Rough idle for 40 seconds followed by white smoke

[cooljess76]

Aw man, that sucks dude. Sorry to hear that, but glad you found it before install. If you don't mind me asking, how much did they charge to inspect it? I'm probably going to hit up my junkyard sometime this week, I'll BOLO.

[applefan]

Jess, No they didn't charge me anything for inspection. May be because I gave them go ahead to do the resurfacing and vavle jobe for $275, before finding out the crack. If Its just resurfacing its very cheap, I think it was $35, but I have to take the cams and valves out myself.

[BlackBMWs]

Applefan, did you did find or reference a list of typical renewal parts for the head renewal? Also after resurfacing, are you using a standard standard thickness head gasket? I can't imagine it would make a difference unless there was a lot of material removed.

Thanks!

[pdxmotorhead]

OK, so i gotta say it... Why put a rebuilt head on a used bottom end, this was common years ago when the bottom end of a motor would outlast 3 sets of heads, but these days unless the bottom end is < 100K or better yet 80 K miles I'd pull the whole motor and rebuild or put a low mileage used motor in and drive it.

My experience is that motors with over 100K the block is usually as warped as the head when you remove it... about 8 times out of ten a newly rebuilt head on top of a tired bottom end = < 20K life and blooey...

I tried this on many motors, shop I used to work at we would NOT warantee anything when this was done too many returns and mad customers.

If nothing else the top of the block needs to be cleaned (I used a chemical cleaner) and checked with a precision straight edge.

Change the cam-chain guides while your in there...

Cheers.
Dave

[BlackBMWs]

Dave, I hear you. Thanks for the feedback as I've been mulling over how much life I want out of this motor vs prepping a fresh rebuild. This car was targetted to be my other lite daily driver, sharing duties with my 318ic Vert.

I wondered about the flatness of the surface on the block. 188k on the current motor. I've been debating just pulling it all as it will need a clutch soon and it's easy to pull motor and tranny out at once. If I did that, I'd rebuild that motor. Also now looking for a used M44 motor, found one for $700 about 60 miles away, 192k. Posted a few questions, but still looking. Not interested at this point for a M52 or S52 swap.

I did have good luck on a rebuilt head for my 533i/M30 with 150k, I never expected to double the mileage on that motor, but did with no issues and still running strong.

On my 325i, I picked it up for the body with a blown HG. I swapped motors with a recent M50 rebuild with low miles. Quite lucky and happy with that motor for $350.

Applefan, I don't mean to hijack your thread.

Thanks again for the feedback and having me enteratin options... Cheers!

[BlackBMWs]

Originally Posted by pdxmotorhead

OK, so i gotta say it... Why put a rebuilt head on a used bottom end, this was common years ago when the bottom end of a motor would outlast 3 sets of heads, but these days unless the bottom end is < 100K or better yet 80 K miles I'd pull the whole motor and rebuild or put a low mileage used motor in and drive it.

Dave

Dave, thanks for the nudge. Found a donor M44 from a rolled 318ti Sport.



I'll swap when I get a free weekend.

[applefan]

Originally Posted by BlackBMWs

Dave, thanks for the nudge. Found a donor M44 from a rolled 318ti Sport.



I'll swap when I get a free weekend.

Nice! How many miles on it ? How much you paid for it, if you don't mind me asking?

I am going in the cylinder head replacement route. found a decent rebuilt head for $600. waiting for the weekend to finish putting it together

[BlackBMWs]

Originally Posted by applefan

Nice! How many miles on it ? How much you paid for it, if you don't mind me asking?

I am going in the cylinder head replacement route. found a decent rebuilt head for $600. waiting for the weekend to finish putting it together

Higher miles, 192k. $590, which included most all of the accesories, wiring harness, MAF, FW/PP. The PO was a BMW mechanic at Sonoma Raceway. He had just replaced many accessable hoses, Thermostat, WP, VCG, belts, oil & filter before rolling the car. Very clean, (but not cleaned) motor.

Next used engine in the area was $1200 for just the base engine.

I'll replace the Y-pipe at the rear of the head, the water pipe on the drivers side and any other aged hoses. I'll also likely replace the rear main seal, the clutch plate and the shift bushings since it's all out anyway.

Good luck with your reassembly! I'll pull my old one apart to see what actually failed.

[applefan]

That's a great deal. you going to replace yourself?

[BlackBMWs]

Originally Posted by applefan

That's a great deal. you going to replace yourself?

Ya, I may have a buddy over for the swap in/out action. I did an M50 swap for my son's E36 325i/auto which was tighter than this M44/manual swap will be. Mainly a time availability thing for me.

[cooljess76]

+1 on replacing the plastic coolant fittings. You may consider removing and inspecting the waterpump and thermostat as well. Also make sure you bleed the cooling system very thoroughly after install.

[applefan]

Originally Posted by cooljess76

+1 on replacing the plastic coolant fittings. You may consider removing and inspecting the waterpump and thermostat as well. Also make sure you bleed the cooling system very thoroughly after install.

Jess or anybody: I didn't start yet, but gathering all the information before starting the work:-
any advise on how to put the timing cover back ? i need to use some kind of adhesive to keep the gasket from falling ?
Oil change before closing the valve cover?
Should I prime the chain tensioner with oil after draining and before putting it back on the block ?

[BlackBMWs]

Originally Posted by applefan

Jess or anybody: I didn't start yet, but gathering all the information before starting the work:-
any advise on how to put the timing cover back ? i need to use some kind of adhesive to keep the gasket from falling ?
Oil change before closing the valve cover?
Should I prime the chain tensioner with oil after draining and before putting it back on the block ?

Others can chime in.

I fill the oil tensioner before I reinstall it on my other motors. Shorter rattle on startup.

For the timing cover gasket, what about Permatex High tack gasket sealer. spray on the back of the gasket (Block side) and refit cover.

Originally Posted by cooljess76

+1 on replacing the plastic coolant fittings. You may consider removing and inspecting the waterpump and thermostat as well. Also make sure you bleed the cooling system very thoroughly after install.

Thanks Jess! are you referring to the Y fitting on the back of the M44 head and the plastic pipe on the left/drivers side of the block?



if so, I do have both to replace as well as every cooling and heater hose. I put the engine on a stand this evening and tomorrow I'll see if I can replace the coolant pipe without removing the intake manifold. I don't know how folks replace the rear Y fiting with the engine installed. I'd need a 5 years old's hands for the clearance.


I think I can get to the retaining bolts if I just remove the alternator. I'll be pulling the new water pump off the failed engine and swapping to the donor as the PO did not replace the WP in the last 40k. The new WP has less than 200 miles on it. The PO replaced the thermostat in the last 10k miles. I have a new one if the other is suspect.

Since I have it out, I'll replace the clutch/pressure plate as they are original, TOB and pilot bushing. The rear seal is not leaking, but after 192k, I'll replace it. I'll look back at shifter replacements. I forget which one folks have swapped to for the M44 for a shorter throw. I'll check the shifter bushings and linkage to renew them. Guibo and CSB gets checked as well.

I'll be definately ensure this one is bled well. I don't mind one engine swap... Two would definately piss me off.

Thanks for your tips!

[BlackBMWs]

Preping to pull the failed motor tomorrow. Checked compression to confirm damage. 90PSI on cyls 1/2 120PSI on cyls 3/4.

I plan to drop the replacement engine in next weekend after installing renewing parts.

[RedTRex]

I just had the same problem on my sons 97 328i - ended up having cracks just like your head by 2 cyls though (2 and 4). My local machine is superb, they were able to weld the cracks plus plane it, pressure check, cut the valves, and new seals for $600. I pulled the cams but left the valves in.