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Old 03-07-2010, 05:15 PM   #1
Watchmyradical
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Default M50 swap problems

I recently finished a m50 (from a 93 325is) swap into a 95 m42 ti. The car throws an EWS code which i was told is normal? The car however struggles to start. It will make sputtering sounds while cranking over yet just wont start. On the rare occasion it does finally get going it idles fine and for the most part drives great. However it will sputter when getting on the throttle and eventually run smoothly. This leads me to think i have a fuel problem. When the engine was put it i used freshly rebuilt injectors. any help would be great, thanks.
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Old 03-07-2010, 05:26 PM   #2
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check the pump and other fuel components
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Old 03-07-2010, 05:36 PM   #3
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the fuel pump was recently switched, i have like 3 of them laying around. I guess I just need to replace the fuel rail and regulator and hope for the best.
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Old 03-07-2010, 05:38 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Watchmyradical View Post
the fuel pump was recently switched, i have like 3 of them laying around. I guess I just need to replace the fuel rail and regulator and hope for the best.
the worst thing you can do is to start throwing parts at it. Before that, pressure test the schrader valve and see how much pressure your getting. Plz do not start throwing parts at it
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Old 03-07-2010, 07:41 PM   #5
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May seem obvious, but did you use a new filter when you did the swap?
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Old 03-07-2010, 11:14 PM   #6
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the worst thing you can do is to start throwing parts at it. Before that, pressure test the schrader valve and see how much pressure your getting. Plz do not start throwing parts at it
hahahhah i see what you did there
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Old 03-08-2010, 02:15 AM   #7
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yes i put a new filter on it and plan on getting a hold of a fuel pressure tester from a buddy who works at a dealership.
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Old 03-08-2010, 02:04 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Watchmyradical View Post
I recently finished a m50 (from a 93 325is) swap into a 95 m42 ti. The car throws an EWS code which i was told is normal? The car however struggles to start. It will make sputtering sounds while cranking over yet just wont start. On the rare occasion it does finally get going it idles fine and for the most part drives great. However it will sputter when getting on the throttle and eventually run smoothly. This leads me to think i have a fuel problem. When the engine was put it i used freshly rebuilt injectors. any help would be great, thanks.
Here is my story, hopefully that is something here that can help you:

When I did my M50 swap, my engine was sitting on a stand in the garage for ~3years. When I installed it I went to start it and nothing, not even a sputter. I checked for fuel, couldn't find any traces on the plugs, however the pump was running and then injectors were receiving impulses from the DME, and I was receiving spark.

So I bled the air from the system by jumpering the FP relay and just letting it circulate fuel through the system to rinse out any crud/gum that may have accumulated in the fuel rail and on top of the injectors. Went to crank again and still nothing. At this point I was stumped, all of the essential elements were there and the car should at least be sputtering or something.

So a buddy and I got a can of the old fashioned starting fluid, he sprayed it directly into the MAF and I cranked. That got the enginer going believe it or not. After assisting with the starting fluid for a minute or two the engine was running on it's own. So I mixed some fuel injector cleaner with the gas and just ran the car for a while and eventually the crap that was gumming up the injectors was cleaned out and the car runs excellent now.

The fuel in the tank was like 8 months old too, and even though it didn't smell stale it probably had some water in it from condensation. So that too was adding to the starting and rough running problems.

The bottom line:
I think that if you have it running you 99% of the way there, it is probably just something simple like a little residual gum in the injectors. Try some FI cleaner and mix it a little strong and just get then engine running and let it clean out the FI system.
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Old 03-23-2010, 03:20 AM   #9
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The injectors are clean since they were rebuilt. I do believe that it may be an O2 sensor problem since there is an occasional O2 code being thrown. I think it would also justify the sputtering then the engine is under load and not when idling or a consistent cruising speeds.
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Old 03-23-2010, 04:13 AM   #10
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Fuel pressure regulator? (ask me how I know... ask Cedric how we both know...)
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Old 03-23-2010, 10:53 PM   #11
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I had a spare fuel rail and regulator sitting around. Swapped it out and made no difference. thanks for the help though.
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Old 03-30-2010, 03:02 AM   #12
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Hmm. I have seen many times either an AFM doing just that and I have seen bad gas do this also. I cant say I agree with the O2 sensor being the whole problem simply because the DME isnt looking at them or using them until they reach 600-700 degrees and go into closed loop. Usually takes 2-3 min. Or have you already got it running properly and im too late?
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Old 04-15-2010, 08:06 PM   #13
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no, still not running good, will start after a bit but still sputter. Has a new 02 and fuel filter. i am completely out of ideas.
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Old 05-05-2010, 07:55 AM   #14
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well i'm having a world of headache with my conversion.. M44 and i've put an M50 lump in it. won't even crank... charged the battery, tried all the ews by-pass tricks but have been told that isn't necessary - i'm gonna put an earth lead from the battery to the engine, if that doesnt' work mine's going to the dealers!!
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Old 05-05-2010, 10:59 AM   #15
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LittleNicky, did you reclocate your battery? if not, are you sure there isn't a powerwire that may be grounded instead of connected to the battery?

If your M44, then your OBDII, was your m50 engine OBDII or OBDI? that could be something to look into.
EDIT : I see your in the UK, so this statement may be off all together... did m44's come OBDI?

Your extra earth ground might be a good idea but highly unlikely to cure your issue...
I have 2 negatives running off my battery terminal, one runs to stock location inside the battery box, the other one runs down to the frame rail - along with the one that goes frame rail -> engine mount arm. Either way would work.
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