» Site Navigation | | » Recent Threads | | | | | | | 05-12-2008, 09:40 PM | #16 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: state college, pa Posts: 3,431 | Oops, sorry, I was thinking these were for the rear. I'll have to take a look at the front end again but I don't see why they wouldn't work based on the picture they give. http://www.hrsprings.com/products/triplec/ Our front struts have the same 2-bolt attachment IIRC. __________________ I scream, you scream, we all scream for ZOMBIES. | | | 05-12-2008, 09:51 PM | #17 | Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Eugene Oregon Posts: 6,182 | i just swapped mine about an hour ago so i have a pretty fresh mind. the strut it self is round and the bolt fits quite snug in it. room for a little adjustment. and the two flanges coming off the hub are shaped like an oval. there are two bolts on the lower that go directly into the hub and then the third top one that goes through the flanges. it looks just like the picture. i think it would work. but i dono i would think the hub that is oval should be round otherwise it wouldnt allow very precise adjustment. __________________ -Josh Sold-1995 318ti, Club Sport, Hellrot Sold-1996 318ti, Active Model, Boston Green Current- 1995 318ti, sport model, schwartz | | | 05-12-2008, 10:27 PM | #18 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Florida Posts: 2,525 | Here is the front of my car.. In that first picture you can figure that the top bolt would have to move to the left of the picture to get positive camber. In order to make that happen you would have to loosen the two bottom bolts, and then there would be a gap between the strut and the steering knuckle.. You would basically have to leave those bolts a little loose in order to make adjustments with the top bolt, and then once you have it set, you could crank them down, but there would still be a gap, those two pieces would not fit together flush. With the amount of torque that you should put those two bolts back in at, I would be afraid that the bracket on the bottom of the strut might bend a little bit if it is not flush with the steering knuckle. The second picture is the bimmerworld shims. You can see that they even give you longer bolts to compensate for the distance that the bottom of the strut is moved from the steering knuckle. You can probably make minor adjustments with this type of eccentric bolt, but I wouldn't expect +3 degrees of camber. Moving the top of the strut about 1 inch only gives about 1.5 degrees of camber change. | | | 05-12-2008, 11:51 PM | #19 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: state college, pa Posts: 3,431 | Looks like you just saved Alexandre a lot of time and some money. Nicely done, and thanks, mohaugn. As for the degree of adjustment, it should be about +/-3 degrees since the length of the ray is shorter. That is, a small adjustment in angle makes for a larger deviation with greater distance. Shorter distance, small adjustments are exacerbated. Like short chicks gaining 5lbs versus tall chicks gaining 5lbs. __________________ I scream, you scream, we all scream for ZOMBIES. | | | 05-13-2008, 12:59 AM | #20 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Rio de Janeiro - Brasil Posts: 133 | Guys, Tks for all inputs, but i donīt get the point. This bimmerworld shims will add negative camber, right? But what i nedd is positive ( mine, itīs too much negative. -2,5 driver, -1.8 passenger). In your opinion, as i can read, this H&R bolts will work, is that right? | | | 05-13-2008, 05:06 AM | #21 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Florida Posts: 2,525 | Correct, the bimmerworld shims will only give you negative camber. I don't think an eccentric bolt on the front suspension will work, but I'm hardly a suspension expert. If the guys at turner sell it, and know that it will work, why not give it a shot. My take is that the two bolts on the bottom of the strut should sit perfectly flush. If you move the top bolt in a way that pushes the strut out to give you more positive camber I think the bottom bolts will not line up flush anymore... It is also worth searching on bimmerforums to see if anybody else has used these. If they work, somebody has used them before. | | | 05-13-2008, 01:20 PM | #22 | Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: N.W. VT Posts: 33 | Camber Correction BMW does make a Camber Correction Bolt for the top bolt although I wouldn't think it would correct by much. You could also shim the bottom strut mount bolts. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...21&hg=31&fg=10 | | | 05-13-2008, 11:25 PM | #23 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Rio de Janeiro - Brasil Posts: 133 | Quote: Originally Posted by PeterJ | Peter, That is correct, but only gives 0,5. | | | 05-18-2008, 04:30 PM | #24 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Rio de Janeiro - Brasil Posts: 133 | Well, Trying to get knowledge, i start to read everything that can solve my problem ( front inside tire wear ). Saw some people talking about front toe adjustment ( that can also give some front inside tire wear). But i canīt understand how it can be adjustable. Some can give a hand? Thank you | | | 05-19-2008, 08:46 PM | #25 | Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Florida Posts: 2,525 | You screw the tie rods in further to increase toe-in, screw it out to increase toe-out. Toe adjustment is totally controlled by the tie rods. Again, only applies to the front. There is no built in suspension adjustments on the rear of the Ti. | | | 05-20-2008, 03:53 AM | #26 | Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Rio de Janeiro - Brasil Posts: 133 | Quote: Originally Posted by mohaughn You screw the tie rods in further to increase toe-in, screw it out to increase toe-out. Toe adjustment is totally controlled by the tie rods. Again, only applies to the front. There is no built in suspension adjustments on the rear of the Ti. | Thatīs it. 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