Help with removing rear springs

[HigH RevZ]

How can I pull them out, or do I have to compress them and which tool to use to compress them, it looks too tight in there to use the spring compressor from the struts like you would in the front. Any sugestions from people that have done this.I need help asap I want to finish today. Thanks

[CirrusSR22]

You can pull them without a tool. After you unbolt the lower shock mount, you need to put a lot of downward pressure on the semi-trailing arm. With some wiggling and brute force you can yank them right out.

[marleymon]

yeah, undo the swaybar links too and the arm should drop low enough....

[cooljess76]

What they said + release the e-brake. The trailing arm will drop further down and you won't have to pry on it to get the spring out. Just a couple jerks and the things will rip right out no probs. Just make sure the car is in gear or on jackstands so it doesnt roll back on you when you release the e-brake.

[HigH RevZ]

Thanks a lot guys you guys know your stuff,

Now I'm having another problem its intalling the front strut assembly, they are giving me some mounting trouble I cant compress the strut to bolt it on to the knuckle. I have the top 3 bolts on but I cant put enough pressure with out lifting the body...dam those struts have a but load of pressure, It even seems like their too long for the Ti. They are the Bilstein HD with Mtek springs.
Any good advice will help from people that have done the install. Thanks

[cooljess76]

The bottom two bolts have to line up first before you put the pivot bolt through the kingpin. In between the lower 18mm bolts, you'll see a small guidepin that has to seat itself in the hole when you tighten the lower bolts. After you get those two bolts started, you should be able to manuever the pivot bolt through the strut and kingpin and thread the nut on. If that doesn't help, then you could try to remove the 3 nuts on the top of the strut tower and get the lower bolts started first, but I've never tried that before, so I'm not sure if it will work. Most people run Bilstein Sports, so it's very possible that the HD's could be longer. I do know a few people that are running the same setup as you, so I know it can be done. It just takes a little patience and a lot of muscle. Be very carefull with the brake lines and sensors. I usually position the strut with one hand and grab the brake caliper with the other which allows me to manuever the brake rotor and kingpin to line up with the lower bolts, then I hold the brake rotor in place with my knee while I thread the bolts in. Take a break and have a beer, you'll get it.

[HigH RevZ]

Thanks a lot cooljess you've been a helpfull member since day 1.

I think these struts are even longer than the OEM, so its hard to compress them with a jack and try to line it up to the bolt holes.

Anyone else done the HD Bilstein install have some helpfull tips, they are much needed and apreciated.

[cooljess76]

This is just another thought I'll throw out there, not sure if it'll make a difference, but try turning the steering wheel. It might lower the control arm slightly enough to get the lower bolts started. It really helps if you have another set of hands to pry and hold that rotor and or control arm while you start the threads. Usually I install the struts with the wheels pointed straight, but maybe if you turn them one way or another, it'll give you a little room to work and lower the control arms.

[CirrusSR22]

I have the factory M-Tech springs and Bilstein HD's. They definitely fit. If I remember correctly, I did use my jack under the strut (or knuckle?) the compress, but mostly line-up the bolt holes. They are very tough, and it takes a lot of force. I used a strong, round-shaft screwdriver for leverage to align the upper knuckle bolt (the lateral one). It's been quite while since I did this project, so I don't remember exactly what I did. Sorry.

[mohaughn]

If you disconnect the front sway bar, or jack up both front wheels the front should drop lower. If you only have 1 wheel jacked up the sway bar will be putting pressure on the control arm on the jacked up side. There should be enough up and down range of motion to the control arm that you don't have to jack up the strut.

I usually use a jack under the steering knuckle to help keep it lined up as it will drop pretty low without the sway bar connected.

[HigH RevZ]

Originally Posted by mohaughn

If you disconnect the front sway bar, or jack up both front wheels the front should drop lower. If you only have 1 wheel jacked up the sway bar will be putting pressure on the control arm on the jacked up side. There should be enough up and down range of motion to the control arm that you don't have to jack up the strut.

I usually use a jack under the steering knuckle to help keep it lined up as it will drop pretty low without the sway bar connected.

Mohaughn thanks alot, he made a good point have both sides jacked up evenly if not your gona be just wasting time.

I soon as I leveld the front evenly the struts slid in with minimal effort. thanks,

This thread should help install the heavy duty bilsteins with stock or Mtech springs

I will post pics of my car soon

[cooljess76]

Awesome, I was under the impression that you had the front of the car lifted. My mistake, hats off to Mohaughn! Good call and nice observation. HigH RevZ, glad you got it sorted out, can't wait to see your car. I'm picking up a clubsport next weekend! This will be my 3rd ti and 5th BMW.

[mohaughn]

I spent two hours trying to adjust my front camber plates when I first installed them. Ended up that I have to completely jack up the front wheels on my car because I installed a 28mm front bar. It puts enough pressure in an upward/outward direction when only one wheel is jacked up you can't easily slide the top of the wheel in to increase camber... So I could easily see how it would do the same thing when trying to lift the steering knuckle to install a strut. Glad it worked for you.