318ti.org forum

Go Back   318ti.org forum > Technical, Maintenance and Modifications > Engine

Notices

Engine Tuneups, chips, wires, spark plugs.

.
» Recent Threads
1996 M44 Crank, no...
Today 09:36 PM
Last post by burner505
Today 09:36 PM
0 Replies, 1 Views
1996 5 speed feeler.
10-06-2018 05:30 PM
Last post by bazar01
Today 03:09 PM
9 Replies, 714 Views
Testing dual radiator...
08-05-2011 02:49 AM
Last post by bazar01
Today 10:42 AM
62 Replies, 38,073 Views
Error Code P0455
02-10-2006 02:57 PM
Last post by Estii
Today 03:02 AM
7 Replies, 3,323 Views
IMPORTANT: Two plastic...
05-16-2007 06:28 PM
Last post by weste46
10-16-2018 08:17 PM
167 Replies, 84,279 Views
New ti owner from Chicago
10-12-2018 09:28 PM
Last post by FunElan
10-15-2018 03:18 PM
5 Replies, 628 Views
Looking for running...
10-15-2018 03:06 AM
Last post by HellrotRuss
10-15-2018 03:06 AM
0 Replies, 217 Views
Oil Pan Cleaning
10-12-2018 02:46 AM
Last post by ZEK
10-14-2018 04:15 AM
3 Replies, 526 Views
NEED TO BUY BLACK SHIFT...
10-14-2018 03:29 AM
Last post by Estii
10-14-2018 03:29 AM
0 Replies, 158 Views
Bucking, loss of power...
10-11-2018 09:18 PM
Last post by BRADESTAR
10-14-2018 02:45 AM
1 Replies, 399 Views
Reply Share/Bookmark
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-21-2011, 03:56 PM   #61
blowin 4
Senior Member
 
blowin 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: san jose
Posts: 425
iTrader: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
I would say the gauge is not accurate. Maybe a exhaut leak or it needs to be calibrated per instructions. They doo need a claibration every 3-6 months. Lambda like idle and crusing should always be 14.7 and floating around there so I'm pretty sure your gauge is off
I agree with John I ran 440 cc with 20 psi on my dasc btw John did u do any upgrades to yr fuel rail lines or return hose?
blowin 4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2011, 04:53 PM   #62
xxxJohnBoyxxx
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gulfport, Florida
Posts: 3,208
iTrader: (1)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blowin 4 View Post
I agree with John I ran 440 cc with 20 psi on my dasc btw John did u do any upgrades to yr fuel rail lines or return hose?
I run 3/8" hose to the fuel rail and 3/8" back to the regulator. I think the 5/16" stock hose can only handle 275hp at 60+psi. Also the faster you run the more excelleration you have which caused issues with fuel pushing forward to the front of the car from the fuel tank from G-force so beware. I run 42psi idle and 58psi under boost on the 3/8" hose. I run a stock M3 pump with no RRFPR only stock regulator with boost on the vacuum port for the extra fuel pressure under boost. Injectors handle the extra fuel load under boost.

I will say when I ran my 9's 800hp 1971 Vega I needed 1/2" line but that was running at 7psi fuel pressure to the 406ci, NOS kit was a stand alone at 7psi on a 3/8" line with race gas for the spray
xxxJohnBoyxxx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2011, 10:07 PM   #63
marko
Senior Member
 
marko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,625
iTrader: (2)
Default

Ok, that makes a bit more sense actually... Gonna have it reset and see happens.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

I would say the gauge is not accurate. Maybe a exhaut leak or it needs to be calibrated per instructions. They doo need a claibration every 3-6 months. Lambda like idle and crusing should always be 14.7 and floating around there so I'm pretty sure your gauge is off
__________________
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/damiennn666/318ti5-1.jpg?t=1217269847
SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!
Metric Mechanic's 2.0 stroker/258' intake cam/42 lb. inj./remap/HD fuel pump
/DASC w.3' pulley @ 15psi/SNOW System/3.45 LSD/Billstein PSS coils
/Stromung Exhaust/DS1's/X-Brace/Front & Rear H&R Sways/OMP 300mm SW
/SAP delete/ASC+T delete/Hayabusa valve springs/MM's LTW flywheel
marko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2011, 06:15 AM   #64
blowin 4
Senior Member
 
blowin 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: san jose
Posts: 425
iTrader: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
I run 3/8" hose to the fuel rail and 3/8" back to the regulator. I think the 5/16" stock hose can only handle 275hp at 60+psi. Also the faster you run the more excelleration you have which caused issues with fuel pushing forward to the front of the car from the fuel tank from G-force so beware. I run 42psi idle and 58psi under boost on the 3/8" hose. I run a stock M3 pump with no RRFPR only stock regulator with boost on the vacuum port for the extra fuel pressure under boost. Injectors handle the extra fuel load under boost.

I will say when I ran my 9's 800hp 1971 Vega I needed 1/2" line but that was running at 7psi fuel pressure to the 406ci, NOS kit was a stand alone at 7psi on a 3/8" line with race gas for the spray
i mean did you run a line from the tank or any bigger lines back to tank or left it stock.
blowin 4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2011, 06:19 AM   #65
blowin 4
Senior Member
 
blowin 4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: san jose
Posts: 425
iTrader: (0)
Default

i bought a used g tech pro from ebay for $40 buck total garbage it keeps giving me readings of 0-60 in 7.2 7.3 lmfao im well in the low 4.6 4.8 for a fact based on a few cars that i have smoked on the road.
blowin 4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2011, 06:06 PM   #66
mohaughn
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,523
iTrader: (1)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx View Post
I would say the gauge is not accurate. Maybe a exhaut leak or it needs to be calibrated per instructions. They doo need a claibration every 3-6 months. Lambda like idle and crusing should always be 14.7 and floating around there so I'm pretty sure your gauge is off
Yeah, I would agree with this. Definitely pull the wideband O2 sensor from the bung and power up the sensor so that it comes up to full heat. You'll want it inopen air with no possibility that exhaust gas could be building up around you, even in small amounts.

It should read 20.9 in open air with no exhaust fumes around. Follow the instructions to get into the calibration menu and begin the calibration.

Another easy way to check the calibration is to get the car close to redline and then let off the gas, but do not disengage the transmission. When the car is decelerating it is not putting gas into the cylinders and you should see your AFR readings go to 20.9. There are actually instructions out on the web about calibrating the sensor while driving the car for cars that cut fuel when decelerating. Mine is reading 21.3 right now on decel so time to calibrate it again. For cars that are tracked, the advice from innovate is to do it after every track event.

If it is not a calibration issue, I would start troubleshooting by checking your fuel pressure at the pump and at the rail. Could be a faulty fuel pump.
mohaughn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2011, 11:46 PM   #67
marko
Senior Member
 
marko's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 1,625
iTrader: (2)
Default

Interesting... I read the gauge under such decel conditions (full throttle, then foot off the gas) and yes, it goes straight down to 22!

Fuel pump is the HD version metric installed...

However, since the car sat arround not being driven for a while... it does NOT throw CEL anymore.
i.e. It is leading me to belive that it is NOT 'adapting' anymore.

If you remember, it used to throw a CEL due to adaptation values...




Quote:
Originally Posted by mohaughn

Yeah, I would agree with this. Definitely pull the wideband O2 sensor from the bung and power up the sensor so that it comes up to full heat. You'll want it inopen air with no possibility that exhaust gas could be building up around you, even in small amounts.

It should read 20.9 in open air with no exhaust fumes around. Follow the instructions to get into the calibration menu and begin the calibration.

Another easy way to check the calibration is to get the car close to redline and then let off the gas, but do not disengage the transmission. When the car is decelerating it is not putting gas into the cylinders and you should see your AFR readings go to 20.9. There are actually instructions out on the web about calibrating the sensor while driving the car for cars that cut fuel when decelerating. Mine is reading 21.3 right now on decel so time to calibrate it again. For cars that are tracked, the advice from innovate is to do it after every track event.

If it is not a calibration issue, I would start troubleshooting by checking your fuel pressure at the pump and at the rail. Could be a faulty fuel pump.
__________________
http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh98/damiennn666/318ti5-1.jpg?t=1217269847
SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!
Metric Mechanic's 2.0 stroker/258' intake cam/42 lb. inj./remap/HD fuel pump
/DASC w.3' pulley @ 15psi/SNOW System/3.45 LSD/Billstein PSS coils
/Stromung Exhaust/DS1's/X-Brace/Front & Rear H&R Sways/OMP 300mm SW
/SAP delete/ASC+T delete/Hayabusa valve springs/MM's LTW flywheel
marko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2018, 11:11 PM   #68
Estii
Senior Member
 
Estii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: California
Posts: 177
iTrader: (0)
Default

Whats the PN for that “head temp sensor”? I have an M44, totally stock engine and im having the same hot start issues. WhenI search I only find coolant temp sensors, but nothing on head temp.
Estii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2018, 06:59 PM   #69
Estii
Senior Member
 
Estii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: California
Posts: 177
iTrader: (0)
Default

I fixed the problem. It was a bad non return valve in the fuel pump so I spliced in a new one in line and now its all good.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Estii is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2018, 11:36 AM   #70
bazar01
Senior Member
 
bazar01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Georgia
Posts: 576
iTrader: (0)
Default

I know the check valve is integral to the fuel pump assembly.
Did you install an external check valve?
Where did you get the external check valve?
Thanks.
__________________
1996 Ti 280k miles and still going....
1993 964 - holding on to this one
2001 Burban, 240k miles
2018 Suburban Z71
bazar01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2018, 07:46 PM   #71
Estii
Senior Member
 
Estii's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: California
Posts: 177
iTrader: (0)
Default

Yes I went external in line with the hose coming off the fuel pump. Check valve nipple size is 8mm or 5/16”, I bought it off Amazon. You will also need 2 clamps in the appropriate size, and about 6in of 5/16 FUEL LINE. It absolutely must be FUEL LINE. Otherwise the fuel will degrade other hoses.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Estii is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
warm start - no power 318ti_dad Engine 3 03-18-2009 12:27 AM
engine misfire and cold start problem 318technoviolet Engine 24 02-11-2009 10:04 PM
start-up problem UGU Maintenance 5 12-12-2006 03:35 AM
engine noise,whine,louder when engine warm jayzer Engine 1 05-30-2006 02:25 AM
Big Problem: Car won't start 1985mercurylynx Electrical 6 11-17-2004 01:48 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 09:39 PM.


.
Powered by site supporters
vBulletin Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1999 - 2018, 318ti.org
© vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2
[page compression: 113.39 k/133.50 k (15.06%)]

318ti.org does not warrant or assume any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any information or products discussed.