Ireland Engineering Bushings

[Marv17]

Is it recommended to upgrade to these bushings for the subframe, trailing arms, and control arms?
I've read some of the other old threads regarding the after effect of installations. Some said its stiffer but yet slides out but yet planted.
I just want to replace my worn out bushings and if this is a recommended upgrade I want to do it while I'm at it.
Thanks for the opinions.


p.s. BTW, which bushings would be best recommended? I'm assuming the street green bushings. But what about the control arms? The regular M3 ones or the offset ones?

[1996 328ti]

I have Ireland's urethane's trailing arm bushings and subframe bushings.
Personally, I would not do it again.
I found the car to be more twitchy and the noisy.

For the front, I would use M3 control arm bushings.

[spidertri]

I have ireland subframe bushings and I am about to replace the RTABs with stock.

The urethane subframe bushings made a huge difference when I installed them but I imagine fresh oe rubber would have done the same thing. When I installed the IE bushings they didn't seat properly until the car was back on the ground, that was a PITA. For that reason alone I wouldn't go with Ireland again.

I've heard good things about powerflex subframe bushings and AKG has a lot of options.

RTABs seem to be hit or miss, some people claim theirs never squeak and others claim they have to grease the bushings everyday. To me, that means go with stock, lol.

I have centered M3 CABs, I haven't had any problems with them.

Check out E30tech and R3vlimited, those guys love the poly bushings but they also have a lot of great info about the rear of our cars.

[bullmand]

I have the AKG subframe bushings on my E30. The do increase the amount of noise transmitted to the interior by a significant amount. I suspect this is worse on the E30 than it would be on the ti because the bolt that runs through the middle of the bushing actually enters the passenger compartment on the E30. I don't believe this is the case on the ti. As for the handling, I agree with Steven that it makes the car twitchier in the rear. It's very easy with these and some thicker swaybars to break the rear end loose in the E30 318. I think If were to replace these on the ti I'd stick with stock or perhaps a solid rubber if you can find one.

[Marv17]

hmm, thanks for the info and personal experience/opinions. I don't want noise or a squeaky rear end. Looks like I'll go with stock rubbers all around then.

But let the opinions keep coming. The more information we say the more it'll help people in the future regarding Ireland Engineering bushings and others similar.

[1996 328ti]

Originally Posted by Marv17

I don't want noise or a squeaky rear end.

No one likes a squeaky rear end.

[spidertri]

Here is a pretty good writeup comparing a bunch of different bushings/materials from one guys perspective.

http://www.torque-bound.com/Board/index.php?tid=18

Also, make sure you get ti/z3 subframe bushings, the E30 bushings are slightly different.

[Marv17]

Originally Posted by spidertri

Here is a pretty good writeup comparing a bunch of different bushings/materials from one guys perspective.

http://www.torque-bound.com/Board/index.php?tid=18

Also, make sure you get ti/z3 subframe bushings, the E30 bushings are slightly different.

wow, that is really some good information. Thanks for sharing the link.

[KingLouieII]

does anyone know how hard of a job it would be to do upgrade/replace the subframe and rta bushings as a DIY.

Also I've searched and can't seem to find a write-up... just looking for some good pointers in the right direction.

[spidertri]

I did my subframe bushings last year, I took it to a BMWCCA DIY event and was able to use a lift and a bunch of transmission jacks to keep the subframe/trailing arms "on the car". The CCA had the subframe bushing removal tool to rent, I don't know how I would have gotten my stock bushings out without it. My stock bushings were destroyed too, there was at least 1/2" to 3/4" that my subframe could move up and down.

As for write-ups, I found all the steps in various threads on this site. Just keep searching, it's all there. Some write-ups say that the driveshaft has to be disconnected but I didn't have to do that. I did have to undo the brake lines though. The tech that was giving me pointers told me every car he had done was a little different.

I used Cirrus' thread here http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9861 for the RTAB procedure. I haven't done mine yet but I have all the parts and homemade press tool. Can't wait to get that done.

[DaveKern]

Question for anyone who's done the rear subframe bushings. I pressed out my OEM ones yesterday and installed the IE racing ones on my rally car project.

The issue is that the metal center section appears to be about 1" longer than the ones I'm replacing, and it sticks up which seems like it'd have the effect of lowering the subframe that "1. Pictures of the bushings can be seen here in post #189 http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28728

I put the section with the grooves in from the bottom, and the ungrooved part got pressed in from the top. The urethane pressed in all the way so there are no gaps above/below the subframe...its just the inner metal tube seems too long. I was working on the car at a buddies shop so didn't have the car with me, and figured maybe that the extra tube would slot into the subframe mounting...but after looking at the car last night, that doesn't appear to be the case.

So...do I just trim down the excess tube so it sits flush with the bushing at top & bottom?

Any help appreciated. Thanks!

Dave

[1996 328ti]

Whenever I jack up my car I see about a 1" gap from the top of the bushing to the chassis. Is that what you are talking about?

I think my subframe bushings are green from Ireland.

[DaveKern]

Originally Posted by 1996 328ti

Whenever I jack up my car I see about a 1" gap from the top of the bushing to the chassis. Is that what you are talking about?

I think my subframe bushings are green from Ireland.

I think so...but the big bolts that attach to the chassis also have about 1" or so of space between them and the actual chassis.

I guess I'm unclear on why the aftermarket bushings are taller than the OEM ones? Is there some sort of geometry change they're attempting to correct? If that was the case, I'd expect they were to correct something on lowered cars...so I'm unsure if that's good for my application since my car will likely sit slightly above stock ride height.

In the top right of this image you can see one of the subframe bushings that's been pushed together. You'll notice that there's 1/2-1" of metal sticking out on the left...and now that its installed on the subframe, it's sticking out the top, so if I tried to install it as-is, it'll have the effect of lowering the subframe by that amount...I think.

[1996 328ti]

Sorry. I paid someone to install them.
I do find my car a bit more twitchy though.

[spidertri]

Originally Posted by DaveKern

I think so...but the big bolts that attach to the chassis also have about 1" or so of space between them and the actual chassis.

I guess I'm unclear on why the aftermarket bushings are taller than the OEM ones? Is there some sort of geometry change they're attempting to correct? If that was the case, I'd expect they were to correct something on lowered cars...so I'm unsure if that's good for my application since my car will likely sit slightly above stock ride height.

In the top right of this image you can see one of the subframe bushings that's been pushed together. You'll notice that there's 1/2-1" of metal sticking out on the left...and now that its installed on the subframe, it's sticking out the top, so if I tried to install it as-is, it'll have the effect of lowering the subframe by that amount...I think.

Make sure you got the ti/Z3 version of the bushings and not the E30 version. They are different.