New head cylinder swapped and now not running: Please help!

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Cam lobes setup for boost. Removed some overlap on exhaust cam but they still are pointing straight up

[ALPINEMTECH98]

Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

My thoughts. Remove valve cover remove all spark plugs. Turn over motor clockwise until balancer is on top dead center. Incert wooden dowel or something that will fit through the #1 spark plug hole (Front hole is 1). You want the dowel or whatever you put in the spark plug hole to be on top of the piston. Now rotate the motor a little clockwise and counter clockwise to ensure the #1 piston is actually at TDC. After you confirm that the piston is top dead center ensure the balancer (balancer behind crankshaft pulleys) is on TDC. Now turn over the motor clockwise two full revolutions back to TDC (this removes any chain slack) with the motor at TDC on the balancer and TDC on piston 1 now install the camshaft locks and tighten the camshaft pulleys)

Do another compression test and if you have no compression you bent all your intake or exhaust valves by trying to start the motor with incorrect valve timing.

Hope this helps, John S

Sorry for the late replay, been busy for the last few days.

I did have the marked tooth lining up with the lower crank case along with the correct position of camshafts at TDC, the tiny magnetic tool there is to sure of piston #1 at TDC...seems like my intake sprocket is off because the sensor hub isn't lining "ARROW" to my sprocket.

I read somewhere in pelicans http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...iming/pic4.jpg to bolt the sprocket bolts to the farthest left and that is what i did. Now do i need to make that adjustment and center it?

I hope i didn't damage any valves..because i did try to crank it for 2-3seconds of it being wrong timing. Took the head out again but see no wear of bending valves. Lead me clueless.

Thanks for the reply.

[ALPINEMTECH98]

Originally Posted by Autohead

When your cams are locked with the tool and you look at the cylinder one cam lobes, they should look like this: / \ That's about what your look like.
If you didn't hear anything ticking when you turned it over, I'm sure it isn't all bent valves unless the timing was dramatically off.
One thing, being that I run a machine shop, we see a lot is customers putting heads together and not giving the lifters time to bleed down which causes the valves to stay open slightly. That'll cause you to have no compression, with that said, the time it takes to install the head going at a slow pace usually would be enough time to help them bleed down and seal the valves.
Perhaps having left it for a few hours, the valves might have sealed now. If it still isn't sealing (assuming it was lifters originally), then those valves might be the culprit now.

No i did not hear any ticking. It hand manually smooth. I think i just trust the cam shafts locking tool too much. Doesnt it will line up your camshafts to TDC no matter what though? Weird is i see it being locked flush and the first lobes are like /\ <-----<this. but mine are locked and are like | | hmmm....Yeah i did take my time when bleeding down the lifters too..hopefully not the valves.

[ALPINEMTECH98]

Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

In this picture the cam lobes on #1 are almost pointing straight up, which is how mine are on my M4x, on a M50 or 52 the lobes are turned in much more I will post a picture of my cams which I installed with a dial indicator using valve off seat measurements which is more accurate then the holding block.

Can you post a link for these cams? Just from the picture it looks like they have a ton of duration like what would be used on a high rpm race motor.

Please post a link, Thanks

After you install the sprockets correctly maybe the cams will be in time with the motor. Bad news is with both lobes pointing straight up your #1 cylinder should show compression. Maybe the cams are not a correct fit for your valve stem lengths so the valves are never closed.

I would install the old cams and do another compression test, but that is just me.

That all I got right now using the pictures you supplied

Sorry for the late reply,

Yeah i was thinking about that too. To install the old cams back into the engine. Not sure if i mention this, but these are http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-...ets-p1929.aspx aka cat cams http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-...ets-p1929.aspx 1301701

I know i should be getting after market valve stems and springs which are already in the cart (have not purchased yet) but it said they are OEM compatible.. maybe you are right about the valve stems?

If that is the case, which one should i get? http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-...ock-p1022.aspx ??