» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | | 318ti AMR500 ... 06-09-2023 09:43 PM 09-22-2023 10:21 PM 29 Replies, 22,506 Views | | | |  |  |  | | 05-06-2011, 08:38 PM | #16 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 | Wild guess. Rad cooling fan. I watched that video a few times now and the noise seems to be coming from there in my opinion... I hate diagonosis over the internet. I'm wrong 95% of the time. John S | | | 05-06-2011, 08:44 PM | #17 | Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Miami, FL Posts: 873 | Quote: Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx I hate diagonosis over the internet. I'm wrong 95% of the time. John S | LOL to that.. but yeah could be the rad fan.. as you know rust cause all kinda of problems and well radiators / rust make sense | | | 05-08-2011, 02:03 AM | #18 | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 242 | Quote: Originally Posted by trikzta LOL to that.. but yeah could be the rad fan.. as you know rust cause all kinda of problems and well radiators / rust make sense | Hmmm, that's a thought as well since the noise doesn't show up until the engine is warmed up a bit. Thanks all, I appreciate the input! | | | 05-15-2011, 08:24 PM | #19 | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 242 | Okay, took the belt off and spun the belt tensioner pulley and it is dryer than dehydrated sand. took the power steering pulley off and then got the bolts out but the tensioner isn't budging. I have looked for writeups or youtube videos but I haven't found a thing for our cars in particular. Can anyone tell me what I have missed on this? | | | 05-15-2011, 10:06 PM | #20 | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 242 | | | | 05-16-2011, 06:42 PM | #21 | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: texas Posts: 150 | you know next time you can spray some WD-40 around where the noise is...if it quiets, then you know its a bearing...or something like that... | | | 05-17-2011, 03:30 AM | #22 | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 242 | The reason that it never occurred to me to do that was because this is the first car that I have ever owned that has belt tensioners. I am too used to the old fashioned way when you had to get a crowbar or tire iron and crank drown on the alternator housing and at the same time try to tighten the alternator hold down bolt. almost 4 years and still learning... BTW, thanks to all about the hints as to the possible problems! Now, one more question: Working on this little project has shown me that I need to do something about the oil leaks on the front of the engine. Is there a writeup for this somewhere? The valve cover gasket seems to still be doing well, but I think I need to replace the oil housing gasket and whatever gasket is involved with covering the timing chain. I want to keep my engine as clean as possible! Last edited by bimmern00b; 05-17-2011 at 03:37 AM. | | | 05-17-2011, 05:41 AM | #23 | Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Miami, FL Posts: 873 | you dont want to remove the timing cover but the oil housing is an common fail there is a write up on how to do it on here.. i did mine a few weeks ago and no more leak on front of the block just needs a nice engine wash to clean all the grime __________________  Mods: 325is zender spoiler, 3" carbon fiber antenna, 5% tints rear windows, black out grills, Fogged air intake, Ds1 wheels, Rokkor coilovers, bilstein rear shocks, blacked out tails and home made angel eyes | | | 05-17-2011, 06:37 AM | #24 | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: texas Posts: 150 | I have the metal oil housing, I put some sealer around the big O ring and tighten that 13mm bolt, that has stopped the oil leak for me, could be something like that for your engine if its the metal oil filter housing seems like it was a bad design. | | | 05-18-2011, 05:38 AM | #25 | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 242 | Well, the belt tensioner did need replacing, but it didn't solve the problem. After listening to it some more today, this weekend I am taking the intake manifolds off and replacing all of the hoses underneath there and the crankcase vent since there is the hissing when I turn the engine off. I am forced to drive my ti like this because I cannot afford to miss my job interview and school! | | | 05-30-2011, 12:02 AM | #26 | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 242 | UPDATE: Cooljess and whoever else said that it was a bad crankcase valve are the win! Just put the new one on today and that crappy sound was gone and the nice steady idle has returned, thanks a lot to everyone who responded, you guys are great! | | | 05-30-2011, 12:53 AM | #27 | NOBODY F's with the Jesus Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ventura California Posts: 7,824 | cool man, glad it was something easy and inexpensive. | | | 09-21-2011, 01:43 AM | #28 | Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: El Paso, TX Posts: 20 | Where is the crankcase valve located? My has a very similar noise and rough idle. | | | 09-21-2011, 07:44 AM | #29 | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Virginia Posts: 242 | Quote: Originally Posted by donslade Where is the crankcase valve located? My has a very similar noise and rough idle. | It is the black disc located right behind the upper manifold near the brake booster. Has the BMW logo right in the center of it. You'll have to remove the upper intake manifold to take it off since the bolts go in from the bottom. | | | 09-21-2011, 05:24 PM | #30 | Senior Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: Michigan Posts: 183 | I have a 98 and was able to change the CCV (PCV) without taking the upper manifold off. Just need a standard allen key and a little patience and manual dexterity. | | |  | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Thread Tools | | Display Modes | Linear Mode | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |