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Old 11-18-2005, 02:35 AM   #1
Tyler
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Default headlight/stereo question i think??

Well i got a question for people who have a sub/amp in there car,or anyone that might know the problem/answer. I noticed tonight coming home from work when i pulled off the hgwy that my headlights were flashing. Not really flashing but i could see them fade then get bright again. Well i was playing my stereo not too loud but where i normally have it,i was playing 50cents movie sndtrk so it was bumping,and when i turned the volume down it stopped but as soon as i turned it up again it did the same thing. It was probally 40 degrees outside so i'm not sure if it's cause it was cold out.

Anyone have suggestions
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Old 11-18-2005, 04:14 AM   #2
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You need capacitors, aka "caps."
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Old 11-18-2005, 04:20 AM   #3
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my 2 cents.........avoid the 50cent

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler
Well i got a question for people who have a sub/amp in there car,or anyone that might know the problem/answer. I noticed tonight coming home from work when i pulled off the hgwy that my headlights were flashing. Not really flashing but i could see them fade then get bright again. Well i was playing my stereo not too loud but where i normally have it,i was playing 50cents movie sndtrk so it was bumping,and when i turned the volume down it stopped but as soon as i turned it up again it did the same thing. It was probally 40 degrees outside so i'm not sure if it's cause it was cold out.

Anyone have suggestions
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Old 11-18-2005, 04:23 AM   #4
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50 rocks dogg...best quit frontin ya wanksta
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Old 11-18-2005, 04:26 AM   #5
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you system is drawing amps from your battery and it effects your lights. usally happens when the bass hits. either get some caps or install another battery to run your system. is the soundtrak anygood?
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Old 11-18-2005, 04:37 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aceyx
You need capacitors, aka "caps."

What are caps And what do they do


My amp is only running at 275 watts.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Platanos
is the soundtrak anygood?
Yeah it is pretty good,i give it a thumbs up.
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Old 11-18-2005, 04:43 AM   #7
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Watts = Volts X Amps
275 watts = 12Volts X 23 Amps
That means you are drawing 23 amps off your battery. That ain't chump change. Get the caps, so they can take the burden off the battery.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyler
What are caps And what do they do

My amp is only running at 275 watts.




Yeah it is pretty good,i give it a thumbs up.
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1998 (July) 318ti, 5-spd
OEM Armrest • Blaupunkt Heidelberg CD50 CD Player/Compact Drive MP3 Player • Diamond Audio 5.25" rear speakers • Navman ICN 530 GPS • BMWALARM.COM (with comfort settings) after market alarm system • Magnecor 8.5mm wires • M-Z3 Shifter/Momo Knob • Burlwood Dashboard • Stromung Exhaust • X-brace • Racing Dynamics Front Strut Bar • Carbonio C.A.I. • 17" Rial Rims • Vader Seats/Heated/Lumbar Support • M-tech Steering Wheel/Front Sway Bar/Front & Rear Bumper • Depos/w 6500K Angel Eyes/6000K HIDs • Clear Corners • M3 Mirrors • UUC Light Weight Flywheel/M5 Clutch/M3 Clutch Slave • E28 3.46 LSD/Mcoupe Cover/E30 Flanges & Halfshafts • UUC S.S. Brake/Clutch Lines • Hartge Roof Spoiler • BavAuto Springs• Bilstein Sport Struts/Shocks • E46 M3 Rear Shock Mounts • SPC Front Camber Kit • Reiger Hatch Spoiler • BavAuto Rear Camber Kit • Dinan Stage II Software • Turner Rear Sway Bar Reinforcements • BMW E46 Auto dimming mirror with Clown Nose alarm • Engine Compartment Light • Heated Wiper Fluid Retrofit • OEM Fire Extinguisher • Da'lan Trailer Hitch • Rear Sun Shade • OEM Fog Light Retrofit • H & R MZ3 Rear Sway Bar/ UUC Adjustable End Links • Cruise Control Retrofit • On Board Computer Retrofit • M3 twistie style side skirts • Carbon Fiber Hood
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Old 11-18-2005, 04:47 AM   #8
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Where can i find these
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Old 11-18-2005, 04:57 AM   #9
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try your local mobile audio store...
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Old 11-18-2005, 06:55 AM   #10
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im thinking radioshack might have them but im not sure
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Old 11-18-2005, 10:12 AM   #11
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Good thinking, but ratshack isn't gonna carry the right ones. The capacitors used in car audio are significantly larger / more powerful than the small ones used in consumer electronics.

Basically, it's a temporary battery for when the amp draws a large current. When your subs hit hard, it takes a lot of juice to move the magnets. It's literally taking power away from the headlights, so they dim.

Capacitors are very easy to install. They just go in-line from the power source. Disconnect battery, cut, splice, reconnect.
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Old 11-18-2005, 06:24 PM   #12
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I did some research last night and came across a lot of lightning audio caps,is this a good brand? I don’t want no cheap stuff I want a good one..
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Old 11-21-2005, 04:38 PM   #13
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Not Radio Shack, they tossed most of their car audio stuff. Go to a car audio store, best buy or circuit city. You may want to buy a 0.5 farad (500mf) cap for your system. you're looking at only about 75 bucks. Make sure you install it correctly no more than 1 foot from the amp (the closer the better), but not touching the amp. Mount it, never let it roll around, and make sure the cover is over the top contacts or posts. You will need to follow the instructions that come with it for charging it before using it, thats important. One cap is just as good as another honestly, the difference comes in the name, colors, gold plating, digital readouts and such. If you buy if from a car audio shop they may pre-charge it for you according to your car's voltage at the amp (not at the battery) ask them before doing it yourself. Basically you measure the voltage your amp gets without anything on that draws current other than the amp and the car itself. Thats the voltage you want the cap to be set at of slightly higher, keep in mind most car audio is rated and tested at 14.4volts and not 12. So if they tell you 13.5 they're not pulling your leg, and you'll get more watts, but then you may want a larger 1f cap. While you're there have them measure you amps amp draw. Caps are great just keep in mind that they are like little batteries that charge and discharge voltage much faster, so it can shock the crap out of you.

Be safe and good luck!
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Old 11-23-2005, 10:41 PM   #14
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Ok since this is new to me i'm being told to buy a new alternater on another forum and thats a better bang for my buck.

Thoughts on this please???
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Old 11-26-2005, 06:16 AM   #15
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The alternator is not what you want. The amp gets its current from the battery not the alternator thats why you connect the possitive of the amp to the battery and not the alternator. The alternator charges the battery and runs everything else, such as the wipers, etc. The alternators job is to recharge the battery as it is drained. Audio amps draw lots of amps, faster than what the alternator can replace. But batteries recharge slowly, which is why you lights blink. The battery is still 12 volts but the amp output is being lowered. The cap recharges very fast and discharges very fast, ideal for car amps, unlike batteries. Let the alternator do what it is meant to do which is recharge the battery and let the cap assist your amp with what the battery can't support.
By the way you can always use a smaller drive wheel (pulley) on the alternator instead of buying a new one. A smaller pulley wheel turns the alternator more times; more turns, more amps. But be care full, when increasing the alternator and amp output you may have computer and voltage regulator problems or have to upgrade them too. It's easier to go with the Cap, thats what they're made for.
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