Engine Bogs shifting into 2nd

[dclevey]

I have read about a lot of people having this same issue on older posts but no one has posted the solution.

When my engine is warm and I shift into 2nd or 3rd gear, the motor bogs, shutters, shakes and shimmies until you hit 2k then takes off.

I have cleaned MAF, checked for air leaks, cleaned ICV, turned off my limited slip and will change fuel filter tomorrow.

Any one with this same problem find a fix?

I havent had the car for about a week, so I have no history.

I do know I need a thermostat because it runs cold. Any relation?

Also came with a NOPI muffler. Low Back pressure?

[dave45056]

Here is the solution...
Shift at 3000 rpm or higher.
The 4 cylinder engines love to rev and perform better in the high rpm range.
This is not a vw engine, its a bmw engine. So let it rev a bit and you will be rewarded.
You have addressed or are addessing the common problems.
Here are a couple more items you should add to the to-do list:
1. Change the spark plugs
2. Replace the plastic cooling fittings on the engine. Look for the diy on this in the knowledge base.
3. Get rid of the ricer nopi muffler and buy a Stromung cat back if you like noise, Ansa Sport if you like it quiet. The ack pressure is not a problem... The fart can sound is.
4. Rebuild the front suspension when you get a chance. Most of the ti's are getting old and a front end rebuild will make it like new again. rebuild kits on e-bay are cheap, but good quality.
5. You do not have a limited slip. You have traction control, aka ASC. ASC works by applying brakes and cutting off the air supply via a butterfly in the intake path. In my opinion, this system is a waste of time unless you are driving in snow.
6. A couple web sites you should check out are realoem.com, pelicanparts.com, getbmwparts.com, and autohausaz.com.

I hope you enjoy your car. The ti is one in a million.

[Eudaemonic]

Also, what kind of fuel are you running. When I was new to the M42 I didn't realize it needed >89 octane. Ever since I switched, it's been smoother and better MPG!

[Marv17]

vaccum leak or fuel pump? or injectors might be crappy now...

[familytruckster]

I'd say you are shifting way too low. You aren't driving a powerstroke diesel. I don't think I've ever driven a small 4 banger that likes 3rd gear under 2K.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Everyone is right. You need to shift after 3,000

I don't shift until I hit the limiter. Hell I don't even let off the gas petal when I shift.

***WARNING*** don't try this with your car, I paid a lot of money to be able to do this

[familytruckster]

Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

I don't shift until I hit the limiter. Hell I don't even let off the gas petal when I shift.

***WARNING*** don't try this with your car, I paid a lot of money to be able to do this

I don't either, but I have an automatic.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by familytruckster

I don't either, but I have an automatic.

I hear ya but are you banging them at 8,000rpm on the turbo to keep it spooled

Triple biggrin since everyone says you can't rev a hydralic lifter motor past 7,200, the valves will float.

Well they won't they don't pump up with oil, it doesn't work that way with BMW M44 lifters. Due to R&D with Metric you can take the OEM hydralic lifters to 8,800 (I have with no float) or as high as your cam profile will allow but I don't want a big window in the side of my block so I keep it at 8,000 on the turbo. This is a daily driver and I just past 25K of some hard driving on the Metric motor.

Little secret for anyone that is willing to listen, hydralic lifters will not float the valves.

Truth, John S

***Warning***To do 8,800 I needed a forged worked crank (M47 Diesel Stroker "88mm"), H-Beam rods rated at 500hp, Forged turbo pistons (top ring lowered 4mm 8.6:1), Single roller timing chains & sprockets (reduced Mass, big issue with higher rpm), Lightened valve train, Complete Hayabusa race spring & retainer conversion, Volvo valve conversion, correct hardware & bearings. Too many other mods to list, can't remember.

[slow_ti]

these 318ti's make you drive, if you wanna get any performance out of these cars, gotta know how to shift it.

[pdxmotorhead]

Bad thermostat really pisses my car off, it goes off power and gets lousy mileage... So I'd start there...

Dave

[vsonix]

Originally Posted by slow_ti

these 318ti's make you drive, if you wanna get any performance out of these cars, gotta know how to shift it.

true, although it teaches you pretty quickly - you can feel the syncro not actually stopping you from shifting but there is more resistance at engine speeds it 'doesn't like'. Some cars I have driven it's quite easy to slip into first gear instead of third, for example, especially when you're not familiar with the gate pattern yet, but it's really hard to push a ti into the wrong gear by accident. Actually for driving slowly round town I tend to push it round in 4th or 5th - 2nd and 3rd are really 'power gears' for acceleration...

[slow_ti]

Yeah true, learn the car and you can get better performance!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dclevey]

Thanks for all the input. I guess I just have to get used to rolling into turns in 1st gear.

Got a t stat on order. I'm sure that the temp sensor is playing a small role due to the car running so cool.

I'm going to clean my Icv one more time. The flap moves freely but when I unplug it, she idles great. Didn't realize how expensive that damn thing was.

Hopfully I bought a diamond in the rough.

[vsonix]

Originally Posted by dclevey

Thanks for all the input. I guess I just have to get used to rolling into turns in 1st gear.

I really only ever use first when starting from a complete standstill or if I have fat chicks on board on a steep hill... normally I find third is adequate for all but the tightest turns, in which case I drop to second, or sometimes I just stay in third but depress the clutch and feed it back in gently as I pick up momentum coming out...

Also I find if I'm rolling to a stop from a higher gear it makes for smoother driving just to pop it into neutral once the revs drop to 800 or so and coast along using the brakes to moderate my speed. Other cars I've driven it's not been necessary to do this, but it does make quite a difference with our cars. Part of the fun of the ti is the way there is a lot of engine braking as soon as you let off the accelerator, this contributes to the sporty feel through bendy twisty roads.
You can keep up really good progress even through a series of tight bends without needing to use the brake pedal much at all - if you let off the gas at the right point as you approach a bend then the engine does the rest. In fact after you've been driving it for a while you start to get frustrated with the other drivers who slam on the anchors hard whenever they see the road isn't straight anymore, and it takes quite a lot of self discipline not to get up on their tails as they are still braking and you are getting ready to power out of the corner like a stone from a slingshot.

ultimately the ti lets you drive with a heavy right foot but it also rewards smoothness and forward planning. Keep the revs high and momentum up and you will have trouble wiping the grin off your face every time you drive her

[dclevey]

It happened again today. I was above 4k in 3rd. Mabey "bogg" is the wrong term. More like a sputter and skip. I just kept on hammering on her till she threw a CEL. The CEL flashed 5-6 times then it sputtered all the way home. I Shut off the motor and started back up fine. Went back to normal after restart. Will get the code checked after a while. more than likely will show multiple misfires or some crap that wont help.