» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | looove 04-16-2024 01:18 PM 04-16-2024 01:18 PM 0 Replies, 1,014 Views | | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:45 PM 04-13-2024 11:45 PM 0 Replies, 390 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:43 PM 04-13-2024 11:44 PM 1 Replies, 288 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:40 PM 04-13-2024 11:41 PM 1 Replies, 297 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:38 PM 04-13-2024 11:39 PM 1 Replies, 310 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:36 PM 04-13-2024 11:37 PM 1 Replies, 300 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:35 PM 04-13-2024 11:35 PM 0 Replies, 273 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:34 PM 04-13-2024 11:34 PM 0 Replies, 293 Views | lolita porn 04-13-2024 11:33 PM 04-13-2024 11:33 PM 0 Replies, 260 Views | | | | | | 09-15-2009, 08:32 PM | #16 | NOBODY F's with the Jesus Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ventura California Posts: 7,824 | Low speed relay. IIRC it's the same part# as the high speed relay, swap them out and see if the problem switches. | | | 09-15-2009, 08:37 PM | #17 | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: TampaBay, Florida Posts: 104 | Fuse #41, a 30amp, supposed to be the auxilliary low speed fan has no fuse in that spot, nor is a female acceptance resepticle plug for a male fuse.? In post 5 did you mean Switch? I only see one fan, or is it a dual speed fan? If so, would one speed be bad? Coolant level is holding, Want to fix this fan issue, as worrying me to drive it and suddenly O-H ! | | | 09-15-2009, 08:49 PM | #18 | NOBODY F's with the Jesus Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ventura California Posts: 7,824 | Yeah it's just one fan with two speeds. Yeah I meant switch, but I don't know where it's located. | | | 09-15-2009, 08:55 PM | #19 | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: TampaBay, Florida Posts: 104 | Thank you for the GREAT HELP! I plan on babying out any leftover bubbles, replaceing the fan, crossing fingers. | | | 09-15-2009, 09:04 PM | #20 | Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Seattle Posts: 181 | Likely air in the system as suggested earlier, the car doesn't even really need a fan unless you're idling or sitting in traffic. | | | 09-15-2009, 10:48 PM | #21 | NOBODY F's with the Jesus Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ventura California Posts: 7,824 | Hopefully another bleeding will remedy the problem. If you do have airlock, coolant won't circulate and the temp sensors/switch won't get a proper reading. If later you still have cooling issues, I have an aux fan for sale: http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27791 Keep an eye on that temperature gauge, if it makes it to the red it's usually too late! Best of luck to ya, keep us posted | | | 09-16-2009, 04:17 PM | #22 | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: TampaBay, Florida Posts: 104 | #14, No notice of those yet, You guys brought attention to this air/bleed issue, These things are REALLY temperamental. Wife says " Just can't put in water?" TEE HEE, Nope, its a real luxury to know how its done, HA HA!!! Took fan out, low motor speed don't work. I should be able to find one, lots of bimms in U-pull-it boneyard. A clutch fan there is $9.99. Maybe one will work, and I can keep the A/C electic fan too. Since the high works! Friday is 1/2 off day! $1 to get in. | | | 09-25-2009, 04:48 PM | #23 | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: TampaBay, Florida Posts: 104 | Quote: Originally Posted by cooljess76 Low speed fan is triggered by temp sensor, high speed triggered by A/C. How did you go about bleeding the system? | I will replace temp sensor. Is that on the rad? I see one on the block too. | | | 09-26-2009, 07:28 PM | #24 | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: TampaBay, Florida Posts: 104 | All of the aforesaid posted problems did occur. UPDATE: The Fix, My problem is Solved! I replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor My low speed fan now works & cycles correctly If I now jumper the brown and bleck with green at radiator coolant switch I gave signal voltage Thanks to all who helped, Especially COOLJESS76 (he pointed out the trigger). I am so glad I don't need to replace ECM/DME This is the BEST FORUM ever. I learned how to understand FSM with the help of all...................I...Fixed .... a...BMW 318ti | | | 09-26-2009, 08:29 PM | #25 | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: TampaBay, Florida Posts: 104 | DAMN!!!!! Took for a drive and REDLINED AGAIN! No air, only coolant at bleed screw. I'll let cool then recheck. Fan works high & low. | | | 09-27-2009, 03:21 AM | #26 | Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: california Posts: 9 | I thought I had the similar problem, but I was able to fix mines yesterday. I thought my problem was the head gasket after replacing the thermostat and waterpump My 98 318ti overheated in the I-10, had it towed turned out the water pump bearings broke then cause the belts to snapped. Replaced the waterpump here the pic of the old one background car is a 325i Bought new belts then found out the Pulley on the top left near the Alternator Pulley came off don't know why. So I have to order a new pulley Got everything fixed up then the coolant won't circulate, since the heater was not working, thermostat was the problem. Remove everything turned out the thermostat was broken as well. Got everything fixed and up and ready to go turned out the plastic radiator decides to break with all the heat. Decided to replace all the hoses. Bought a radiator replacement. Fixed everything up the coolant circulate, heater works, and everything is up and running Parts I used. total is $514 in cost, but everything in the cooling system is up and working again. Radiator - $165 Water Pump - $70 Radiator Hoses - $60 Thermostat with housing gasket - $ 79 Coolant - $20 Engine Belts x2 - $60 Pulley - $35 Pulley Spacer - $15 Pulley Bolt and Cover - $10 | | | 09-28-2009, 05:48 AM | #27 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 | Quote: Originally Posted by Bills86e DAMN!!!!! Took for a drive and REDLINED AGAIN! No air, only coolant at bleed screw. I'll let cool then recheck. Fan works high & low. | Hate to ask a dumb question but is the car really overheating? is it hot, hot or maybe the gauge sensor is going bad and has a short in it causing the gauge to jump to redline. Does the gauge creep over to redline or move over there fast. Is it possible the new t-stat is pinned in the closed position? | | | 09-28-2009, 01:26 PM | #28 | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: TampaBay, Florida Posts: 104 | I had the heater on......YEAH.. it was HOT. I discovered last night I need to Burp it more as I found air at bleed after cooldown, and also now the switch quit too. I can jumper that and the low works, so I am going to find another and get it in. These engines just won't circulate if an air bubble is in there anywhere. Not anything like a normal GM or Ford! BURP! | | | 09-28-2009, 01:48 PM | #29 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 | Quote: Originally Posted by Bills86e I had the heater on......YEAH.. it was HOT. I discovered last night I need to Burp it more as I found air at bleed after cooldown, and also now the switch quit too. I can jumper that and the low works, so I am going to find another and get it in. These engines just won't circulate if an air bubble is in there anywhere. Not anything like a normal GM or Ford! BURP! | If you burped it good and it still is getting air in there I'm going to have to say the thing that no one wants to say. Bad head gasket. Why you ask. Well when they go bad they can leak exhaust in the coolant which would cause your air and also cause the coolant level to go below the fan sensor which will overheat it quick with the motor pumping exhaust in the cooling system it gets hot very fast. When I said hot I didn't mean heater I meant the eactual motor temp taken with a infraded temp reader on the head were the sensor is mounted or at the coolant sensor. I really hope I'm jumping the gun on the head gasket and want to be proved wrong but I've read the whole thread and it looks like you did everything right so far and still have the same issue... | | | 09-28-2009, 02:32 PM | #30 | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: TampaBay, Florida Posts: 104 | I have not seen any loss of coolant yet. After I get the temp switch replaced so the low fan cycles, and do the re-burp proceedure, and if have continued problems, What is the test for blown HG? Is it the Cooling System Pressure Test attached to the radiator at cap/tank on page 170-3? (Bently) I kill engine at RED, this is my 2nd engine. | | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |