» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | looove 04-16-2024 01:18 PM 04-16-2024 01:18 PM 0 Replies, 1,633 Views | | | | | | 06-16-2012, 03:39 AM | #16 | NOBODY F's with the Jesus Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ventura California Posts: 7,824 | Quote: Originally Posted by joesmoe3 new | Nope, 318ti specific. | | | 06-16-2012, 03:40 AM | #17 | Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: NoVA Posts: 14 | Thank you. How many years will fit ? | | | 06-16-2012, 05:54 AM | #18 | NOBODY F's with the Jesus Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ventura California Posts: 7,824 | Quote: Originally Posted by joesmoe3 Thank you. How many years will fit ? | 95-99. However, I know the sport models and maybe some others came with 10 speaker audio systems which means they had two speakers built into the door panels. Also, '99's and maybe some of the really late model '98's came with side impact air bags. | | | 10-01-2012, 05:54 PM | #19 | Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: atlanta Posts: 27 | Quote: Originally Posted by J!m Good info- I did not think the popular Gorilla Glue would last, but I held my opinion back. I think you can figure it out by looking at the other panel as see if you can determine it. They are numbered, but the numbers sound like they may not be visible now. If you are careful in watching the orientation while removing them from the door itself, you should be able to figure out how they mount to the panel. You could also leave the stand-offs in place, apply the glue of your choice to them, and press the door panel back on, watching to see that they are meeting the contour of the panel correctly. Best solution is probably new panels from another car that has not been 'messed with' yet. | Hello. if you guys are looking to fix your door panels, i have good news,' we are reproducing the e36 door posts, yes the black ones that are imposible to find. we have the drivers and passenger side sets, so if you are interested feel free to send me an e-mail for more info. german.carriazo@gmail.com or a PV here is also ok. | | | 04-10-2013, 05:04 PM | #20 | Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Wichita, Ks Posts: 86 | if you are wondering where to put the posts, there are little indents that mark one corner of the post. another thing you can do is put the posts in their mounting spots (use some double sided tape) and then put 3M double sided tape on the backs of the posts. then put the door panel into mounting position and then remove it. the post should be stuck in their proper place. then mark the corners of each one and glue them down (then fiberglass, thats what i did) good luck! __________________ '74 2002ti (Departed) '82 320is (Departed) '87 535i (+360k Departed :'( ) '88 535is (200k en-route to being reitred) '98 318ti (150k Active) '04 330ci (Newest Member) | | | 05-01-2013, 04:13 PM | #21 | Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: San Francisco, California Posts: 22 | BTW- I've used all the glues and standard epoxies mentioned here with eventual repeat failure. The solution (if you don't want to deal with fiberglass like the original poster used) is to go buy yourself some marine grade epoxy such as the West System 105 Resin and 205 hardener sold at West Marine (not affiliated). Score the top and bottom of the stand-offs with a utility knife (to get a good adheasion), mix up the epoxy (the mixing pumps they sell are great for this). Use a disposable hobby brush (they also sell a pack of these cheap metal handle brushes at West Marine) to brush both sides of the stand-off mounting tab to ensure adheasion, then just drop it in the spot then fan the epoxy out at least a good 1" around the standoff, ensuring you get coverage above and below the tab. Solid as a rock (I have broken the white retaining clips from several removals/installs over the years without even a hint of any of the stand-offs loosening). The chemical and physical composition of epoxy resin dictate a 4:1 ratio mixure of resin to hardener. If you're using any epoxy that has a 1:1 ratio, you are using an inferior product; the hardnener is cut with a filler agent to take up the extra space, reducing the strength of the final cured product. Good luck all! | | | 05-02-2013, 08:23 AM | #22 | Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Bremerhaven, Germany Posts: 977 | Filler is not always such a bad thing with epoxy. When gluing wood, people often add filler to add flexibility or to fill gaps. Otherwise, epoxy can be too stiff and crack. From what I have read, epoxy often appears to crack internally near the epoxy-wood interface: you then have the curious situation where the joint remains good but the adhesive fails. Wood and epoxy is a topic of current research. I used a 90-min epoxy on my passenger door panel but next time will probably use a more flexible, two-part polyurethane dispensed through a static mixer. Last edited by John Firestone; 05-02-2013 at 08:43 AM. | | | 05-03-2013, 01:36 AM | #23 | Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Atlanta Posts: 233 | If you dont want to mess with fiberglass. I am havean ebay listing for replacement door posts. http://www.ebay.com/itm/318ti-Door-P...694916&vxp=mtr Mention the forum and get a free tube of JB weld. Great writeup, sorry to hijack. __________________ -PTS- "Some people like cupcakes better. I for one, care less for them" | | | | | Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | | Posting Rules | You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | |