M3 3.2l engine swap OBD-II

[J!m]

I will be performing an OBD-II M3 engine swap into my OBD-II 318ti within the next month or so. The car is a 1998, and I ordered it new in '98.

All of the swaps I have seen have been converted to OBD-I (even the later OBD-II cars). this works fine, but is not how I do things.

I am contemplating making available (for a fee) a complete document with photos detailing all aspects of this swap for anyone who wants to learn from my extensive research (and thanks to all those who have helped me along the way). In it will be included sorces of supply, including many web-sites and the "right people to talk to" as you can go to the right place, and spend an hour talking to the wrong person...(been there).

If you are interested in this document, or would like to contribute bits of information, please let me know by e-mail.

I'm not going to get rich off this, but if time is valuable to you (not to mention money) I will be able to save you both with this document if you are interested in this swap. Once completed, it will be invaluable to anyone concidering this swap.

If you have done other engine swaps in the past, this is verry straightforward. The electronics are the hang-up, and as I type this I am doing research in that area.

E-mail me at jim.leach@sulzer.com

[myred318i]

I would be interested in it. I guess I'm not sure what the difference is, though. I have seen lots of information, even a shop in my area that does advertise these M3 conversions (OBD - I). What does that mean (OBD-I or OBD - II)?

I have a '95, and I am planning on doing a swap someday, either 2.8 or the M3 motor.

[Ralliart]

I'm interested...

[J!m]

To "myred":

You have OBD-I in your 1995. Get a 3.0 M-motor from an 1995, and it goes right in. You need the ECU and wiring with the engine, but your swap is very easy, which is why most shops convert the cars when the swap is done.

OBD-II is the latest generation in engine management. It also is not very tolerant to modification. To "chip" an OBD-II car, the chip must be de-soldered, where OBD-I has a plug for the e-prom, so chip swapping is easy.

Also, as part of OBD-II, there is the "driveaway protection" which is a bear to work around. Basically, you do the swap, and even if everything is hooked up correctly, the engine won't start.

In a nut-shell, you don't need the document I'm creating. There are many good shops which will do your swap if you are not up to it, and it should only take two days.

Have fun!

[ayton]

Interested in seeing what you come up with. But just to let you know people just don't do OBDI swaps for nothing, it yields more power...about 25hp! My friend has it on a 99 M3 and it screams.almost hard to believe his car is NA. and EWS isn't nearly the "bear" that everyone thinks it is

[myred318i]

Hey Jim,
Thanks for the info. RE: OBD-I. If I did an engine swap (3.0 M), what else do I need to swap? Tranny? Differential? With the change in power, are their any compnonents on my 318, that aren't up to the task?

Thanks!!

[J!m]

The rest of the package should be up to snuff. I'm not changing my trans or diff right away, because then I will need a custom drive shaft, which get plenty expensive.

The pilot bushing for the trans input shaft in the engine crank must be changed to accept the larger imput shaft of the ti trans. Other than that, no problem. It bolts right up.

The diff is the weak link, but should hold up fine unless you are dumping the clutch from redline or something stupid like that. E30 M3 diff is VERY similar, but the axle shafts must be "customized" for the instalation. Not too difficult, but the E30 diff does not just "bolt right in".

Brakes are a big issue. The easiest way to solve a few problems at once is to get complete struts with springs and spindles, calipers and rotors from an M3 4-door (2-door will probably work as well) and bolt the whole mess up. This is what I'm planning to do. This way, you have the heavier springs for the weight increase, as well as the brakes. AND, it all bolts in!

[ayton]

the diff isn't really a problem I know a few people with M3/ti swap and they have used the stock differential with no problems.

[J!m]

You can use either motor, but if you go with the later motor, you will have to change everything on the motor (fuel injectors, etc.) to work with OBD-I.

There is a vague aurticle in Bimmer magazine, I think it was August of 1998, where this type of swap was done (OBD-II motor into 1995 OBD-I ti) UUC Motorworks did the swap, I think.

[Ralliart]

What about using an older motor out of a 325. That way its still OBD1 and less expensive than an M3. This is a route that I was thinking about.

[J!m]

I don't see why that would not work. Get EVERYTHING with the motor. That's the key, because you have to change everything, and finding it piece by piece will cost a fortune.

BUT, what was the output of the 325/328? Not much over 200hp was it? Maybe a supercharger is the way to go.

Bolt it on in one day, and you have 200hp with no other modifications. And, at only 3k$, I would expect it to be cheaper than even a complete 325 motor (unless you already have a 325/328 donor car (make sure it's an E36 model), then the motor is cheaper. If it has miles on it, why not bore it and do some head work before installing it? That will get you REAL close to the 240hp of the 3.2.

Food for thought.

[myred318i]

This is really turning out to be quite an informative thread!

The last comment about the supercharger, kind of got me to thinking... for the dough spent, I'm accomplishing my goal of increased horsepower, and probably not spending half as much as it would cost me to replace with the M motor. It's not like I spend any time at the track, I just want more power than my chipped 1.8 provides now.
How would the S.C. affect my engine reliability and longevity? (I'm not harsh on any of my equipment, just like to blast up thru the gears occasionally)
Speaking of longevity, how long do most people expect their 1.8's to hold up? I've got close to 90K, and it seems to run just perfect. I had a BMW techie tell me that as long as I maintained the car and burned premium gas, I should get 175K no problem. Honestly, I expect 200-250. Is that realistic? Would you SC an engine with >100K miles?

I appreciate your input?

[Ralliart]

My problem is that I need a new trans. If I can find a 325 in a junk yard then I could possibly pull the whole engine and tranny.

[J!m]

I would expect in the neighborhood of 200k from a well maintained BMW engine. Good maintaince leeds to longevity. And, don't go by the idiot lights on the dash for oil changes, I change mine myself in between every dealer oil change, and a filter change between each of those wouldn't hurt either. (my first oil change was at 750miles, and the dealer thought I was NUTS) The oil just gets dirty, it doesn't wear out. Keep it clean, and it will act as a lubricant, rather than valve lapping paste, grinding away your engine.

Hey, don't forget the transmission and differential. I change both every 25k.

The car wil literally last forever if properly maintained. BMW has excellent support, so there is NO REASON not to care for the car.

The D/A supercharger has a 100k warranty on it. What more could you ask for??? In one day you will have a serious boost in the HP/Weight ratio.

The ti is about 400lb. lighter than the "average" M3. you don't need 220hp to play with the "big boys" in a ti. That's what makes the ti so great. It does not get a second glance at a stop light, but I'd almost bet it would keep up with a sacked-out auto-trans convertable... NOW add the blower, and things start to get interesting.

There are two ways to go fast: High horse-power, or light weight. Put them both together, and you go hunting for 911 turbo carrera's...

[J!m]

If you happen to be looking for a 325 or 328 motor (complete) try talking to Bob Alan at Bimmers South. (800-350-8986) Tell him I sent you to him.

He dismantles and inventories all the cars he gets in. No cars in an oil-mud mess. Decent pricing as well. Nice guy to boot. Let him know what you plan to do, and he should be able to bundle a package for you at a good price.

If you change the transmission (unless the 325/328 trans is the same as the ti) you will need a custom drive shaft, from what I've been told. Keep that in mind, because they can get up to $500.00