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Okay, so here's what I'm working with in the pic. - 2 rear window motor/assemblies - 1 window switch - 2 random relays  Electrical guru I am not. So I'm wanting to know if it's possible to wire both of these windows to the one window switch? And if so, do I need more that what's in the pic? OR could I splice the wiring from the motors into the current switches for the front windows, and just have the vent windows open with the front windows? __________________
Friends don't let friends call it "Beamer". It's Bimmer, like Rim.
Last edited by TroyAndEddie; 03-28-2012 at 09:15 PM. |  |  | | 03-29-2012, 01:24 AM | #2 | | Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ft Defiance, AZ Posts: 686 |
can't really help you with electrics but i can bump you for what looks like a great idea __________________ 1999 BMW 318ti
2005 MINI Cooper S
 | | | | | 03-29-2012, 02:05 AM | #3 | | Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Tulsa, OK Posts: 252 |
I like this idea, don't see why it wouldn't work, I think your switch may get a little warm...not sure though __________________ 1996 318ti base: m44, 5 spd, lsd - 18x8 bremmer kraft wheels w/sumitumo tires 225/40R18 & bmw locking lug studs, 10mm spacers in rear, halo headlights, cold air intake, koni str.t struts and shocks w/mounts, h&r sport springs, serp belts, control arm & tie rod kits, front sway bar links, JVC kd-x50bt headunit w/ipod hook up in the glove box, alpine sps-500(front and rear), jl audio 10" powerwedge max, jl audio 250.1 amp, motor mounts, fuel filter, passenger side window motor, drivers lower window run, muffler hanger kit, various interior bulbs, left door striker/ajar switch, lower hood latches, changed from gray vinal to black leather shift and parking brake boots, m3 weighted shift knob, ngk-r spark plugs, magnecor spark plug wires(blue),new cabin micro-filters,new headliner & a-pillar mouldings, 5w20 synth-blend oil and filter, BG Ultra Guard syn. rear end fluid & ls additive, BG Syncro Shift II syn. manual trans fluids, stainless steel braided brake lines and dot 4 fluid, extra brake light mod, new p/s reservoir and rubber hoses
need to do - fix door panels, paint job, MORE MONEY!!  | | | | | 03-29-2012, 12:06 PM | #4 | | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Severna Park, MD Posts: 126 |
After a day of researching and pondering, here's what I'm going to try:
-Take the new switch and splice into the driver's window switch for my power, ground, and switch illumination. Essentially share the wiring.
-Then, I'll run two separate wires from the switch to each rear window motor. That will serve as my positive connection to the motors.
-I'll use a ground source near the motors to reduce the amount of wiring.
-Then cross my fingers, and press some buttons.
I'll field test it this weekend, but the actual full install won't happen until my CD43 and DICE unit get here in a couple weeks. No sense in tearing apart the interior twice.
I plan on taking copious amounts of photos and maybe a video as well for documenting purposes. Hopefully, a successful DIY when all is said and done! __________________
Friends don't let friends call it "Beamer". It's Bimmer, like Rim. | | | | | 03-29-2012, 02:57 PM | #5 | | Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ft Defiance, AZ Posts: 686 |
looking forward to seeing how it comes out, good luck __________________ 1999 BMW 318ti
2005 MINI Cooper S
| | | | | 03-29-2012, 06:09 PM | #6 | | Senior Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Orange County, CA Posts: 2,019 |
My first question is why would you want to do this? Simple splice wires, solder them together or crimp..and done __________________ V2 in progress. Volkswagen MK6 GTI | | | | | 03-29-2012, 09:04 PM | #7 | | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Severna Park, MD Posts: 126 |
Quote: Originally Posted by eurohb  My first question is why would you want to do this? Simple splice wires, solder them together or crimp..and done | I'm assuming your question about why I'm doing this is referring to having both windows on 1 switch. If this is the case, I have a couple reasons. 1: My alarm LED is taking up one of the four window switch slots, and I don't want to go dremelling to find another slot for that. 2: When I open the vent windows, I always open both. I never see myself wanting to just open one side in the rear. So there's no point in having 2 switches if I can make 1 happen. As to the splice, soldering and crimping, I'm not sure which wires/points you're specifically referring to. But I'm more than happy to take more specific suggestions if this particular arena comes second nature to you. __________________
Friends don't let friends call it "Beamer". It's Bimmer, like Rim. | | | | | 03-29-2012, 09:46 PM | #8 | | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Roanoke, VA Posts: 472 |
Pardon my ignorance but they made Ti's with rear power vent windows? If so then cool and i just learned something new lol. | | | | | 03-29-2012, 09:47 PM | #9 | | Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ft Defiance, AZ Posts: 686 |
^^^i thought the same exact thing __________________ 1999 BMW 318ti
2005 MINI Cooper S
| | | | | 03-29-2012, 10:42 PM | #10 | | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Severna Park, MD Posts: 126 |
They were only available on European E46 Ti models. So it's definitely a custom retrofit to fit them in our E36s. Being stationed overseas helped me gather the parts I needed, so now it's just trying to make it all work. __________________
Friends don't let friends call it "Beamer". It's Bimmer, like Rim. | | | | | 03-29-2012, 10:48 PM | #11 | | Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ft Defiance, AZ Posts: 686 |
makes sense, on the topic of the E46 ti while in germany this summer i fell in love with them, mainly they're uniqueness from the rest of the E46 range __________________ 1999 BMW 318ti
2005 MINI Cooper S
| | | | | 03-29-2012, 11:09 PM | #12 | | Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Roanoke, VA Posts: 472 |
Quote: Originally Posted by TroyAndEddie They were only available on European E46 Ti models. So it's definitely a custom retrofit to fit them in our E36s. Being stationed overseas helped me gather the parts I needed, so now it's just trying to make it all work. | Cool to know. Thanks for the knowledge! | | | | | 03-30-2012, 04:52 PM | #13 | | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Bremerhaven, Germany Posts: 977 |
Quote: Originally Posted by TroyAndEddie -Then, I'll run two separate wires from the switch to each rear window motor. That will serve as my positive connection to the motors. | You'll likely need an older window switch if it will directly drive the motors. The newer ones with small 1x4 or 2x3 connectors are meant to drive the low current, solid state inputs of the ZKE/general module. | | | | | 03-30-2012, 06:05 PM | #14 | | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Severna Park, MD Posts: 126 |
Quote: Originally Posted by John Firestone You'll likely need an older window switch if it will directly drive the motors. The newer ones with small 1x4 or 2x3 connectors are meant to drive the low current, solid state inputs of the ZKE/general module. | I have 2 older switches from an 92 4-door. It has the white connectors and thicker-than-normal wires. They don't have the one-touch up/down feature (which I wasn't going to use anyway). Think those would work? __________________
Friends don't let friends call it "Beamer". It's Bimmer, like Rim. | | | | | 03-30-2012, 10:35 PM | #15 | | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Severna Park, MD Posts: 126 |
Made some progress and took a couple videos. They're almost uploaded now, so keep checking back on the site. I'll continue to add videos and photos as I progress. https://picasaweb.google.com/TroyAndEddie/318tiWork __________________
Friends don't let friends call it "Beamer". It's Bimmer, like Rim.
Last edited by TroyAndEddie; 03-30-2012 at 10:58 PM. | | | | | |
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