Apprehensive about Cooling DIY

[arcticZ3]

Hi all,

My M44 Z3 is due for a cooling overhaul. I've done simple DIYs like spark plugs, distributors (on another car), brakes, differential fluid changes, and oil changes. My question is, should I try and tackle the cooling system DIY or should I try and pay some local shop to do it for me? It seems like most of the sub-bonnet components need to come out to access that coolant connector...and I've never done a job quite so involved. Any advice?

How much should a shop charge for this job in the Bay Area, CA? Thanks.

[BlackBMWs]

Not sure about the Z3 layout specifically, but it should not be that hard to accomplish. The Y pipe on the back of the head is hard to get at on a TI without pulling off the Valve cover, not how accessible it is on a Z3. That's in my opinion the hardest part. All other are pretty manageable.

Where in the bay area are you?

[arcticZ3]

Oh ok - yeah it's just I've never had to dismantle just about everything to do a diy so I wasn't sure if I should leave this one to the pros or not. The M44 layout in the Z3 is pretty much identical to the ti which is why I thought this would be a good place to ask.

I'm in Berkeley, CA.

[BlackBMWs]

Originally Posted by arcticZ3

Oh ok - yeah it's just I've never had to dismantle just about everything to do a diy so I wasn't sure if I should leave this one to the pros or not. The M44 layout in the Z3 is pretty much identical to the ti which is why I thought this would be a good place to ask.

I'm in Berkeley, CA.

Ha! I passed Berkley three times this weekend. PM me, if I'm around there this weekend maybe we can meet up somewhere and we can have a look. If I can look under a hood of a Z3 1.9, I'd have a more accurate description. I know it is tighter, but that was on my brothers Z3 3.0.

PM me your contact info. maybe I'll trade you help for some sanding paint time on my boat. Cheers, Rich

[arcticZ3]

Sounds good - I think you'll have to PM me because I'm still a junior member on this forum. Thanks for the offer by the way.

[jca]

If it turns out that Rich can't help you out, keep in mind that any competent mechanic can perform a cooling system refresh on your Z3. You don't have to take it to an expensive BMW dealership for such work...and I can only begin to imagine what a dealer in the San Fran Berkeley area would charge per hour.

[arcticZ3]

Alright so I ordered the parts. I was inspecting the general layout of the car the other day when I noticed some white staining on the inner corner of the visible part of that coolant connector on the side of the block. Is this indicative of a very slow coolant leak, alluding to imminent failure - I'm thinking I should ground the car until I have the system overhauled. Thoughts?

[740isport]

If you're able to ground it until you can complete the work, that is the best option. But if you must drive it, keep a close eye on the coolant level and keep it full. But remember, when that block connection is leaking, you are on borrowed time, so I would get it done as soon as you can.

[jca]

Rule of thumb for all BMW's: Keep an eye on your temp guage. If the needle ever goes past 12 o'clock, pull off the road immediately, shut off the engine, and locate the problem. Don't try to limp home with an overheating engine, the guage doesn't have to go into the red zone, to result in a blown headgasket or worse. Ask me how I know! Cheers, John

[arcticZ3]

Tell me about it. My E39 started to push from the 12 o'clock last year and I did just that (luckily no blown gasket, just a slow coolant leak under the intake manifold that went unnoticed). Ever since that I've contracted overheatophobia, so I watch the temp gauge more frequently than my speed, even on brand new cars fresh from the dealer... Gotta love BMWs

[BlackBMWs]

Animesh, if you are speaking of the Y connector on the back of your M44, please take and post a pic of your engine compartment with an emphasis on the back of the valve cover. Take a few pics. Just want to get an idea of access to the plastic connector relative to the firewall and cabling harnesses. Call me this evening after posting photos.


1998 & 1997 318ti Sport Schwartz II
1995 318ti Active Alpineweib III

[jca]

Originally Posted by arcticZ3

Tell me about it. My E39 started to push from the 12 o'clock last year and I did just that (luckily no blown gasket, just a slow coolant leak under the intake manifold that went unnoticed). Ever since that I've contracted overheatophobia, so I watch the temp gauge more frequently than my speed, even on brand new cars fresh from the dealer... Gotta love BMWs

Google Engine Watchdog from Australian Signals. Watches your temp for you and buzzes loudly when the temp exceeds your preset figure. Install it then set the buzzer to go off just above your engine's max temp on a hot day. That way you get a warning before your water temp needle starts to creep up. Cheers, John

[arcticZ3]

I had a surprise day off today and tackled the cooling system overhaul. I think start to finish it took me a little over 10 hours. I think the biggest PITA was the hose clamps on some of those really tucked away hoses and getting that air duct off the radiator. I'll post a couple pictures in the coming days.

Rich - to answer your question about the firewall/valve clearance, it wasn't too bad. I actually found that getting the hose clamps on and off the Y connector was harder than actually replacing the connector itself. To bolt it in, I used my left arm and stuck it through the back of the valve cover from the passengers side of the vehicle and then felt for the connector bolts. Once located, I got my socket on it and it came right off. Did the same thing for the reinstall - additionally used a mirror to ensure it was seated correctly against the block. Luckily I didn't have to pull off the valve cover.

Thanks everyone who took the time out of their day to provide some insight on this thread. I'm definitely feeling accomplished!