxmotorhead]

Un-loader relay usually makes sure the AC compressor is not engaging clutch while cranking, kills power to things that don't need to be on while cranking...

[BlackBMWs]

Success! The issue with the Fuse Box bezel is that I hadn't backed the Torx screws out fully. So, to confirm, there are four Torx screws holding the bezel in place. The 13mm distribution is attached to the Bezel, but is not securing it to the lower case. It is just more convenient to remove it as well. In removing the Torx screws, when you can see 3/4 inch of the rear screws threads, you can jiggle the Bezel out. I was able to get it high enough to release a tie wrap around a bundle of wiring that constricted the bezel from moving higher.

Once I got the bezel high enough to see under Fuses 1-10 I isolated #6 and it was actually a green wire with a white stripe. After confirming again with a meter and checking ignition position 0, 1 and 2, I spliced into it and got the results I was looking for.


I Dremeled a notch in the lower case and positioned a 1/4" wire sheath to protect the new wire and placed a female spade connector near the fuse box in the event I need to remove the loom in the future.



Converted the supplied wiring loom into a spade male pigtail where the two wires meet and female spade connectors on the ends of each angel eye power wire. I forgot to take a picture of the converted loom.


I ran ends of the converted wire loom to each headlight assembly tiewrapping to existing wiring along the way. Heat shrank each connection end




Functionally, it works as I wanted and they look great in the daytime and bright at night. Hopefully not too bright to upset anyone. On par with the new Audi or Benz LEDs as far a brightness, so I suspect I'll be OK.


Lousy iPhone picture. The eyes are actually defined, but bright. Finally got some rain just at the end of the wiring work.


I will swap out the 6000k D2S HID bulbs as they are too blue for my visual preferences, although they look cool. I have a pair of 4300k bulbs ordered.

John, thanks for your help today, got me off to a great start. Next mod will be a self dimming rear mirror from a E34.

Cheers!

Originally Posted by John Firestone

It is perhaps a little unusual, but nothing wrong, to want the angel eyes to come on with either the parking llghts or the ignition (presumably in position 2). I would expect a pair of LED angel eyes would draw a modest enough current that you could achieve that by logically or-ing the two signals with a couple rectifier diodes, or a hunky bridge rectifier, say, with push-on terminals if you prefer crimping to soldering. I kind of like the idea of a hunky bridge rectifier, clamped to some metal. You could protect it with the same fuse that protects the wiring.

A little more involved than I am familiar with I'm afraid...

Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead

Un-loader relay usually makes sure the AC compressor is not engaging clutch while cranking, kills power to things that don't need to be on while cranking...

Thanks Dave! Good to know.

[John Firestone]

Originally Posted by BlackBMWs

I will swap out the 6000k D2S HID bulbs, I have a pair of 4300k bulbs ordered.

It would be fun if I could mod my exterior lighting with HID lighting, but it must satisfy the TÜV. I will be curious if any Audi drivers show their appreciation for your angel eyes. After changing my interior lighting to the most popular shade, 6000-7000K, of white LED, I am now slowly converting it to a 4500K neutral white.

John, thanks for your help today, got me off to a great start.

You bet.

A little more involved than I am familiar with I'm afraid...

That makes two of us. I mulled over my suggestion a little and doubt an automotive fuse could protect the diodes. (I'll add a comment to the post.) Instead, I was going to suggest what BMW probably would have done, use a relay with normally open and closed contacts, and what you did?