Name this part!?

[adamb]

Originally Posted by zoner

It is critical to order a Genuine BMW replacement part for this application- not an aftermarket part!

Why do you say that? I've already ordered one from autohaus...

[zoner]

Originally Posted by adamb

Why do you say that? I've already ordered one from autohaus...

Start reading this thread at about post #49

This plastic fitting is a CRITICAL component of your cooling system, not to mention a total PITA to replace. It is well worth the extra cost (which really isn't all that much) to replace this part with the best quality part that you can so you're not replacing it again prematurely or worse, replacing a head gasket and/or cylinder head if it does fail prematurely. Pelican Parts carries the Genuine BMW part and o-ring and the price difference is less than $10. (and since they are also in CA, shipping to Sac. should only be 1-2 days. You may also want to see if your local dealer stocks this part and what the price difference is.) You also want to consider replacing the plastic Y-fitting on the back side of the cylinder head while you are doing this job and have everything apart- if one plastic pipe failed, the other is likely not far behind.

[adamb]

Originally Posted by CirrusSR22

Now, some will say always go with OE. So I did, and here's what I received just today straight from the BMW dealer.

The one on the right is an old, genuine BMW connect that I took out. It's the same one pictured above with the Uro Parts connector; it is perfectly straight. The one on the left is the new, genuine BMW connector I got today. It's not as bad as the MTC or Uro Parts, but it's definitely off. I knew it the second the parts person handed it to me. I decided to bring it home to inspect it closer.

Bottom line is with MTC, Uro Parts AND Genuine BMW, you may still be getting crappy parts.

My new pipe will be here tomorrow. Ill have to see if its warped like the ones the other members have received. While I have everything taken apart i'm doing some other maintenance. Replacing the coolant hoses and the brushes in the alternator, replacing the starter. I've got some new gaskets to throw on too.

The car was running hot for a few minutes when it started overheating. I was sitting in a drive-thru and couldn't really move my car. I'm hoping i didn't cause any damage to the head. How am i able to test if i did?

Also, before taking everything apart i didn't empty the coolant system. Was i supposed to? Would i be safe in doing a coolant flush when everything is back together?

I don't think i properly relieved the pressure from the fuel system either. Will i have problems putting the injectors back together? How am i able to clean the deposits of the injectors as well?

I hope i don't have much trouble putting my car back together. I tried to label as much as i could but i did forget to tag some things.

Sorry for all the questions, been thinking/worrying about this all for some time now.

[islandtime]

You can do a flush when its all back together but if your fluid looked good its not that necessary, if it was rusty looking then I would recommend it. Just be sure to follow the bleeding procedures or you can easily blow a head gasket, I forgot once to open the bleed screw and that caused air in the cylinder head and hot spots which popped the gasket. If the injectors are out then you relieved the fuel pressure so you won't have any issues putting them back in, there's no reason to take them out of the rail anyways. Be sure to put some oil on the rings before putting them back in the manifold though. As for cleaning them you can use a soft tooth brush and some carb cleaner to clean them. You can check to see if you blew the head gasket with a compression check but that may not be conclusive because that only tells if the fire rings were blown and sometimes it will test fine when cold, especially if it is a fresh issue since it hasn't burned the gasket enough to throw the compression alot. Many things only go one place and the wiring is generally hardened in a certain route so if you lay the harness out it will generally tell you where the remaining things go. As for genuine BMW vs aftermarket, many times the aftermarket is the same manufacturer as the BMW parts so as shown above getting the BMW parts doesn't mean you're getting better parts.

[Mr.Squeelerz]

Originally Posted by islandtime

You can do a flush when its all back together but if your fluid looked good its not that necessary, if it was rusty looking then I would recommend it. Just be sure to follow the bleeding procedures or you can easily blow a head gasket, I forgot once to open the bleed screw and that caused air in the cylinder head and hot spots which popped the gasket. If the injectors are out then you relieved the fuel pressure so you won't have any issues putting them back in, there's no reason to take them out of the rail anyways. Be sure to put some oil on the rings before putting them back in the manifold though. As for cleaning them you can use a soft tooth brush and some carb cleaner to clean them. You can check to see if you blew the head gasket with a compression check but that may not be conclusive because that only tells if the fire rings were blown and sometimes it will test fine when cold, especially if it is a fresh issue since it hasn't burned the gasket enough to throw the compression alot. Many things only go one place and the wiring is generally hardened in a certain route so if you lay the harness out it will generally tell you where the remaining things go. As for genuine BMW vs aftermarket, many times the aftermarket is the same manufacturer as the BMW parts so as shown above getting the BMW parts doesn't mean you're getting better parts.

Your chances are much better that you will have a good part if you go with BMW. Too many of us have made the mistake of installing the the aftermarket side block fitting only to try and manipulate the part to seat correctly and later finding leaks. Far too common of a problem. I've heard of people using gasket sealer to try and stop it....dumb. I, on the other hand, threw away the autohauz part the moment it didn't seat because I didn't want to compromise the entire system. You'll have better luck with the BMW part as far as the side block fitting goes.

OP... you've been warned. Don't try to make this part fit if it doesn't seat properly.

[adamb]

Originally Posted by Mr.Squeelerz

Your chances are much better that you will have a good part if you go with BMW. Too many of us have made the mistake of installing the the aftermarket side block fitting only to try and manipulate the part to seat correctly and later finding leaks. Far too common of a problem. I've heard of people using gasket sealer to try and stop it....dumb. I, on the other hand, threw away the autohauz part the moment it didn't seat because I didn't want to compromise the entire system. You'll have better luck with the BMW part as far as the side block fitting goes.

OP... you've been warned. Don't try to make this part fit if it doesn't seat properly.

Well i did what everyone else has done and tried to make the part fit. I managed to get the side to become fairly flush. I ended up shaving a couple thousandths off the flat part of the pipe. Then i also shaved down the same amount from where the bolt holes are and cut the metal bolt holders in half so they would fit properly. It took a lot of the gap away so i put an 1/8th inch of permatex gasket compound (which is made for water pipes) around the edge. We will see how it holds up. I tried to take some pictures of the modifications. I will upload what i have in a minute.