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Old 07-20-2009, 10:03 AM   #1
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Default Door Panel problems!!

hey whats up everyone? im experiencing some door panel problems on my 95' 318ti. can anyone help me out? like what i would need to fix it?
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Old 07-20-2009, 01:05 PM   #2
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use the search button
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Old 07-20-2009, 03:42 PM   #3
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LOL we don't even know what the problem is.
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Old 07-20-2009, 08:13 PM   #4
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well the door panel clips are breaking, causing the door panel to keep coming off. Its starting to become really annoying..
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Old 07-20-2009, 09:05 PM   #5
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http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7801
You need to replace the clips and usually glue the plastic standoffs to the panel. Some people have had success with Gorilla Glue.
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Old 07-20-2009, 09:19 PM   #6
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Thank you. hopefully i'll be able to do this haha
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Old 07-20-2009, 11:35 PM   #7
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2 part epoxy works also
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Old 07-21-2009, 12:10 AM   #8
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JBweld
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Old 07-21-2009, 12:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljess76 View Post
JBweld
That stuff rules!
It's holding my overflow to the radiator bracket together.
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Old 12-18-2009, 07:22 PM   #10
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Also industrial polyamide resin hot glue, not generic hardware store hot glue.
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Old 12-18-2009, 07:28 PM   #11
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Also industrial polyamide resin hot glue, not generic hardware store hot glue.
I think that's what they used at the factory.
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Old 12-19-2009, 12:52 PM   #12
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Superglue
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Old 12-19-2009, 01:05 PM   #13
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I think that's what they used at the factory.
I'm getting ready to do this when I get home on Tuesday. I've already bought "J-B KWIK" per the CJ Permanent Fix post (Thanks for the guide, CJ!). Is polyamide resin hot glue better? I'm guessing it's not, since the factory fasteners come off.
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Old 12-19-2009, 04:53 PM   #14
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I'm getting ready to do this when I get home on Tuesday. I've already bought "J-B KWIK" per the CJ Permanent Fix post (Thanks for the guide, CJ!). Is polyamide resin hot glue better? I'm guessing it's not, since the factory fasteners come off.
Honestly I couldn't tell you since I never used it. Well I might have used it when I was in the Navy. If it's what I think it is, we used to call it "elephant snot". But if it actually comes in stick form like the "hot glue" that I'm thinking of, then no it's something different. BMW530i probably knows since he's more likely able to compare the two. Either way, the polyamide resin hot glue is industrial which I'd imagine is probably difficult to find/acquire. The J-B KWIK can be purchased almost anywhere and is some pretty serious over-the-counter stuff. The work time is rather short though, so only mix enough to do maybe two of the clip holders. Put a big enough dab on the end of the piece so that when you press it into place, the JB weld will ooze out completely around the base. Then while it's still wet, I like to take the popsicle stick or cardboard aplicator(part of the JB weld package rolled up) and brush the excess JB weld back over the lip. If it's already started to cure and you can't spread it, don't worry you can always go back later and apply some JB weld over the base. This just gives it more surface to grip onto. Remember, it cures quicker than the package states, so only mix enough to do one clip holder first. If you think you're fast enough, then try mix enough for two. The key is to take your time, get it applied nice and evenly and make sure everything (door panel and clip holders) is ready before you mix the stuff. If it means having to mix the JB kwik for each clip individually, although more time consuming, the results will be better in the long run. This stuff is permanent, so you want those clips lined up perfectly. Once it cures, they're not coming off without ripping a big chunk of door panel off with it. Best of luck to ya, be sure to post your results

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Old 12-19-2009, 07:30 PM   #15
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Comparing the polyamide resin to the factory adhesive, I would sat there are some similarities, but clear differences (factory adhesive is same color but cloudy, polyamide is honey colored but clear).

The polyamide is definitely an industrial product and has some characteristics that make it a bit unfriendly for consumer applications (it is highly hydroscopic before heated).

I used it because I had it available to me for free and it is convenient to use. Since I haven't done this repair with the JB Weld, can't compare or contrast.
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