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Old 01-28-2014, 08:53 PM   #1
GUNMEtiL
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Default any experienced M52 swap to obd1 ti input needed

Hey guys I've been reading and searching everywhere for the last year. Finally finished my 97 M52 obd1 converted swap into a 95 obd1 318ti. Anyway it's taken me a couple years maybe even 3 to get it to this point.... Don't ask..lol. I finished in fall and went to start it and it cranks strong but no fuel... Anyone have this problem when they swapped?

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Old 01-28-2014, 10:11 PM   #2
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I would start at the fuel pump relay with a wiring diagram to see if that is functioning correctly., getting power from DME relay, etc. Easy to bypass the relay and force the fuel pump to run as a troubleshooting step.


In my lack of brilliance I had the fuel supply and the fuel return backwards on my M50 fuel rail which was keeping my conversion from starting. That was found after spending lots of time troubleshooting the electronics which were all fine.
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Old 01-28-2014, 10:47 PM   #3
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Thnx for the reply. I'm getting power at the relay, also have power at pump when I jump the relay and pumps fuel out the line but at ko it doesn't switch the fuel pump on/prime..or run while cranking..?
Will the pump still prime at ko even if fuel lines are backwards? Another question will injectors fire on red label 413 with stock M50 chip? My setup is using the M52 injectors so 21# and has S52 cams in it.....? Cranks strong also have ecl on dash. Did stomp test just got the 14441 or w/e for no codes. I've got till spring to figure this out soo I appreciate all the help. pls/thnx

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Old 01-28-2014, 11:05 PM   #4
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Sounds like DME relay. Look at the wiring diagram and see if the DME relay is energizing the fuel pump relay when the key is turned. Not sure what you mean ko?

In my case I found that the FPR also serves as a check valve if plumbed backwards. On an M50 fuel rail, supply line goes to the front, the return is off the FPR.
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Old 01-28-2014, 11:35 PM   #5
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Sry maybe my term is wrong. I mean with key on/in 2nd on position. I swapped relays I'll check again but I think I've tried from my running 328. Also put new cps but it's an aftermarket think it's worth putting another Oem? The pump should prime when keys turned on even if lines are backwards right? How did you guys deal with ews? I think mine being a 95 had a silver ews module as opposed to the newer black one. Either way I've tried red label with green wire snipped, and I've also tried matching key, module and dme. All crank but no fuel or spark. So car should at least start on M50 dme and chip even with 21# injectors and s52 cams.

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Old 01-29-2014, 12:10 AM   #6
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I went 413 red which seemed like the most common solution to eliminate the EWS issue. I still cut the wire although I don't think it is required.

If the fuel lines are backwards than no it won't won't run when the key is turned on as the line will already be pressurized (I think). I know my line had A LOT of pressure in it when I went to swap it around.

Is your DME relay switching when you turn the key to the on position?
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:17 AM   #7
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I think it is clicking when the keys on yes... Thanks well I will fix my fuel lines and see if that does the trick that would be awesome! I'll let you know when it's warmer it's like -40 with windchill here. Although I think I originally had the lines right and mixed them when I swapped the manual harness for an auto thinking it could be a short in the harness or something.... I took out the aftermarket alarm/command start also... But I don't think that would be the problem cause it was all just spliced into chassis harness and came out nprob.
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Old 01-29-2014, 07:47 PM   #8
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Just thought about this what fuel rail do you have on the car? OBD I or II if you have a two then you don't have a FPR so you will not get proper fuel pressure to the injectors.

OBD II are on the chassis not on the fuel rail.
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Old 01-29-2014, 11:55 PM   #9
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Thanks ya I've got the obd1 thanks.... But I will put lines right and get back to ya'll thnx... It might be awhile as it's super cold here.
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:30 AM   #10
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I see you've done the CPS, what about the CKS, which one are you using and its location? You say you have no fuel, what about spark?
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:45 AM   #11
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Hey bluebimma! Just wanted to make a shout out! Lol. But really I've read allot of your threads etc.... And basically learnt and done allot on this swap thanks to you and other members here and on bimmerforums.... And just wanted to say thnx im pretty much a self taught half @*!# mech. Thanks to these forums and members... Anyway Im sry I never expected soo much feedback so I may have posted a bit early, due to the nearly -40'C temps up here in Manitoba. But I think since I started this thread I'll be puttin "ME LONGJOHNZ ON" over the next lil bit and clearing some snow. So thnx guys... Anyway I put a new cps but aftermarket so I don't trust it... I have the orig. M52 one in the back of block still just unplugged and the M50 one in front at toothed crank pulley. When I painted the block some got on the crank wheel..... Wonder if that would dampen the cps signal... Anyway, I'm gonna get out there soon and place the fuel lines correctly.... And clean the crank wheel. Nsure wat cks is? But I haven't replaced cam sensor, think this would cause a no fuel/spark issue? I think no spark either.

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Old 01-30-2014, 02:49 AM   #12
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The OBD1 and OBD2 cam sensors are different. If it's -40 C, who wants to work on a car, I was complaining about it going into 40s F tonight. It can wait :-)
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:50 AM   #13
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Cks is the crank sensor, cps is the cam position sensor. Crank means no fuel or spark, cam is no fuel.
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:52 AM   #14
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Also, I doubt the paint has anything to do with it. I've used aftermarket crank sensors on my my daily m50ti without any issues.
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:57 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wake74 View Post
The OBD1 and OBD2 cam sensors are different. If it's -40 C, who wants to work on a car, I was complaining about it going into 40s F tonight. It can wait :-)
Hah. Lol. Ya n doubt. Do you know if the cam sensor would pug in still..... Cause I can't remember I think I might have left M52 one in there. Oh well I think I'll just grab new Oem ones just to cross those off the list.. also like I said I've got power at relays, got the ecl and stomp test working on cluster.... So this leads me to believe dme's alive, strong crank, fuel pump while relay jumped, I keep thinking cps or ews..... Guess I shoulda brought this up earlier but could it have to do with the facet that I swapped auto out for manual? I didn't wire in clutch switch or anything else with shifter etc... cause car cranked without.... Do I have to wire something else?

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