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Old 10-31-2005, 08:35 PM   #16
Severian
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Ah! I found this so far from realoem.com

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...99&hg=64&fg=20

I can see where the bowden cable lies behind the control panel, I suppose the question is whether the other end of that cable properly opens the flap at the heater box, found at the other end?
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Old 10-31-2005, 09:17 PM   #17
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Correct. You have to take the glove box out of the car, its only 6 screws or so, unhook the glove box light and switch wires. Then take out the knee bolster, its only 4 10mm bolts. Then unhook the heater vent for the passenger side. Then you can see the other end of the cable and the flap it opens.
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Old 10-31-2005, 09:57 PM   #18
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Awesome, thanks. I will definitely try this.
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Old 11-01-2005, 03:29 AM   #19
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Hey Severian, sorry I did'nt get back to ya on your how to burp question, wife is in hospital so i been out of the house and away from my laptop. Looks like breeze30 got it covered hope it works out let us know.

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Old 11-01-2005, 02:31 PM   #20
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Thank you for the reply, vwt3. I hope everything turns out okay with your wife, that's more important!
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Old 12-02-2005, 01:31 AM   #21
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I have another update guys. I'm in the midst of attempting this repair. So far I have

* taken off the glove box and the knee bolster
* I see a flap for the FOOT vents, and that seems to be opening & closing fine. I have yet to remove the passenger face vent.
* attempted to bleed the coolant system using the small, black plastic screw next to the coolant cap

Strange...as I stood by my engine and waited for coolant (or air) to come out of that hole that the plastic screw plugged, nothing happened. I waited a good 10 minutes with the engine idling, but no coolant came out. Is this indicative of a problem? I assumed coolant would eventually rise and start pouring out. The temp dial is smack at 50%.
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Old 12-02-2005, 01:57 AM   #22
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Nother update, holy **** you guys were right!! I removed the floor vent tube on the passenger side and can see the yellow lever and the bowden cable. It was NOT pulling the lever far enough toward the inside of the cab to fully open the heater...it was mixing hot and cold air. Awesome!!

Now another problem, the little metal clamp came OFF of the yellow lever, so I'm stuck trying to put the clamp back on before I figure out how to make it stay. Looking at the assembly I must think to myself...this is just waiting to happen. Kinda sad, huh? This tiny metal clamp attached to a little plastic lever.

I'll update you if i succeed in attaching it again. Thanks you guys, I never could've done this without you!
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Old 12-02-2005, 02:03 AM   #23
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Had the same problem with the dial on my 318ti. Adjusted the cable and now I got heat.
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Old 12-02-2005, 02:10 AM   #24
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I found the problem. A piece of yellow plastic at the end of the Bowden cable USED to clip to the heat duct near the lever to hold the cable in place. That piece of yellow plastic broke, so I assume I'll need a new cable. How in god's name will I get to the other end of this cable, I don't need to take the dash apart, will I?? Can I just take out the heat/radio panel??

Oh boy...

The cable is cable A in this picture, and the clip is part B. That clip snapped. Anyone know what I can do to fix this? Do I need the new part I wonder...

hmmm
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Old 12-02-2005, 02:18 AM   #25
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I believe the fix is to pop the cable back on and drill a small hole and use a screw it hold it.
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Old 12-02-2005, 02:33 AM   #26
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Man...this is disheartening. It's VERY hard to work in that area, and unfortunately it's impossible for me to pop the cable back on because the plastic tab that SHOULD click into place on the duct broke off. Therefore I have a bowden cable that's flapping around and I have nowhere to drill a hole, or reattach it to the duct.

I'm kicking around the idea of drilling a hole, then using very stiff twine to tie the cable back into place. I don't know how I'll drill...I'll need to hand drill a hole or punch it or something.
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Old 12-02-2005, 03:04 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Severian
The cable is cable A in this picture, and the clip is part B. That clip snapped. Anyone know what I can do to fix this? Do I need the new part I wonder...

hmmm
do you have the pic?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Severian
I'm kicking around the idea of drilling a hole, then using very stiff twine to tie the cable back into place. I don't know how I'll drill...I'll need to hand drill a hole or punch it or something.
would you be able to get a hand tap in there?
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acquired and awaiting install: heated seat kit, cali top switch relo, lumbar support kit, park distance control kit, heated washer nozzle kit, m-coupe rear subframe, trailing arms, differential, and halfshafts, m-coupe front/rear brakes with master cylinder, under hood light kit, mud flaps, rear sun blind, auto-dimming rear view mirror, tilt steering wheel retrofit, apexcone 5000K HIDs with 55W ballasts




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Old 12-02-2005, 03:24 AM   #28
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A great time for the digital camera base to stop functioning. Damn kodak and their stupid proprietary hippy crap.

I'm gonna try to rig something. But thanks so much for your help you guys. OT, but any guesses why "burping" my coolant system didn't lead to coolant coming out that plastic screw?
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Old 12-02-2005, 03:53 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Severian
A great time for the digital camera base to stop functioning. Damn kodak and their stupid proprietary hippy crap.
i was cursing my minolta today too ... i just love the autofocus, especially when it DOESN'T! pos ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Severian
I'm gonna try to rig something. But thanks so much for your help you guys. OT, but any guesses why "burping" my coolant system didn't lead to coolant coming out that plastic screw?
sorry, one of many things i haven't done myself yet. i posted the bentley manual instructions before though, try to find that thread and see what it says.
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1996 318ti, California package, 267k miles
current mods: bilstein sports, bavauto springs, e30 m3 LCABs, solid metal ball joints, bavauto RSMs w/reinforcements, e30 3.73 LSD & halfshafts, supersprint cat-back exhaust, turner rear sway bar reinforcements, IE poly subframe & RTABs + camber/toe kits, powdercoated e36 32x front calipers, sport mirrors, H&R 28mmF/19mmR sway bars, x-brace, auto solutions SSK w/poly bushing upgrade, BMW CD43 head unit, DICE HD Radio w/iPod integration and "stealth" HD antenna, staggered style 68s, orange electronic TPMS, leather arm rest, JT Designs metal undertray

acquired and awaiting install: heated seat kit, cali top switch relo, lumbar support kit, park distance control kit, heated washer nozzle kit, m-coupe rear subframe, trailing arms, differential, and halfshafts, m-coupe front/rear brakes with master cylinder, under hood light kit, mud flaps, rear sun blind, auto-dimming rear view mirror, tilt steering wheel retrofit, apexcone 5000K HIDs with 55W ballasts




2002 X5 4.4 Sport Package, 53.5k miles
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Old 12-02-2005, 03:58 AM   #30
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Well, mission accomplished, at least 95%. I found a thin metal bracket laying around that I bent 90 degrees, and it traps the metal cable next to the duct, effectively reattaching it to the duct and allowing 95% range of motion for the yellow lever. Unfortunately when the lever comes 95% of the way it hangs up on the screw that I used. If I ever feel the motivation i'll take it all apart and use a flathead screw. I didn't think about it at the time.

Again, you guys rock. Thanks for your support.
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