 » Site Navigation | | | | » Recent Threads | | | | | | | |  |  |  | |  04-21-2010, 04:54 AM | #1 | | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: rockford illinois Posts: 127 |  Turbo TI
Hey guys,
I have gathered many goods to start a turbo build for my ti. Basically I am wanting to start simple with 8psi of boost. Then as I upgrade internals increase boost. I will be attempting to do the tuning myself, but so far I seem to be in a little over my head. John has helped my out a ton with giving great advise on any question I could conjure up. Any advise or questions let them shoot!
Here's what I've got:
*1996 318ti California edition with about 100k on the motor
*.42a/r turbo
* jdm intercooler and piping
*EMusa wastegate
*stainless 6cyl manifold I have cut and welded
*misc. odds and ins |  |  | | 04-21-2010, 05:00 AM | #2 | | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: rockford illinois Posts: 127 |
Pictures | | | | | 04-21-2010, 05:03 AM | #3 | | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: rockford illinois Posts: 127 |
More | | | | | 04-21-2010, 05:05 AM | #4 | | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: rockford illinois Posts: 127 |
And More... | | | | | 04-23-2010, 02:49 PM | #5 | | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 |
Nice start. Just keep moving along and you will be done in no time | | | | | 04-23-2010, 05:25 PM | #6 | | Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Tulsa, OK Posts: 252 |
looks like u've got a good start, i like what ur doing with the header, keep the updates coming __________________ 1996 318ti base: m44, 5 spd, lsd - 18x8 bremmer kraft wheels w/sumitumo tires 225/40R18 & bmw locking lug studs, 10mm spacers in rear, halo headlights, cold air intake, koni str.t struts and shocks w/mounts, h&r sport springs, serp belts, control arm & tie rod kits, front sway bar links, JVC kd-x50bt headunit w/ipod hook up in the glove box, alpine sps-500(front and rear), jl audio 10" powerwedge max, jl audio 250.1 amp, motor mounts, fuel filter, passenger side window motor, drivers lower window run, muffler hanger kit, various interior bulbs, left door striker/ajar switch, lower hood latches, changed from gray vinal to black leather shift and parking brake boots, m3 weighted shift knob, ngk-r spark plugs, magnecor spark plug wires(blue),new cabin micro-filters,new headliner & a-pillar mouldings, 5w20 synth-blend oil and filter, BG Ultra Guard syn. rear end fluid & ls additive, BG Syncro Shift II syn. manual trans fluids, stainless steel braided brake lines and dot 4 fluid, extra brake light mod, new p/s reservoir and rubber hoses
need to do - fix door panels, paint job, MORE MONEY!!  | | | | | 04-23-2010, 05:53 PM | #7 | | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: rockford illinois Posts: 127 |
Right now I am working on getting oil to and from the turbo. I wanted to try to get all but the exhaust done today, but none of my local auto parts stores carry any m12X1.5 fittings for the feed line. I am planning on running a "T" from the oil sender so I can still run the censor. But what happens if I do not run the censor? idk? In a couple minutes I will be pulling the pan to mount my return. Hopefully I can compile some sort of temporary feed. Then I need to figure out which maps on Winols I need to adjust and how. | | | | | 04-23-2010, 06:37 PM | #8 | | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Auburn, WA Posts: 1,814 |
nice start i wish i could start on mine too.
that engine mount is gonna break sooner or later __________________  5/96 318TI Sport BIG TURBO
Last edited by Jean H.318TI; 04-23-2010 at 06:39 PM. | | | | | 04-23-2010, 06:43 PM | #9 | | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: rockford illinois Posts: 127 |
Hah thanks I plan to pull it off and weld some reinforcements onto it once everything is mocked up. | | | | | 04-23-2010, 06:46 PM | #10 | | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Auburn, WA Posts: 1,814 |
k just trying to help u so u dont have any problems down the road __________________ 5/96 318TI Sport BIG TURBO | | | | | 04-23-2010, 06:49 PM | #11 | | Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: rockford illinois Posts: 127 |
Might anybody know how to remove the oil pan? I have removed the pan on my old engine some tome ago, I just remember removing the 16 or so 10mm bolts ant pulling it off. But today I cannot get it to budge. I have tapped in it with a mallot. any ideas? | | | | | 04-24-2010, 03:37 AM | #12 | | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 |
Quote: Originally Posted by rcair3d  Might anybody know how to remove the oil pan? I have removed the pan on my old engine some tome ago, I just remember removing the 16 or so 10mm bolts ant pulling it off. But today I cannot get it to budge. I have tapped in it with a mallot. any ideas? | Hidden bolts. You need to be completely under it and look up with a flash light to see all the bolts. No tapping needed or you will break something. When all bolts are loose it will drop in your hands. Back center by crank are two hidden way up in side the casting of the oil pan. There is a center bolt on the pan for the oil pump pickup exchange (my own name for that bolt). There are maybe 2 more hidden look don't tap. Sorry to act like father here but I don't want you to damage anything. You have a bolt still attached | | | | | 04-24-2010, 03:46 AM | #13 | | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 |
Quote: Originally Posted by rcair3d Hah thanks I plan to pull it off and weld some reinforcements onto it once everything is mocked up. | Yep on that engine mount smooth it all out and take out more metal if you have too then MIG or TIG with a blunt tip 1/4 aluminum and blend that in and your all set. I had to take 7/16 off my block web support and 1/8 off a engine mount bolt to make my turbo fit... That mount is the down force side on the engine so the bottom of it gets the most stress (where it's currently cut). It needs to be strong or it will break and your motor will drop on the cross member center frame and bust the oil pan or jack up all your exhaust manifold piping by bending it when it hits the frame. Also major drive-line issues will happen with the engine in the cock-eyed position. Just a warning and I'm sure your already all over this issue. Just want to be sure. Ok? Best, John S | | | | | 04-24-2010, 03:55 AM | #14 | | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gulfport, Florida Posts: 3,208 |
Quote: Originally Posted by rcair3d Right now I am working on getting oil to and from the turbo. I wanted to try to get all but the exhaust done today, but none of my local auto parts stores carry any m12X1.5 fittings for the feed line. I am planning on running a "T" from the oil sender so I can still run the censor. But what happens if I do not run the censor? idk? In a couple minutes I will be pulling the pan to mount my return. Hopefully I can compile some sort of temporary feed. Then I need to figure out which maps on Winols I need to adjust and how. | Get the M12x1.5 to 1/8ntp for a digital oil gauge or sweep gauge with sender. Don't rely on the dummy light in the cabin they only come on when it's too late and your motor is in big trouble. I can give you a link for the fitting M12 fitting and a gauge for about $79 maybe more. You then "T" with a 1/8 NTP and put the sensor on center tee and run your turbo oil off the straight tee directly to the turbo. This oil is freshly filtered. You know the pressure to your turbo at all times since the gauge is hooked on the tee center and reporting to you. On the oil pan. Make sure you drill as far up on the pan as possible in the baffle area. You need to be high so when you screw in the return it is right below the motor block. If you don't do this you will need a oil scavenger pump running at all times to remove oil from the turbo unless your doing a top mount turbo. Just some thoughts while I drink. Dad's service tomorrow. Putting him to rest... | | | | | 04-24-2010, 04:03 AM | #15 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Baltimore, MD Posts: 130 |
going turbo sounds like fun......is this easier/cheaper than doing a motor swap? | | | | | |
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