M44 overheating

[Bills86e]

The car now that it is bled, no longer overheats or loses coolant
as it now will stay every day at the Halfway mark on the expansion tank, just where its supposed to be. no low speed fan has been
heard, I am nervous about that. Anyone ever get into the ECM/DME
and see "points"??? My guage is at 12 o'clock while driveing.

[cooljess76]

Originally Posted by Bills86e

The car now that it is bled, no longer overheats or loses coolant.

Wow! Who would've thought that ALL IT NEEDED was a proper bleedingWait, wasn't that suggested in the second post? Glad you got it sorted out Bill

[Bills86e]

The day will come that I need the fan to come on and it won't,
and then I'll be putting a Third engine in it for her.

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by Bills86e

The car now that it is bled, no longer overheats or loses coolant
as it now will stay every day at the Halfway mark on the expansion tank, just where its supposed to be. no low speed fan has been
heard, I am nervous about that. Anyone ever get into the ECM/DME
and see "points"??? My guage is at 12 o'clock while driveing.

Glad to hear it is not loosing coolant anymore.

Now, make sure your radiator fan runs in low speed when called for, esp. you are in Hot Florida, when you get stuck in traffic.

I figure you have not done the DME input bypass yet.

[xxxJohnBoyxxx]

Originally Posted by Bills86e

The day will come that I need the fan to come on and it won't,
and then I'll be putting a Third engine in it for her.

Drive the car for about 20 minutes. Pull into your driveway, open hood and let it idle. Wait for the fan to turn on or the gauge to climb a hair above 12 to ensure that fan is working. I wired my fan with a switch so I can turn it on in the cabin, I do this for track racing and to cool the motor between runs

[Mallard]

have u checked the radiator isnt blocked?

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by Mallard

have u checked the radiator isnt blocked?

see post #1.

[bazar01]

Originally Posted by xxxJohnBoyxxx

Drive the car for about 20 minutes. Pull into your driveway, open hood and let it idle. Wait for the fan to turn on or the gauge to climb a hair above 12 to ensure that fan is working. I wired my fan with a switch so I can turn it on in the cabin, I do this for track racing and to cool the motor between runs

+1.
An override switch is great!
I was planning to do that but I want it to work in auto so anyone in the family can drive it without worrying somebody might forget to turn it ON.

[Bills86e]

I will get it from her and do that test. No one seems to know
for sure how & when it opperates, so I will try everything you
Gurus suggest. Thanks TI Guys!

[mugsy50]

do you know how to properly bleed the cooling system if so can you email me at eppelh1@earthlink.net with instructions

[cooljess76]

Originally Posted by mugsy50

do you know how to properly bleed the cooling system if so can you email me at eppelh1@earthlink.net with instructions

http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=27983

[Bills86e]

I had a hard time with mine. I used my old top water hose. I removed the top new radiator hose end and put the old one on
and filled both and held both hoses high as possible while filling with 50/50. The added water weight I think did the trick!

[Bills86e]

Originally Posted by Bills86e

I had a hard time with mine. I used my old top water hose. I removed the top new radiator hose end and put the old one on
and filled both and held both hoses high as possible while filling with 50/50. The added water weight I think did the trick!

THIS works EVERY TIME. Pour 50/50 into motor hose, you can blow
pressure to speed things up til coolant comes up the one foot long
extra hose you put on radiator top nipple. Elevation of these hoses
are paramount. This gets all air out of heater & engine. GREAT!

And is fast to achieve the result!
Bills86e

[3seriesbimmer]

I had this same issue and I saw it was over heating and my fan never came on. Replaced the fuse still never came on and it didn't blow the fuse. Flushed the coolant still overheated. It started to go away but I was taking pictures of it letting it idle, I got in the car and my radiator blew. Cracked the rad in half and pushed it back about 4 inches. I am currently working down the engine to see if it was the head gasket leaking.

[Bills86e]

Once your cap was removed from hot engine you got air in the system. It usually gets worse every time every time its opened. The fan sensor cannot operate in air at radiator top. Therefore it can not signal the fan to come on.
Air once in the system hides in the heater core, center of water pump impeller, & radiator top.
You can try shutting off the engine, when the gauge goes over 12 o'clock. This may let the air bubble in the WP impeller move out, and it might start circulating the coolant. Massageing the hoses while stopped then opening/closeing the air bleed valve on radiator top may get you home. (and do a propper bleed)

In your case, it OH and burst. Its a poorly engineered design, engine higher than radiator. Fan sensor at top (but on side) of radiator.

Understand that a gauge over 12 o'clock, the cooling system has air in it.