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HOW TO: Ignition Lock Cylinder/Assembly Replacement
HOW TO: Ignition Lock Cylinder/Assembly Replacement
Published by CaliDohBoy
03-25-2006
Default HOW TO: Ignition Lock Cylinder/Assembly Replacement

BMW Dealer: $850.00 APPROX
YOU: $233.73

What you will need:
-Lock Assembly (Part # 32-32-1-093-265 $147.42)
-Lock Cylinder (Have to be ordered thru a BMW dealer in person, because is a coded part that will match your current key (Part # 32-32-0-002-*** $64.00)
-EWS Ring Antenna (Part # 61-35-8-364-709 $20.51)
-Fracture Bolt? (Part # 32311160255 $2.51)


1. Disconnect the battery negative (-) terminal. (Make sure you got the radio activation code before disconnecting)

2. Remove steering wheel.

3. Remove lower dash then unscrew the steering column upper and lower fastener screws and unclip the two halves so that you can get the shrouds off the column.

(Refer to this picture if you need help on identifying a part: Real OEM)

4. Remove the switch from the Lock Assembly &/or holder (holds the cruise control, wipers, and turning signals) losing the fastener screw/pull it out; the holder will be release by depressing a couple of retaining tangs located at top.

5. Remove the ignition switch by unscrewing a set of two screws holding it against the lock assembly.

6. This step may require some BMW tools, but you can use some pliers, a flat screw driver and an extra hand. Remove a ring retaining the Lock Assembly located in front of the steering column by forcing it with the pliers, and with the extra hand have it pull the ring with the flat screw driver. Pull a couple of spacers and washers and that’s it.

7. Loosen the steering column by removing a couple of shear-bolts (fracture bolts?), the best way to do so drill the head off!!!, I tried the Dremel thing so I would be able to unscrew them off with a flat screw driver but it was just a waste of time and the same with the hammer and chisel idea (Haynes manual), they are pretty tight. USE A DRILL!

8. Rotate counterclockwise a black plastic ring located at the bottom of the steering column; so that the steering column is loosen for the next step.

9. Now is time to get the Lock Assembly off by unscrewing a couple of shear-bolts, AGAIN!, which is holding it against the steering column, to get this bolts off is easier to use the Dremel idea, but drilling the head off will be…faster I guess.

10. For the ignition switch, after putting the bolts back, mark them off with some paint just like they were before.

11. Oh! To replace the shear-bolts that you broke (and the fracture bolts aren't the same thing), buy hex head bolts this time, so that you don’t have to go thru the hazard ok drilling them off again if anything happens. (forgot the sizes sorry, just take the old ones to Home Depot to measure them with new ones [$1.80])

Total: $233.73
Saved: $616.27
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  #1  
By GWENG on 01-09-2007, 06:45 PM
Default

Where did you get your parts?

Thanks,

Greg
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  #2  
By 96cali on 01-09-2007, 06:58 PM
Default

My indy mech did this for less than $233, maybe parts are less?
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  #3  
By GWENG on 01-09-2007, 07:05 PM
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Who is your indy mech? I am in So Cal.
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  #4  
By mskura on 06-09-2007, 06:13 PM
Default

Is that what I need to do in order to replace/repair the steering wheel lock?
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  #5  
By Lipstick_Ride on 11-29-2007, 05:29 AM
Default

Do I have to install the cylinder lock into the assembly before putting the lock assembly on the steering column?
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  #6  
By feelstyl on 03-31-2008, 05:49 AM
Default

just put a start button i 'lll do this
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  #7  
By 9644 on 07-28-2013, 04:47 PM
Default

I recently had to replace mine. Although dis-assembly is pretty straight forward, removing the shear bolts can be difficult on a 17 year old car. The 2 holding the housing to the column are heat treated or case hardened. You will need cobalt drill bits to get through them. I suggest having more than 1 because they will dull pretty fast. The 2 shear bolts holding the case together are only a little bit easier.
I also recommend replacing everything at once since the parts wear together. You will only want to do this once.
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