AutoX Suspension setup

[03whitegsr]

I am collecting parts to go through my suspension this spring and had a few questions I was hoping to get some advice on. This is a daily driver that I autox in street mod often. I'm not too worried about being overly stiff as I only drive about 15 miles a day. The car currently weighs 2450 and should be down to 2350 by this summer.

I am on a fairly tight budget so I plan on getting the BC Racing coilovers and going fairly stiff. I was planning on 650# front springs and 1100# rears. I want to go stiff enough I can pull the rear sway bar to help with inside rear tire lift on tight turn-abouts. I was going to use the stock front sway bar to start to reduce cost initially. If I find I need more, I was planning on the Ground Control M3 adjustable bar as, from what i have read, the BC coilovers will work with the M3 swaybar setup?

Does this sound like an effective setup so far?

I will also be replacing the bushings. For rear camber/toe adjustment, I was planning on the Ireland Posi-lock kit for both the inside and outside mounts. I was also looking at the AKG 12mm offset bushings. Is there a good reason to use the offset version if you are using the camber/toe kits? Or should I go with a non-offset bushing kit? Is the 75D kit too much as far as damaging other parts and mounts?

I was also going to do the Ireland RTABs. For the front, should I also add some caster with the Offset Delrin lower control arm bushings? Lastly, I have some 17x8.5 +42 wheels. I assume I'm going to need a spacer to clear a coilover? How much of a spacer is it going to require and is adding the front track width going to negatively affect this setup?

Thanks for any help. I’m looking forward to not having 6” of body roll this year.

[teen ti]

if you don't already get an LSD and some good tires, they'll be worth a lot of time

[03whitegsr]

I've got an LSD, however I think it's worn out and needs a refresh. I was considering doing a 3-plate upgrade. I'd like to find a spare to do it to though.

I also have some RS3 tires on it now. They are only 215s as when I bought them, they were out of stock on most other sizes. I'll be going to some 245/40/17 next time, probably RS3 again unless the new Star Spec ZII perform better.

[tungsten2k]

eBay camber/caster kit (dibed_tuning):
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=99299704594

Adjustment of camber isn't as easy as caster (unfortunately) but they're strong and cheap and can dial in a ton of caster so no need to swap LCAs to M3. Need to buy 6 flange-head bolts (easily found at Autozone, etc) and file flats on them to replace the standard head ones he ships them with, or they'll dent up the adjustment groove after a while). Pm me if, after you get them, you don't see what I'm talking about.

Rear weld-on tabs and rear 325/M3 lower control arm camber adj bolt conversion for toe adj (I'd do inners too for camber but you said you were on a budget - camber lowered is about right so not as critical). Having done this myself, I would seriously consider the pre-welded subframe exchange (you've been warned). Any offset adjusters aren't worth pissing on; the adjustment isn't there since there's no way to adjust toe independently from camber).

http://store.bimmerworld.com/mobile/...18ti-p889.aspx


No offset bushings anywhere. Just your fave stiff bushings. No solid bushings (rears will bind and/or loosen from alignment geometry differences from stock due to added adjustment points). UUC tranny mounts or whatever similar (you can do the "hose clamp around the bushing" trick if you're really strapped) along with comparable stiff rear diff bushing. That should be it. If you're really looking for essentials (best bang/$$$ aside from Springs/Shocks/Tires of course.

[tungsten2k]

Oh, forgot: of you spring for rear sub exchange, choose your stiff mounts. If you do it yourself, leave stock sub mounts and buy some rubber mat material (orchard supply, etc) to make washer-shaped spacers to take up gap above/below bushing and body/sub mount flange (cheap yet very solid soln).

[03whitegsr]

With regards to the offset bushings in the rear, I am only talking about the offset subframe bushing that moves the subframe up in the chassis 12mm. I am not talking about the eccentric rear trailing arm bushings.

[tungsten2k]

Originally Posted by 03whitegsr

With regards to the offset bushings in the rear, I am only talking about the offset subframe bushing that moves the subframe up in the chassis 12mm. I am not talking about the eccentric rear trailing arm bushings.

Ah, yes, good. Although tire clearance becomes an issue with 245s (without them, 255s). If you're running smaller, or willing to relief where necessary, not a problem.

Have fun!

[03whitegsr]

The offset subframe bushings reduce tire clearances? Kind of surprising as it really shouldn't have much of an impact on where the tire sits? Is it something a roll will take care of with 255s or is it problems elsewhere?


I could see it causing issues with the camber/toe kit though as it moves the subframe closer to the body? The Ireland brackets are a decent amount larger than I expected.


I ordered up the Ireland toe and camber kits for the rear and the trailing arm bushings. About to order the subframe/diff bushings from AGK and just tryign to figure out if I should go offset or not and which durometer. Differential noise kind of sucks (I’ve got an EVO with solid aluminum mounts and it’s unbearable on the freeway) so I’m not sure if I can even bring myself to get the 75D bushings to get the offset version.