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Old 09-16-2011, 03:24 PM   #1
PaulM
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Default seat disassembly - replacing plastic clips

Full background - picked up a nice Ti (1995) which the PO already replaced the stock seats with black leather sport seats (electric). Bought the leatherique stuff to recondition and re-dye, and as usual the project is expanding.

Several seams are splitting, my first thought was to see if I can fix in place, but on further work I figured its better to remove the seats. So - out come the seats (after disconnecting battery - note that the seats are 1997 versions with pyro charge tubes but they have no disarm screw?). Now I can get at everything better.

Hey since they are out why not pull the cushions off to really allow for full access as well as probably swap the sides (put driver cushions and covers on passenger side and visa versa).

So now we finally get to the question - the bottoms are held on by two torx and two push pin/clips. No problem as the push clips are available for about 25cents (52108130678 "clamp" according to realoem). The question is about yanking the old ones out prior to seeing the replacements. Should I dremel the pin portion to keep from possibly cracking the plastic they poke through (not worried about breaking the pin but would like to avoid damage to the seat cushion plastic itself or plastic frame the "clamp" attaches to)? How are they inserted into the cushion? Do they thread in or is it another snap fit?

Half thinking of refitting the snap locations with inserts so the cushion would install with 4 screws.

Somewhat related question - any pointers on an appropriate hand stitch for the seams? Thinking of trying to fix them myself but I have yet to see any good diagrams of how it should be done. Maybe I'll see what an upholstery shop will charge - hopefully not to much when everything is apart

Any advise appreciated.
Thanks for reading this far
Paul
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Old 09-17-2011, 04:49 AM   #2
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got the seat apart - turns out it has heating elements. Anyone know what the resistance should read (I searched but found nothing)?

Also, in the seatback frame the lower zig-zag wire is broken at one corner? Anyone ever try to fix? A new frame back looks to list at $62 (not really that bad but I'd rather avoid if possible).

Should I start a new thread?

Thanks
Paul
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Old 09-17-2011, 05:31 AM   #3
wolferj-RIP
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Paul;

I have done exactly what you are working on now... Many times over lol...

I hand stitched the leather with a curved mattress needle. I used the existing holes and did a loop stitch with an all nylon thread. It is painstaking, but turns out really good.

For re-assembly, I did not use the OEM push clips, but a decent sized drywall anchor. The right size anchor will seat nicely into the hole that the push clip anchors in on the cushion side, allowing for a 4 screw setup vs. a 2 screw and 2 clip setup.

Don't know about the wiring loom resistance, sorry...

I am also unsure what you are referring to regarding the zig-zag wire... can you snap a picture?
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James 95 active w/leather interior and sport interior conversion, Vaders, full M-Tech exterior conversion. Now m50 swapped* Eibach sway bars, D2 Coilovers, Depo's w/AE's, blacked-out sides and grills, LeatherZ console and door armrests, 1 series starter button mod, and custom finished Style 5's <--- in this color! Named "Roddy": *M50 6 cyl. swap with fan delete, S50 cams and chip, AFE stage 2 intake, M3 clutch and 11.5 lb Fidanza flywheel, 3.15LSD, battery relocated to rear and complete custom exhaust. Sweet! 97 318ti sport, Alaska Blue, Contours, coilovers, Dove Vaders and custom black/grey interior named "Max" 95 318ti Active in Cosmos, S50 swap in progress... named "Pit" SUPPORT 318ti.org! CLICK THE LINK ABOVE! Hosting a forum like this is not free. 318ti.org is one of the best BMW forums on the web because it is member supported, not vendor supported. The cost to become a Supporter is a nominal $10.00... A YEAR! DO IT! NOW!
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Old 09-17-2011, 01:48 PM   #4
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Thanks for the advise, the drywall or similar technique looks to be a better solution vs the clips.

here is a picture of the frame - screwdriver pointing to the break. Ever see that on one of the seats you have redone? Not sure its worth screwing with to much since the whole back is all of $50.

Second pic is of the condition of the seat. Leatherique treatment has softened up the side bolsters nicely but the seat bottom seems to have a much thicker dye coating. Will do some sanding of the finish per leatherique instructions.

Thanks
Paul
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Old 09-17-2011, 05:20 PM   #5
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Never seen one of those broken before... I've seen the frame break, but not that piece... It should easy enough to replace that wire if you can find a seat at a salvage yard, but since a new one is relatively cheap...

Also, inspect the weld where the upper section attaches to the hinge point, that is a more common failure point. I need to repair my vader drivers seat, as it has a hairline crack on the weld on one side...
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James 95 active w/leather interior and sport interior conversion, Vaders, full M-Tech exterior conversion. Now m50 swapped* Eibach sway bars, D2 Coilovers, Depo's w/AE's, blacked-out sides and grills, LeatherZ console and door armrests, 1 series starter button mod, and custom finished Style 5's <--- in this color! Named "Roddy": *M50 6 cyl. swap with fan delete, S50 cams and chip, AFE stage 2 intake, M3 clutch and 11.5 lb Fidanza flywheel, 3.15LSD, battery relocated to rear and complete custom exhaust. Sweet! 97 318ti sport, Alaska Blue, Contours, coilovers, Dove Vaders and custom black/grey interior named "Max" 95 318ti Active in Cosmos, S50 swap in progress... named "Pit" SUPPORT 318ti.org! CLICK THE LINK ABOVE! Hosting a forum like this is not free. 318ti.org is one of the best BMW forums on the web because it is member supported, not vendor supported. The cost to become a Supporter is a nominal $10.00... A YEAR! DO IT! NOW!
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