What Differential Pray Tell ?!?!? Help!

[BlackBMWs]

Diff fluid? 75/90w Redline for a non LSD is an option. I also used to bring a clean plastic milk jug to the dealer and get 1.25l of their diff fluid.

Fill it before install. Way easier. Clean replacement diff before install. Don't get water in the vent.

Check all the Torx bolts to see if any need replacing.

Check half shafts for rubber boot cracking.


1997 318ti Sport schwartz

[AnuketTi]

Originally Posted by BlackBMWs

Diff fluid? 75/90w Redline for a non LSD is an option. I also used to bring a clean plastic milk jug to the dealer and get 1.25l of their diff fluid.

Fill it before install. Way easier. Clean replacement diff before install. Don't get water in the vent.

Check all the Torx bolts to see if any need replacing.

Check half shafts for rubber boot cracking.


1997 318ti Sport schwartz

Thanks! I should be able to find this at my local O'Reillys? Is Diff oil the same as gear oil? Just wondering.... :dunno

[BlackBMWs]

You're welcome. It will be listed as gear oil.

[AnuketTi]

What a Bloody Frustrating day!!!!

So, yesterday I spent about five hours removing and installing a replacement rear Diff in the car. I was able to use my buddy's shop in the city so I had tools are my disposal and also a lift which was a great help.

It was a bit of a pain in the derriere at times, this was mainly due to rusty bolts and some hard to reach areas but I had the original unit out within an hour or so.

I then spent time cleaning up the replacement diff and and also transferring a couple of items like the speed sensor in the back. I then installed the back plate with an OEM gasket and started the installation process.

This can be a real PITA!!!! Getting the top mounting bolts on takes a little bit of wizardry to get in, but I got it done with help from my buddy. After the diff was installed, we fill it up using 80W90 oil - I checked with the dealer and a couple of BMW techs I know and this was okay to use in the diff. I didn't mind the slightly heavier oil as the car was a daily driver and would be taking long trips here and there.

Anyway.... got the diff all filled and bolted up. Brought the car down and went for a drive. For the first time ever, the car drove like it was supposed to. It was quiet and no droning or whine from the rear. This was great as it confirmed that the issue all along was the diff.

Well..... I then decided to drive down to my storage place in the Peninsula which is about 30 miles away. On the way down, I started to notice that every time I lifted my foot off the pedal, there was a hum from the rear.

I was worried and upset as I had just replaced the Diff. I listed closely and it was definitely coming from the diff AGAIN!

I figured it was a bad diff.... but I wasn't sure. As I exited the freeway to get to my storage place, the noise got louder and it became a clanging, grinding noise.

When I got the my place, I put the car on jack stands to see what was going on. At first I was concerned that the back plate bolts were not snug enough and all the oil had drained out. Check the oil, but the diff was full as it was when it was first installed.

I then noticed there was an alarming amount of plate from the bearing at the drive shaft. Sure enough, as soon as I rolled the wheels you could see the play occurring at the drive shaft joint.

I tried to nurse the car home to where I might be able to at least work on it - NEVER MADE IT! The drive shaft started to buck and the car would occasionally seize forward movement as the drive shaft bucked, so the car is now on the side of the road in the Peninsula.

I have spoken with the seller of the Diff and we will be trying to figure this out. From what I can tell, I got it with a bad bearing or something.

Here is my taxi ride home after this event....

[BlackBMWs]

Michael,

I'm reading this and feeling for you Bud. I have a spare 3.45 open diff you can have for free if that is the actual issue. Don't take a cab up here, I'll figure out a way to get it down to you.

At this point, could it be a drive shaft or center support bearing issue? Did you pre load the Drive shaft when you tightened it up? Is the play Fore/Aft or side to side?

Rich

[AnuketTi]

Originally Posted by BlackBMWs

Michael,

I'm reading this and feeling for you Bud. I have a spare 3.45 open diff you can have for free if that is the actual issue. Don't take a cab up here, I'll figure out a way to get it down to you.

At this point, could it be a drive shaft or center support bearing issue? Did you pre load the Drive shaft when you tightened it up? Is the play Fore/Aft or side to side?

Rich

Hi Rich -

I actually put the car up on Jack Stands to see what the issue was and as I put it into 1st and 2nd gear to identify the noise. I could see the play between the drive shaft end and the diff shaft mount / flange. After shutting it down, I went under there and was able to move the flange around significantly by hand. It's got play all over - lateral and vertical.

Michael

[AnuketTi]

Well.... what can I say. I often end up in BMW communities that are filled with amazing people. I think it's only been one other community I ventured into that wasn't "quite" nice.

Anyway... I just want to say thanks to James and Rich for reaching out and helping me out with this crazy situation. I can tell you that based on the members I am meeting on here, I most certainly hope to be around for a while.

I picked up another differential last night from Rich (Thanks Man!) and James not only made things right but was extremely kind enough to provide a center support bearing - just in case the one in there is toast by now. It was great to meet Rich for the first time and to see James again. I learn more about these lil cute ugly ducklings every day. Yep! I call the Ti a Cute Lil Ugly Duckling! Sue me! LOL!

Hopefully, I can install this puppy tomorrow if I get all my other parts that I need. I will keep you guys posted.

[BlackBMWs]

Ya, it was great meeting and chatting with you as well. I think we covered as much 5 series items as we did TI stuff.
I hope you don't have to do a M62 swap for your 5, but if so, that would be a cool DIY. S62 in the future? 😋

I look forward to the next meet where we all can get together.

Btw, you win as far as having more BMWs. 😎




1998 & 1997 318ti Sport Schwartz II
1995 318ti Active Alpineweib III

[AnuketTi]

Originally Posted by BlackBMWs

Ya, it was great meeting and chatting with you as well. I think we covered as much 5 series items as we did TI stuff.
I hope you don't have to do a M62 swap for your 5, but if so, that would be a cool DIY. S62 in the future? ��

I look forward to the next meet where we all can get together.

Btw, you win as far as having more BMWs. ��




1998 & 1997 318ti Sport Schwartz II
1995 318ti Active Alpineweib III

HA HA! I don't know if I win on the BMW count currently. I only have the Ti, the Touring and the ACS-5.

Previously though, I have had:

1995 525i Touring
1995 540i Touring (Grey Market)
1995 525i Touring
1995 540i 6-Speed
1995 740i
2001 740i x 4
2000 750iL
2003 540i M-Sport Dinan 5
2003 325Ci Convertible
2003 X5 M-Sport 4.4L

In the garage parting out:

2001 M5
1998 540i Sport
2003 540i M-Sport
1998 540i Dinan 5

LOL!


I unfortunately no longer have an S62 handy, but I do have an M62 sitting on the garage floor - swap shouldn't be too bad, just the manual trans swap.

[BlackBMWs]

Part outs count. OK, I have more running, but, you have major parts cars.

As you saw, I need to have a BMW parts sales as I have too many generations of parts.


Cheers, Rich


1998 & 1997 318ti Sport Schwartz II
1995 318ti Active Alpineweib III

[AnuketTi]

UPDATE: First, I need to thank James, Rich and my man Steve for all the combined help with this car.

Steve and I spent the entire day replacing the faulty rear differential on the car. This time we took off the exhaust and the heat shield to examine the center support bearing and the drive shaft.

Amazingly enough, the support bearing appeared fine from the scrutiny we gave it. Getting the diff out wasn't too bad - even on our backs. At least the car was way high to give better access.

On examination, we found signs of sever shearing inside the diff and saw why it was locking up. Seems it was indeed a compromised input shaft bearing - at least that is what it seemed like. Who knows why or how it happened at this point.

We then proceeded to put the replacement diff together and this time did our best to "bench" test it on the floor and filled it with BMW XJ Diff oil on the ground. We fill it just shy of 2 quarts and checked it's operation before sealing it up. I purchased a bunch of new parts like gasket, bolts and O ring ring for the speed sensor to minimize any potential for issues.

After installation, we took for the car for a city drive and freeway spin of about 8 miles. For now, I can report the car is operational with evident issues with the drive train.

Alas, all is not 100% perfect. The bloody car decided to spit out one of it's grills on the road, right in front of the left front wheel / tire - 500 YARDS FROM HOME! Go figure!

So far, so far.... I will keep you posted.

Again thanks so much for being another great BMW community!

[BlackBMWs]

Michael,

Well, your car certainly has character! How did you inspect/test the CSB? while further up, is the guibo in good shape as well? There are two TI's in your vicinity if you need to hunt down a driveshaft. I saw one in Richmond was a 5 speed (when I was speaking with you this morning) that had it's drivetrain intact if you have to go that route.

The early E36 grills will work if you have an original nose. The fatter ones in the later years are different sizes. Ensure you get one with intact retention clips and check the corresponding receiving tabs in the nose piece. Is your nose piece original or replaced with a later year? I don't recall.

Congrats on this step. Sounds like you have a few left to go. Cheers, Rich

[AnuketTi]

Originally Posted by BlackBMWs

Michael,

Well, your car certainly has character! How did you inspect/test the CSB? while further up, is the guibo in good shape as well? There are two TI's in your vicinity if you need to hunt down a driveshaft. I saw one in Richmond was a 5 speed (when I was speaking with you this morning) that had it's drivetrain intact if you have to go that route.

The early E36 grills will work if you have an original nose. The fatter ones in the later years are different sizes. Ensure you get one with intact retention clips and check the corresponding receiving tabs in the nose piece. Is your nose piece original or replaced with a later year? I don't recall.

Congrats on this step. Sounds like you have a few left to go. Cheers, Rich

Rich - I don't know if I would call it character. The car is more like a basket case! LOL!

The front end is original as far as I can tell. I would love to have a newer front piece - I don't know if they are interchangeable.

We checked the center bearing by removing all the stuff under it and examining it by manipulating the drive shaft itself. Also, on the test drive there was no evidence of imminent failure or issues with it at street and freeway speeds.

I will be removing the driveshaft at some point so I will replace it then. The bloody Guibo is way past it's expiration date! That definitely needs to be replaced so I have my work cut out for me.

I will drop by Richmond one of these days when I can fit it into my schedule - don't know when I will have the time though - so many things on my plate at the moment.

I will see if the replacement diff has solved the major drivetrain issue and then go from there.

Cheers and thanks a million again.

Michael

[BlackBMWs]

The Richmond TI is pretty well gone over, but it did have a driveshaft and diff. Looks like the San Jose TI is gone. It was a 5 speed too.

the E36 nose pieces are interchangeable. the difference between early and later models are the grills themselves. I like the later nose pieces. I have an earlier model that I will swap into my white ti, both came from E36 Sedans.

The Guibo is not hard to change. Just loosen the six nut/bolts and drop the center bearing. (Heat shield and exhaust come off first. When you do the Guibo, Since you are in the vicinity, I recommend you replace the shift bushings and shims while you are there. Shorter shift shaft too.

I used one off of a Z4 3.0. Other folks used different ones depending on which tranny/engine combo they have installed and clearance for the selector rod. It makes a positive noticeable difference. I'll be doing this soon on my 98.

Cheers Michael!

[AnuketTi]

Well.... Update report. I drove the car approximately 60 miles - street and freeway speeds of up to 70 MPH and so far, no apparent symptoms as before.