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Old 06-14-2010, 08:38 PM   #91
Mr.Squeelerz
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I didn't even waste time putting everything back together with URO version on. I order a genuine BMW part to do it right. Why waste the time doctoring the bad part when you can do it the right way and know it will function as it was engineered to?
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Old 06-14-2010, 11:50 PM   #92
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Unfortunately at the time I didn't have the luxury of waiting to get the right part plus I didn't realize anything was wrong. My OE one broke when I took it off. It looks like some of the BMW versions are screwed up too so there is no guarantee that getting the genuine part would have made a difference. I'll get a "good" one one of these days and swap it out when I have the time.
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Old 06-15-2010, 05:47 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CirrusSR22 View Post
The big deal is that this happens.
WOW

OK, that's a big deal.

Are the generic brands really that much cheaper than OEM? I think I paid $15 for this part through tischer, OEM BMW.

tbw
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Old 06-16-2010, 06:40 PM   #94
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After blowing the fitting off the back of the head (by overheating on bay bridge to San Fran where I could not stop) from someone before me putting the lower radiator hose on backwards so it wore a hole in it, I wanted to fix my blown head gasket my self.
I did not have all the tools needed, so I thought I am retired, I'm not buying a bunch of tools for one job.

Went to a friend of a friends shop, he seemed to know what he is doing and he went to work on my head gasket change. I had already put a new water pump on and the rear Y fitting on the back of the head (never again, that was a bi#ch).

I told the mechanic to change the other plastic fitting while he had the intake and head off, but he didn't.
We got in a big as$ fight over it, and he threw my cashiers check for $2500 in my face.

A week later, (I took the car, I was paying for a rental for 3 weeks) he called me, I paid him, and he did not offer to change the block fitting.
I am hoping he is right about not changing it, as he has never had one fail.
So I just keep an eye on the temp guage....almost 150K on it now.

Freeking bummer...
That is why I have done every other job needed myself. You can't trust anyone.

Update: 2 1/2 months later, My car does run better since they resurfaced the head, did a valve job and tuned it up, and no oil leaks AT ALL !! I can park on my new driveway now.



We'll wait to see what happens with the fitting you guys are talking about.
I may not have any problems with it, since we do not have the extreme temperatures you guys are talking about fittings leaking at -15 Degrees?
Never happen here...
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Old 06-16-2010, 06:59 PM   #95
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The piece still gets heat cycled by driving the car and shutting it off. When I removed my original block connector it literally broke into pieces just from me pulling it off. You should really think about swapping it before it lets go. You already know the consequences.
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Old 06-16-2010, 07:24 PM   #96
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Is there a way to change it without taking the intake manifold back off?

I was really pissed at the mechanic. I told him " I thought you knew what you are doing on these cars".
I told him the rear fitting fell apart, part of the reason I was there spending $2500 on a top end rebuild. Why would you not change a cheap part like the fitting? He changed the radiator, which was iffey as needing to be replaced, it had been replaced when the previous owner changed all the belts and hoses (including the lower hose that was put on backwards that caused this whole mess). Crap. If you want anything done right, you HAVE to do it yourself.
This guy knew I was friends with the body shop next door (I used to work there) and all his neighbors, why did he not change it? All I would have to do is pass the word around that he does iffy work and he would be done (new shop).
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Old 06-16-2010, 07:39 PM   #97
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I'm pretty sure it's not possible to change the block connector without taking the intake manifold off. It does suck, I can't imagine the reasoning behind why the mechanic wouldn't change it, BMWs are notorious for the crappy plastic cooling parts.
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Old 06-16-2010, 08:02 PM   #98
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That's what I was afraid of. Maybe I should talk to the mechanic, and see what he would charge to change it. I would have to rent a car again or ride my Victory, which is not easy with my job.

Damn, if I had had time to go by there every day, I would have caught it.
Sigh, hindsight is 20-20.

Maybe I will be the first one to change it without removing the manifold. Damn sure wasn't easy changing the rear Y fitting with the intake manifold on....LOL

My problem is time to do it. I have a lot of tools collected over the years from being
a body and fender repairman. I just don't have the specialty BMW tools for major surgery..
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Old 06-16-2010, 08:52 PM   #99
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It doesn't take special tools to do the job, and if you are just changing the block fitting...you will want to take the intake assembly off. It doesn't take that long to do.
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Old 06-16-2010, 09:07 PM   #100
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+1 -- removing the lower intake isn't that big of a deal. Before you remove the fuel rail, use a bicycle pump to force the fuel back into the gas tank, using the schroeder fitting on the rail itself. Of course, release the pressure in the rail before hooking up your bike pump, or the fuel will be sucked up into the pump.

make sure to use blue painters tape and a sharpie to mark every connector as it comes off, then you'll know how it all goes back together.

tbw
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Old 06-16-2010, 09:31 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spidertri View Post
The piece still gets heat cycled by driving the car and shutting it off. When I removed my original block connector it literally broke into pieces just from me pulling it off. You should really think about swapping it before it lets go. You already know the consequences.
That's exactly what happened with my car. I removed the two bolts and lightly pulled on the block connector. A chunk of the connector (including the o-ring) just crumbled and stuck in the block. It sure wouldn't have lasted much longer in service! There's a picture of it in my cooling system DIY. http://318ti.org/forum/showpost.php?...25&postcount=5
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Old 06-16-2010, 10:41 PM   #102
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Thanks, you guys. I have never been one to start a job without finding out from someone with more experience how to do it. My Pappy used to say, "The only dumb question there is - is the one that is not asked".
I would have never known to pump the fuel back, makes sense to me...
And after running out and looking at it again, it looks like the original one. I know what you mean about crumbling when you take it off, the rear head Y fitting I changed without taking the manifold off actually left the inner part inside the head, according to my mechanic he had to fish it out.
Thanks again, everyone.
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Old 06-21-2010, 08:12 AM   #103
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Hey, New member coming from a history of e30's.

Just bought a 1995 318Ti Sport and was looking at this thread. So if I have a 95, I will only need to replace the front peice? Part Number for the front please?
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Old 06-21-2010, 08:15 AM   #104
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Also, According to many sources, the 1995 318ti came with the m42. My friend has a m42 in his e30 and mine does not look anything like it. It looks like an m44. I will post pics.
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Old 06-21-2010, 08:34 AM   #105
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The M42 in the E30 had a different intake system. It did not have the DISA system, so the intake manifold looks totally different. Once the E36 came out they added the DISA intake to the M42 and it continued with the M44 which is partly why they look so similar.

And yes, from what I understand, the M42 only has the connector on the side of the engine block.

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