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Old 05-04-2015, 06:47 PM   #16
kstadelman
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Exhaust has no cats so the other sensors are out of the loop. Seems to run pretty well, a bit lean, but still strong. Jim's conversion book is OUTSTANDING. Anyone doing an engine conversion without his book is going to waste a lot of time and money doing it wrong. Don't "reinvent the wheel," buy the damn book. My car came with 328 front brakes - rotors were shot so I've put in new rotors and pads and bled the brakes all around. Fixed almost all the oil leaks, got a new radiator from Ebay (all aluminum for under $100) fits well and cools just fine. Rebuilt the clutch pedal with new bronze bushing and a UUC stop, put in a new slave cylinder. Wrapped the headers with heat tape from Ebay, put in a quicker shift from a Z3 with new rubber boot. Still gets pretty warm from the transmission tunnel so I have more insulating to do. Went full soft on my shocks but it is still very stiff. The to do list never seems to get shorter. I like that it's a Texas body with 124K miles and no rust. I don't like that in the repaint they didn't put flexible primer on the bumper covers so they look lame.
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Old 05-05-2015, 01:53 AM   #17
M-technik-3
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Should be running in open loop aka rich not lean. Odd
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Old 05-05-2015, 06:33 AM   #18
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Don't have an exhaust sniffer but the pipes look quite clean and plugs light grey. I thought with the Turner modified chip it would run richer. M cams and the early intake manifold moves the power band up the rev range pretty significantly. Relatively happy with the car except the front end is noisy with the BC Racing coilovers, camber plates, E30 lower control arms, offset lollipops, and M sway bar there is quite a bit of squeaking and groaning from the front.
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Old 05-05-2015, 04:02 PM   #19
M-technik-3
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Dump the BC's, get a set of oem e36 M3 struts cut them and install Ground Control's and some Koni inserts and use a quality camber plates and it will help or use E36 M3 upper strut mounts and it will help.
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Old 05-05-2015, 07:57 PM   #20
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Jees-
Thanks for the info. Sounds like I'm going to have to spend some money.
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Old 05-31-2015, 02:45 AM   #21
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Got the front end to quiet down by tightening up the sway bar mounts. However I have 5-inch 450lb springs in the rear that coil bind over every bump and 7-inch 400lb springs in the front. It rides like a rock. Going to keep my BC shocks for a while, switch the front springs to the rear and order some 10-inch 150lb springs for the front. Jim's book mostly talks about M3 spring setup and I think this will be close. Figure a 1-inch preload on the fronts. Be interesting to see what all this does to my drop since I am running my adjusters all the way out.
No question that Jim's book is very helpful- wish the guy that originally assembled the car had read it.
I ended up putting the battery in the storage section under the floor in the rear. There was no spare tire so I took a marine plastic battery box, cut a hole in the floor and used some metal strapping to support it- seems to be OK and doesn't show with the carpet cover.

Last edited by kstadelman; 05-31-2015 at 02:50 AM.
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Old 07-07-2015, 01:44 PM   #22
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Any luck with the abs?

My abs worked pre-swap and now the light is on after the swap.
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Old 07-28-2015, 12:40 PM   #23
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Abs, if the swap was done on a pre 96 car the wiring is different to the clocks when I done my swap I had to buy a lead from bmw, I scanned the car had no faults the guide is here

http://www.bmwforums.info/3-series-g...-1996-e36.html

Hope it helps



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Old 07-28-2015, 07:57 PM   #24
kstadelman
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Thank you
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