Cali roof motor wiring difference

[FalcoonnnnPUNCH]

Can someone explain to me the reason behind the wiring differences on these cali roof motors. The one with the white connector is my old motor, white connector went to the control switch for opening/closing roof. New motor doesn't have the white connector, only the two prong. I don't understand how it could work without the switch connector? Someone help me out here.

[John Firestone]

What month and year was your car built?

You should always give that when asking a question. Or put it in your profile. Thanks.

[BlackBMWs]

Originally Posted by FalcoonnnnPUNCH

Can someone explain to me the reason behind the wiring differences on these cali roof motors. The one with the white connector is my old motor, white connector went to the control switch for opening/closing roof. New motor doesn't have the white connector, only the two prong. I don't understand how it could work without the switch connector? Someone help me out here.

Different years, different motors. I suspect you can splice in your old harness to the new one if you can't get a match. I think there are at least three motor type configurations. (I have all three...) :

What is wrong with your old motor? cool:

[FalcoonnnnPUNCH]

Sorry, I have a 1996, I believe production month is October, I'll have to double check that though. I should be able to just transfer the switch connector to the other motor, just wanted to understand how the motor would have functioned without the switch. Thanks for the help guys. My old motor gears got stripped, apparently that's a common issue. I'm new to these cars so I'm learning.

[BlackBMWs]

Typically, one of the gears gets stripped, save the other one and the rubber spacer in-between. If you want, you can simply transfer the non- stripped gears to the original motor if it it still in good shape and both motors are used.

Clean out all the old grease and debris, put in new grease and test. Save the other motor and parts for a spare.

[FalcoonnnnPUNCH]

Any help in how to open the gear housing? I removed the four screws holding on the face plate, but am unsure how to remove the gear in order to remove the plate.

Also, looked it up. Production date is July 1996

[BlackBMWs]

Once you remove the four Torx screws, lift the plate with the metal drive gear. It may stick from not being apart for 20 years. Once you have it apart, note where the washers and gears go as far as placement and sequence. Take a few pics if you need to. The top gear will lift out with a little wiggling. The grease is all that is holding it. Next is a rubber coupling between the gears, then the bottom gear in the case.

If you want to swap gears in the motors, do the same on the other motor, clean the target motor very well as ther are pieces of the broken teeth in the grease, degrease with best quality grease (I use a lithium based semi clear grease like you use for bearings), reassemble back in the order you dissembled and test it all before you reinstall it.


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[John Firestone]

Originally Posted by FalcoonnnnPUNCH

Any help in how to open the gear housing? I removed the four screws holding on the face plate, but am unsure how to remove the gear in order to remove the plate.

Also, looked it up. Production date is July 1996....

Got it. The 1997 US ETM shows your car with a electromechanical sunroof that makes five connections inside the sunroof cassette. That would explain the extra connectors. The 1998 US ETM shows the 'ti had gone to an electronic controller with a motor that only needs two connections (and one connector) to that. I reckon your single-connector motor is from/for that newer sunroof.

[FalcoonnnnPUNCH]

Originally Posted by BlackBMWs

Once you remove the four Torx screws, lift the plate with the metal drive gear. It may stick from not being apart for 20 years. Once you have it apart, note where the washers and gears go as far as placement and sequence. Take a few pics if you need to. The top gear will lift out with a little wiggling. The grease is all that is holding it. Next is a rubber coupling between the gears, then the bottom gear in the case.

If you want to swap gears in the motors, do the same on the other motor, clean the target motor very well as ther are pieces of the broken teeth in the grease, degrease with best quality grease (I use a lithium based semi clear grease like you use for bearings), reassemble back in the order you dissembled and test it all before you reinstall it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So helpful. Thank you.
On my old motor, the drive gear didn't want to come out, I think maybe due to the fact that it is cracked. (see attached photos). I eventually got it out, but it brought the whole assembly with it. Inspecting my plastic gear sandwich, the teeth seem pretty identical on both gears, and from a purely visual inspection they look ok. You wouldn't happen to have a reference picture of a bad gear would you?



old motor drive gear shaft crack

new motor drive gear shaft

old motor gear

old motor gear sandwich

[FalcoonnnnPUNCH]

Originally Posted by John Firestone

Got it. The 1997 US ETM shows your car with a electromechanical sunroof that makes five connections inside the sunroof cassette. That would explain the extra connectors. The 1998 US ETM shows the 'ti had gone to an electronic controller with a motor that only needs two connections (and one connector) to that. I reckon your single-connector motor is from/for that newer sunroof.

Very cool. How'd you look that up? realoem.com?
Thanks for the info.

[John Firestone]

I consulted the U.S. Electronic Troubleshooting Manuals (ETMs) for 1997 and 1998. I bet the files section has something.

[FalcoonnnnPUNCH]

Originally Posted by John Firestone

I consulted the U.S. Electronic Troubleshooting Manuals (ETMs) for 1997 and 1998. I bet the files section has something.

:thumbs up: Thanks

[John Firestone]

You are welcome. I find and print out the relevant sections before I do a repair or mod – and add notes to them rather than mark up my paper versions.

[FalcoonnnnPUNCH]

Originally Posted by John Firestone

You are welcome. I find and print out the relevant sections before I do a repair or mod – and add notes to them rather than mark up my paper versions.

Good thinking. Where did you buy the paper/book version?

[John Firestone]

You could buy the paper Electrical Troubleshooting Manuals while the cars were still in production. Around 2000 or so, BMW NA scanned all their ETMs and put them on a pair of CDs – which we bought as well. I think all that disappeared when they put everything online and started charging for access.