318ti.org forum

Go Back   318ti.org forum > Technical, Maintenance and Modifications > Engine

Notices

Engine Tuneups, chips, wires, spark plugs.

.
» Recent Threads
The 318ti OBD-II engine...
10-19-2006 06:48 PM
Last post by Filiski120
04-24-2024 06:40 PM
210 Replies, 1,007,793 Views
Reply Share/Bookmark
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-07-2009, 03:07 PM   #16
J!m
Moderator
 
J!m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Bouncing off the rev limiter in CT!
Posts: 3,156
Vehicles
iTrader: (1)
Default

Just reading this now...
Also lookig into CarSoft, but probably buying the new (legal) version 7.3 direct from CarSoft for ~$500.00 as it is worth it to me...

Anyway, going back to the fuel pump off, I suggest you check this. ti's are famous for having failed fuel pumps, and in fact mine was replced twice under warranty (1998 model year).

Might be worth a shot, as a drop in fuel pressure might take a second for the DME to recognize and correct thrugh opening the injectors more, causing the surge.

Just thinking out loud for you...
__________________
"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"

Order Swap Manuals Here => http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12912

WolferJ- gone but not forgotten. R.I.P.
J!m is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2009, 10:45 PM   #17
stirlsilver
Member
 
stirlsilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 43
iTrader: (0)
Default

Thanks for the input guys. Since this has been brought back to life, you can ignore that error code that I mentioned in my first post. I cleared it and it hasn't come back so it was obviously a false error.

b.u.ti-ful - I'll check out the AC relay, but I doubt there would be anything wrong because the AC engages and disengages correctly when I push the button on the centre console. The thermo fan is stuck on because the 80 degree switch in the double temperature switch is always closed (checked with a multimeter when cold). So I simply need to get hold of a new switch. Wishing I did this before the AUD crapped itself against the USD!

J!m - Thanks for the info, I would have figured that if I had a failed fuel pump the car would stop completely. But a fluctuating pressure could definitely be cause of what I feel with the fluctuating RPM. What would be a good way to test this? Obviously a pressure gauge on the fuel rail would be the best way... but I don't think there is anywhere to fit one... and I don't have a gauge either.

I was thinking that the problem could be also ignition related? Leaking leads and what not?
stirlsilver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2009, 11:08 PM   #18
J!m
Moderator
 
J!m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Bouncing off the rev limiter in CT!
Posts: 3,156
Vehicles
iTrader: (1)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by stirlsilver View Post
J!m - Thanks for the info, I would have figured that if I had a failed fuel pump the car would stop completely. But a fluctuating pressure could definitely be cause of what I feel with the fluctuating RPM. What would be a good way to test this? Obviously a pressure gauge on the fuel rail would be the best way... but I don't think there is anywhere to fit one... and I don't have a gauge either.
there is a fitting on the rail that looks like an air fitting for a tire. The gage goes there. I don't know what they go for these days, but you might be able to rent one from NAPA or something too...

Quote:
Originally Posted by stirlsilver View Post
I was thinking that the problem could be also ignition related? Leaking leads and what not?
It could be- if you haven't tuned up the engine in a few years, a nice set of Magnecors and new plugs would be quite welcome under that hood. It certainly won't hurt the situation...
__________________
"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"

Order Swap Manuals Here => http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12912

WolferJ- gone but not forgotten. R.I.P.
J!m is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2009, 11:54 PM   #19
ATF
Senior Member
 
ATF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Stamford, CT <-> Boston, MA
Posts: 1,393
iTrader: (1)
Default

Sorry to go a little OT.. But WOW I'm surprised BF.c lets people talk about pirated software on their forum. People 'buying' Carsoft from folks of eBay, it really surprises me that nothing has happened.

/end of vent
__________________

BMWCCA #403399
2012 Mini Cooper S Clubman, 6-Speed
Loaded
2001 325xi, Winter Package, 5-Speed
Traded
1998 318ti, Active, Automatic, TOTAL LOSS R.I.P. 10/20/08
Bilstein Sport Shocks/Struts . H&R Sport Springs . Strut Reinforcement Plates . RSM Reinforcement Plates . Fogg Airbox . X-Brace . Bosal Brospeed Catback
ATF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2009, 12:28 AM   #20
J!m
Moderator
 
J!m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Bouncing off the rev limiter in CT!
Posts: 3,156
Vehicles
iTrader: (1)
Default

It is fairly common now, and even with a 'cracked' version, not without its problems.

The new versions have a USB dongle to activate the software, so you need the software, interface, cables AND the dongle key in your computer for it to work.

The got smarter than the hackers...
__________________
"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"

Order Swap Manuals Here => http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12912

WolferJ- gone but not forgotten. R.I.P.
J!m is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2009, 12:33 AM   #21
ATF
Senior Member
 
ATF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Stamford, CT <-> Boston, MA
Posts: 1,393
iTrader: (1)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by J!m View Post
The new versions have a USB dongle to activate the software, so you need the software, interface, cables AND the dongle key in your computer for it to work.

The got smarter than the hackers...
hahah for now. I've seen some apps with dongle emulators and virtual COM ports, it's only a matter of time. I'm actually messing around with the cracked version of 6.5 right now. I just wish I had a 20-Pin Diag connector. I've got an OBD-II reader from scantool.net that has an ELM323 processor. I wonder if it's compatible with Carsoft. I want to play with the features to see if it's worth buying the home version. Don't want to shell out all that money to find out it's nothing that I could've done w/ the OBD-II reader I already bought.
__________________

BMWCCA #403399
2012 Mini Cooper S Clubman, 6-Speed
Loaded
2001 325xi, Winter Package, 5-Speed
Traded
1998 318ti, Active, Automatic, TOTAL LOSS R.I.P. 10/20/08
Bilstein Sport Shocks/Struts . H&R Sport Springs . Strut Reinforcement Plates . RSM Reinforcement Plates . Fogg Airbox . X-Brace . Bosal Brospeed Catback
ATF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2009, 12:39 AM   #22
J!m
Moderator
 
J!m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Bouncing off the rev limiter in CT!
Posts: 3,156
Vehicles
iTrader: (1)
Default

Geting further off topic here...

BUT, the fully cracked version 6 with a good interface and decent cables will work reasonably well for most needs under the hood.

Fo someone like me, doing engine swaps, the need to do an EWS/DME allignment is an absolute necesity- and I want to do it for the E46 as well, which is more strict than the E36 system I am most familiar with. The dealers are really starting to hate seeing my face in their buildings, because if I'm there, most likley they will have absolutely no clue how to help me...

So, I'll be shelling out the $500 or so for the full 'home' version as I rarely, if ever, work on Mercs. The extra hundred or so for the 'pro' version just adds Merc and Smart to the capability of the Version 7 package.

It's totally worth it- most dealers here are over $100.00 and hour, and you are stuck with their schedule. Five hours adds up quickly at the dealer...
__________________
"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"

Order Swap Manuals Here => http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12912

WolferJ- gone but not forgotten. R.I.P.
J!m is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2009, 12:46 AM   #23
ATF
Senior Member
 
ATF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Stamford, CT <-> Boston, MA
Posts: 1,393
iTrader: (1)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by J!m View Post
Geting further off topic here...

BUT, the fully cracked version 6 with a good interface and decent cables will work reasonably well for most needs under the hood.
I've been eyeing an 16 Pin OBD II - > 20 Pin BMW Connector on eBay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OEM-B...motiveQ5fTools

Pin out shows that only 5 pins are used on each side of the connector. I'm going to go see if I can find a schematic for this USB/Serial OBD-II reader I've got and see if the pins are identical. Wish I hadn't left my USB-Serial adapter @ school though. This all may have to wait 'til I'm back @ school (18th of Jan) which isn't too far away..

Sorry to go OT!!
__________________

BMWCCA #403399
2012 Mini Cooper S Clubman, 6-Speed
Loaded
2001 325xi, Winter Package, 5-Speed
Traded
1998 318ti, Active, Automatic, TOTAL LOSS R.I.P. 10/20/08
Bilstein Sport Shocks/Struts . H&R Sport Springs . Strut Reinforcement Plates . RSM Reinforcement Plates . Fogg Airbox . X-Brace . Bosal Brospeed Catback
ATF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2009, 02:47 AM   #24
Stratacos
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: California, CA
Posts: 9
iTrader: (0)
Default

that's one heckuva program
Stratacos is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2009, 10:53 AM   #25
stirlsilver
Member
 
stirlsilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 43
iTrader: (0)
Default

Well, I did a little bit of trouble shooting. I tried unplugging the vacuum line off the fuel regulator to see if it made any difference to the rpm fluctuation... And it didn't make any difference. The engine did run a little rougher though, probably from running too rich. I didn't have the vacuum line disconnected for too long as I didn't want to fry the cat.

So next step will be to try and find a fuel pressure tester... looking on ebay, they are going for about $70... too expensive for a once off. Gonna have to try and find someone that has one.

I'm starting to think that it isn't ignition, but more fuel. Because leaking leads don't really cause rpm to fluctuate that much, maybe a miss fire every now and again. So fuel could be the ticket... just gotta figure out if it is the pump or injectors.
stirlsilver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2009, 02:06 PM   #26
J!m
Moderator
 
J!m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Bouncing off the rev limiter in CT!
Posts: 3,156
Vehicles
iTrader: (1)
Default

If the pressure is OK in the rail, I'd suspect dirty injector(s).

You can call around for a shop near you that cleans and blueprints injectors. Thjat will help ANY car perform better.

Then you have to be more vigilant with changing the fuel filter- I only drive 1/2 the year (due to snow) and I change mine every-other-year. If you drive year 'round and/or in vary dusty conditions, I'd suggest changing it every year, or perhaps more often if it is REALLY dusty.
__________________
"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"

Order Swap Manuals Here => http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12912

WolferJ- gone but not forgotten. R.I.P.
J!m is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2009, 10:55 AM   #27
stirlsilver
Member
 
stirlsilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 43
iTrader: (0)
Default

Well, started off with the easy stuff. I pulled out the plugs, and they seem perfectly healthy to me:


I did find a bit of oil in the hole for the number 1 plug though. Seems like the gasket is on the way out. But it was only a small amount of oil so I don't think I'll worry about it.

Speaking to a guy who has a bit of BMW experience here, he recons it is ignition system, not fuel related. Anyway, gotta go speak to him again since the plugs are fine... if it is ignition related that leaves leads and coils. I checked the connector onto the coil packs and it was fine.

I will get to the bottom of this though!
stirlsilver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2009, 12:59 PM   #28
stirlsilver
Member
 
stirlsilver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 43
iTrader: (0)
Default

Ok, I just looked up the price of a set of ignition leads. USD125! That is almost AUD200! Is this the price the rest of you are paying for these leads or am I simply looking in the wrong places?
stirlsilver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-12-2009, 02:37 PM   #29
J!m
Moderator
 
J!m's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Bouncing off the rev limiter in CT!
Posts: 3,156
Vehicles
iTrader: (1)
Default

That is why I ALWAYS suggest Magnecor wires.

Far superior to the stock ones, and the same or less cost as well.

Money well spent!

Check www.magnecor.com

PS if you find the coil pack itself is at fault, I have a good set available...
__________________
"Speed's just a question of money. How fast you 'wanna go?"

Order Swap Manuals Here => http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12912

WolferJ- gone but not forgotten. R.I.P.
J!m is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:22 PM.


.
Powered by site supporters
vBulletin Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1999 - 2024, 318ti.org
© vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2
[page compression: 121.66 k/144.58 k (15.85%)]

318ti.org does not warrant or assume any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any information or products discussed.