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Old 12-03-2010, 01:23 PM   #16
Bluebimma
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If youre sure the rear bushings are done for, then they need to be replaced, otherwise, the rear will cause instability. Camber has never been an issue for me and im lowered about 3", -2.5* camber in front, 5.5* caster, 0* toe, -1.5* camber rear with mcoupe spings and -2 with coilovers, toe stays within factory spec. I have brand new front suspension from the ground up and havent had any issues with the car going straight. Im replacing the rear subframe bushings, toe and camber kit, and reinforcing the different mount location for further stability and equaling out the torque distribution.
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Old 12-03-2010, 01:34 PM   #17
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Default So the question is...

...will replacing subframe bushings bring rear camber back into specs? (provided that the left rear trailing arm is not bent?) Cuz that's what it's starting to look like. Off to the junkyard then, because at 900 plus clams, that's out of the question.
I just don't want to put myself in a position where I replace a bunch of stuff and it still doesn't sit on the ground correctly.
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Old 12-03-2010, 02:23 PM   #18
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You need to do subframe and trailing arm bushings to make sure
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Old 12-03-2010, 04:36 PM   #19
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Sounds like you have a bent arm to me.. but Don't forget to check your rear shocks! After lowering my ti, it became more stable, I did install trailing arm bushings, even though the originals (140k) were cracked looking on the outside, the rubber was still all there and I don't think it added that much to the instability. Also still running stock subframe bushings (same thing, they looked ripped, but upon removing the subframe, they werent ripped apart or anything so I don't think it would be much different from stock) stock m coupe/roadster has the same subframe bushings. But I do plan on installing harded bushings eventually. I just wanted to test out the difference. BUT I did replace the rear shocks and noticed one of the old ones was dead. I think that was the main cause of my rear instability. lowered about 3", rear toe bothers me more than the neg. camber. my rear tires wore down THROUGH the steel belt on the inside corner and still had tread on the outside.. commuting and not hard track time, but the combo of toe and camber really eats the tires up.. and limits traction..
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Old 12-03-2010, 09:04 PM   #20
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Okay, here's one new observation--the stock exhaust actually comes in contact with the axle housing--sometimes I hear a rattle, sometimes not, which means axle housing takes a different position over every bump. A weekend rebuild of the rear suspension is in order.
Please help with creating a parts/tools list:
Remember, I'm still shooting for OEM MOST of the way. I have seen on another forum how to remove the subframe bushings without removing the axle shaft housing and how to fabricate the tool to do it. (Hope I marked it). I'll see about procedure as I accumulate parts and tools.

For the weekend rear end rebuild I already have:
oem style shocks, mounts, and bolts.
one jack and set of stands
So I need:
another jack and stands
rear subframe bushings left and right

rear trailing arm bushings left and right

stabilizer brackets and links, and bushings (they have a little rot and wiggle)

How about dimensions for the left rear trailing arm, so I can check it by measuring to see if it's bent or not?

And what else?
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Old 09-13-2017, 07:41 PM   #21
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You need some type of heat gun to loosen the bushing when you are removing them. It will make your day much easier!
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Old 09-15-2017, 10:48 AM   #22
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This is a 7 year old thread.
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Old 09-15-2017, 03:32 PM   #23
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Bushing probably have been replaced more than once by now.
But the heat gun is probably good advice.
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